New Rega RP3 Turntable *Help Needed*

This is frustrating and its not even my turntable. I would love to examine the thing. Its either something really simple - or not simple. The geometry here is very simple but there are a number of surfaces and axis at play. I would pull the sub-platter and ball bearing, clean the bearing well out carefully with clean q-tips dipped in alcohol (blot them first before inserting) then re-oil the well (q-tip dipped/blotted in the oil), ball, and sub-shaft, then reinstall.

 

For some reason REGA has never been very good at packing their tables for long distance transit (I own 3)

Anyone here remember/familiar with the all too common broken tone arm finger lifts?

When Steve Lauerman was the REGA's importer/distributor he told me about 20% of the tables arrived, or eventually would up, damaged in some way

REGA's packing for their tables was crap; don't know about now, but it sounds like it may still be

The glaring mistake was putting them in the carton with the arm on the plinth and the dust cover on the table!

Finally got a good one from Steve directly (God rest his Soul); my dealer didn't seem too concerned about it

It took 3 tries to get a table that wasn't flawed

I think Global Logistics had a lot to do with it too (that's who REGA used back in the 90s)

Analogman

 

This is truly bizarre! There are so few moving parts - those that there are being very simple - and absolutely nothing that isn't user serviceable platter/sub-wise on a Rega that I can't for the life of me think what ails your TT if you can't! When assembled correctly the plinth should be level and thus the sub should also be level, which in turn necessarily dictates that the platter should also sit level and ready to support and spin the record perpendicular to the stylus - easy! If they don't and you can't see any obvious obstruction, then I am at a complete and utter loss - poltergeist activity?

 

The one TT I'd never consider for replacing my vintage one when/if it gives up the ghost is a Rega. Been here for 3 months and I've already seen so many ¨Help with new Rega TT¨ threads it's frightening.

 

Looking through this thread again, the problem seems to still be that the platter isn't sitting flat on the subplatter. After all, the OP asked how much pressure it should take to install the platter. The answer is none. The OP also asked how much space should be between the platter and subplatter. Again, the answer is none. But I guess that's not the point of this thread. This thread is apparently about how nobody would ever buy a Rega.

 

There was never a problem with REGA platters "wobbling" until the cheaper models' with MDF platters came along

Cannot explain why it now seems to have migrated over to the glass models as well..........

REGA's quality control has suffered the past 5 years or so I will admit (based on what I have read)

I own 2 Planer 3s and 1 Planer 25

I have checked both with a dial indicator (one I use for setting up and building engines)

All 3 where dead on true

I don't have an answer for you but this problem does not in any way diminish the fact that a REGA is one of the best deals going in turntables

All it does "prove" is that REGA is definitely suffering a quality control issue at present (and who knows how many, or how few, are suffering from this?)

Bad batch of parts? A less than stellar employee currently on the line?

Hardly an indictment of the product or the brand, rather an unfortunate situation for now (and the unlucky folks who received a dud)

Name one company of manufactured goods that has not had this happen to them at least once?

They've all had it happen, most notably of late is JBL and Klipsch

And the mexican made SHUREs with their cock eyed cantilevers and diamonds glued on side ways, even dead channels right out of the box

Oh yeah, and what about the exploding cell phone batteries

It happens and unfortunately it's going to happen more often in today's times as demand increases and good help becomes more difficult to find, especially for companies that sell product in BIG numbers

Roy will fix it, rest assured

Welcome to the "New World Order"

REGA will stand behind it and make it right

Analogman

 

Thank you for the answers Bob. Now this is what I need to hear. When I took the platter in to the dealer, he put the subplatter on and had to really muscle it down to be flush. If the experience was the same with both spindles, shouldn't that mean that the problem is the hole in the platter? I think I need to return this one...

 

It's got to be the hole. Can you take a precise measurement of the diameter in mm?

 

That's because they're one of the largest producers of TT's. More out there = more complaints.

 

I don't have a caliper, but could I eye it out accurately enough with a tape or ruler?

 

Part of the problem lies in the design and process of the sub-platter. It is a design and process flaw. The sub-platter is made from injection molded plastic. It is not machined, it is used as it comes out of the mold.
Unfortunately if the perpendicular relationship between shaft and top of sub-platter are not 90 degrees right on the money, any deviation is going to be multiplied by the diameter of the platter. A sub-platter that is a little bit off could make the edge of the platter quite a bit off.
Also unfortunately is that injection molded parts cannot maintain geometric precision like a machined part could. If the sub-platters are off and not truly perpendicular to the shaft, then a fairly big batch of them are likely to have similar issues.
For cripes sake a machined aluminum sub-platter- a'la the groovetracer- could be mass machined on a CNC screw machine and cost the manufacturer (easily) less than $5.00.

 

I would love to have somebody look at this thing too. I think I need to see if the problem is the platter hole...if I have to put the platter on the subplatter while they are on the plinth, it seems that I shouldn't have to force it to sit properly. That will be way too much to do every time I want to change speed. I don't want to do too much to this thing in case they say I can't return it or something.

 

hhmm, if you are saying the platter has to be pressured / forced past the spindle of the subplatter - thats bad. That may be the issue. (could either be the spindle or the platter hole.) The platter should drop nicely onto the subplatter and sit flush on it.

 

I'm thinking a ruler would be fine, with the idea that the error would be large enough to see on that sort of scale.

 

The subplatter is not likely the issue, given that a replacement was sent and it also did not fit.

 

Actually the sub-platter is three parts: the molded body, a machined steel shaft, and the spindle which is a cap fit over the shaft. However that means there are three separate axis all of which must be lined up perfectly so they run linear and concentric. Thats pretty easy to do, but of course the better way is to simply machine the whole shebang from one piece of stock. Bingo: one single axis.

Since this is the practice for their TT's beyond the RP6, I wonder what the actual cost difference is. When examining the cheaper subplatter there are about as many steps in the process. The wages differential between a machine operator (i.e. semi-skilled, non-certified machinist) versus a journeyman machinist could be the factor. The sub-platter assembly could be assembled using jigs and semi-skilled labor.

 

Just a reminder! Not all Rega TTs leave the factory with issues. I have two and they are fine. Ask for a replacement if you have no confidence in the one you just bought.

 

Can the bearing be sitting incorrectly? Is that something that happens?

 

And i have a good one too. Got it 10 months ago an rp6. No wobble

 

The bearing is in the bottom of the "hole". it seems to me there is some defect with your table.

I have a RP6 and a RP1

 

The shaft itself my not be perpendicular to the plinth body (i.e slightly tilted). The bearing itself may not be spherical. The surface it touches (the bottom face of the shaft) may not be perfectly perpendicular, or, the bottom face of the bearing well may not be. Or there could be dirt/debris in it. Less likely but you never know. In short, there are a variety of factors that can make a spindle wobble.

But it seems more & more like it may be something about the platter, or perhaps the hole in it.

 

I have an RP3 for 3 months with no problems.

 

As long as the platter does not fit onto the spindle without force, and two subplatters have been tried, there's no way the subplatter or bearing are anywhere near as likely an issue as platter.

 

Is your platter glass or MDF

Sorry, I'm not well acquainted with all the new offering since the "Planar" days

Analogman

 

interesting. IMHO these are minor issues and will probably still be there with the rest of the table 30 years from now.