I havet compare HP cd-r vs Fujifilm cd-r; And i felt the HP was Little better! What cd-r do you feel is the best? If possible after comparing many?
If you mean sound quality, they're all the same. CDs are digital so every copy is perfect (assuming you're burning lossless copies)! If you mean durability, well, I don't really think CD-R's are made to be really "durable" anymore. So again I'd say they're all about the same. They're super cheap so buy a few brands and find what you like the best.
This. Verbatim were very decent too. I'm not sure if any of these are still being made, but I'm pretty sure that NOS supplies aren't too hard to find at this point. Do not buy no-name cheapies unless you only care about them working for less than a year. All of the above should still be playable for at least 15 years after burning.
What you buy with a brand name is barely an indicator of what actual disc you will get. You buy a Memorex, Verbatim, or Maxell spindle, and you get Taiyo Yuden or CMC Magnetics with various dyes...whatever was the cheapest to source that year. Blank Discs Not Created Equal DVD Identifier will read the media identification info off the blank disc.
Yes, especially in BLER (Block Error Rate). Try burning a MAM-A Gold Archive and something lesser. And see which one plays a year or two later. The lower the BLER, the better the disc will perform, and also it does affect playback, and therefore sound. These days, when I burn a disc, for a transfer client, quality media which will last, has low error rates, and I can depend on is important. MAM-A Gold Archive, Taiyo Yuden, and Verbatim (save for ValuLife), I can depend on.
I used TDK exclusively till they were no longer in the stores. I had no problem with those. I moved onto Maxell (which used to have all sorts of problems) and Memorex, and I don't have any problems with those. All of my CD-R's I've made over the past almost 15 years are fine. Now, ones from before that, that I was given (with content recorded on them), a lot of them had problems.
This is the correct answer. Ten years+ back one could usually find markers on how to find a good brand of CDR via certain web sites, or sometimes looking for "Made in Japan" on the spindle case. But TY is now out of the game, TDK long gone now (used to also be very good quality) and if memory serves Ritek is no longer considered too reliable. I assume CMC still = crap or have they improved? I haven't tracked CDR or DVDRs in a long time now.
I've been lucky. All of my CD-R's dating back to 2002 open and play perfectly, Memorex, Verbatim, TDK. A few of these are dark blue, forget the type of dye, but were said to last only about 5 years. However I do collect studio CD-R promos and "one off's" that somehow make their way to thrift stores. Some of these failed on the first attempt.. but just a note to self, must to pull these to transfer to HD, "Air Supply" in particular which contains alt mixes.
i guess i stick to hp cd-r is the best i have try now, i can found them sealed very cheap lest than a dollar, they are the best i have try; Taiyo Yuden seems to much expensive for me nowdays I have read that less velocity x is better because, the laser reads the cd slower so more accurated? ps. how is best to burn the music to the cd? using wav or iso file?
Big? No. But I have thought that I could heard some small differences. Frankly I always thought that the TY's sounded slightly better. But the MAM-As are supposed to last the longest.
Make sure you don't record the ISO file as data or you'll end up with a coaster your CD player won't be able to read.
I have used thousand's of Verbatim's and never had a problem with one of them. I also have always burned at the lowest speed possible, 1x until a few years ago, and now 4x.
A CD is read at 1x speed by an audio transport, which spins it at 300-600 rpm depending on the radial location on the disc, to maintain a constant linear speed at the audio sample rate. When writing a disc, instead there is a pre-cut groove in CD-R that has a wobble that encodes a frequency for speed tracking and time code. When the laser turns on and off, the faster the disc is spinning while "burning", the less sharp this transition between virtual pits and lands in the chemically-altered photosensitive dye, although LED lasers such as used in fiber optic communication can turn on and off 1000x faster than the data rate of CD. There are some drives that will burn the disc at a slower linear rate, which makes the bits on the disc groove physically longer while reducing play time, which can restore digital integrity on 80 minute blanks. Microsoft WAV file is a container for PCM audio, it must be 16 bit 44.1kHz, or idiot-proof CD burning software might try to apply its own resampling to get it there. ISO is a "disc ripping" format developed by Goldenhawk CDRDAO to contain all the data that is on a disc. One advantage to an ISO, it is a complete disc image, and with authoring tools, you can assemble the audio CD completely beforehand, the audio being composed of a single 74 minute gapless file, and write your own track and pregap index location for track numbers.