The Wood Glue vinyl cleaning method

The only concern that I consider legit is whether the glue might weaken or breakdown the vinyl. One glueing either has trivial or no damage to people's ears and once is all a record should ever need. At least it's not as wacky as green lining CD's.

 

Exactly. Finally someone who gets it. And in light of this possible issue, why use the glue method when there are plenty of guaranteed safe and effective techniques out there? The other problem, of course, is the residue that is there that we cannot see. For example, microscopic glue particles that build up and bond to the stylus, thus misshaping the tip and ultimately causing horrible damage to your precious vinyl. The glue will leave something behind. There's no question. What will the affects of that substance be on the vinyl and the stylus? Nobody knows. Obviously the glue removes dirt and thus makes records sound quieter. That part is indisputable and has been proven. It's what happens after that that is the concern.

 

Someone posted microscope pix after a glueing and found no dirt or glue specks, not that that's proof.

 

It was my understanding that they did find glue spots (tiny white specs), unless we're talking about different images.

 

Any glue particles will be dry and unlikely to bond to the stylus, and if by chance one does, it will come off like any dry particle that has landed on the stylus. It stands to reason that anyone who would go to such effort to have a clean record will also go to the same effort in maintaining the stylus.

 

Assuming that heated glue behaves the same way as other "dry" particles, which I would guess that it would not.

 

It's the same image. What people thought was glue or dirt was light reflecting off the vinyl. I wish there was a pre-glueing pic to compare to with the exact same lighting and angle.

 

Indeed. Again, though, this is only part of the problem. Do we have an ingredients list from the glue manufacturer's website? That would be a start.

 

From one glue website, "The exact formula and specific ingredients used in making Elmer's products are considered proprietary information, therefore, we cannot share those with you." They mention there are many including manmade chemicals, petroleum and natural gas derivatives, some products being acidic.

 

It would be an easy procedure for anybody with a knowledge of chemistry to do a test for acid levels in the glue. Vinyl, being made primarily from petroleum (which comes out of the ground), likely has some level of alkaline in it. Perfect match.

 

My Erikeeper says that its PH is 3, if that says anything to anyone...

 

I have a 1955 1st pressing of Blue Note 1501, Miles Davis, it's the first 12" LP blue note ever pressed. Plays as a VG+ even though I've never cleaned it. I bought it earlier this year. It is a bit grubby. Perhaps I should do a glueing and post some pictures… not sure if I'd calm any fears or cause someone to have a coronary.

 

The glue is PVC. Poly VINYL carbonate or whatever it is. Basically the same material as a vinyl record so it can and won't leave residue. That's my understanding.

 

The glue is water soluble, very likely not of oil-sourced pvc.

 

Forgive me if this question has already been answered, but would the wood glue work on a 78?

 

Old 78s are a different product entirely, being made of shellac and not a vinyl compound.

 

I've had negative results from using even plain water on a 78.

 

Holy crap! Night and day!

 

This is satirical, right?

 

Titebond II is the brand most people (I've spoken to) use. It is a polyvinyl acetate, which is the same stuff you lick to seal an envelope. I am not at all worried about licking envelopes (Seinfeld episode notwithstanding), so I'm even less worried about occasionally using this stuff to clean an exceptionally dirty record that has not responded to other methods.

Anyone know the chemical makeup of cleaners people use in their RCMs? I'm willing to bet wood glue is no more toxic or dangerous than anything else people here might be using.

 

Good point.

 

That's a pretty good demonstration. The glue removed an entire layer of surface noise. The pops or clicks that were leftover is the condition of the record. I doubt any cleaning method or machine (ultrasonic) would remove them.

 

Saved a crackly copy of Jackson Browne's For Everyman. It was almost not tolerable before. It sounds much better now. My only advice is to make sure you apply the glue evenly. I did not and there were a few globs left over after the peel. I removed carefully. Not a bad way to rescue a dollar bin find. (Cheap Experiment) Another vote for Titebond II as well, Cheers and good luck.

 

Apologies for the delayed response, March has been an insane month

When that happens, I glue again. The dried glue will fuse seamlessly with the new. I panicked when I had that happen on one of my Cheap Trick at Budokans (I have four. Don't judge.) No problems at all after that.

And as a general word of warning, wait until the glue is 100% clear. There may not be slivers left over after the peel, but there could be barely visible globs. Fortunately, the first several I did were tested with a cheap cart. Whoops.

 

I absolutely love this. Never heard vinyl so quiet. Now, there's only the steady sound of needle in groove on DD platter. Which was never even audible with some much wishy washy cracklies.

It DOES make me want a zeroStat gun, though---the amount of static that's generated by removing the dried glue skin is insane. Maybe if I get one of those antistatic grounded to the wall plug mats used for computer work to do the peel on? Anyway....that aside...wow. And, I have to say--it ALSO seems to sound better. Deeper bass? From cleaning? I mean--they were already formula/wipe clean....so "from "cleaner"? Huh. Sold.