Broke tonearm wires, what to do now?

Trying to change the Ortofon 2M Red on my Pro-ject Carbon Debut to Ortofon OM30 and I broke the tonearm wires, not sure how to proceed with repair?

I have to imagine that the wrong repair will cause issues with the sound of the turntable? Should these just be soldered back and if so where would I take it to get it done? I am in the Chicagoland area and have called a couple of mom and pop repair shops that say they can handle it but I want to make sure it gets done right.

Is this going to cost more than its worth? My plan B would be to sell it (hoping someone with the ability to fix it would buy it) and go back to my old Harman Kardon T45 (which I have changed cartridges out on multiple times without issue including yesterday in all of 10 minutes). Any input or help is appreciated, thanks.

 

Can't Google a USA source, but the inner-cables are not at all expensive in the UK £11
https://www.henleydesigns.co.uk/Tonearm-Inner-Cables-p583
Maybe order a set at take them & the turntable to the repairer, I know I would as soon as melt them as solder them.

 

So those are replacement wires with the ends already attached? With no delicate soldering does that become a DIY job or is it major work to pull the wires? Maybe doesnt matter, seems they dont ship outside the UK...

 

Replacing tonearm wires is no fun. There's usually a lot of disassembly and delicate soldering. Then there is the turn at the pivot. That can be a bear. If you haven't replaced tonearm wires before, I'd get somebody else to do the job. I know Sounds Classic in Rockford could do the work but there must be somebody in Chicago who could change out the wires. They'd be a lot closer to you. In fact, I'd check with Path Electronics in Arlington Heights. They might know of a US source for the wires plus they'd be only half the way to Rockford.

We've all done what you've done, Colin. I can't tell you the number of cartridge clips I've re-soldered over the years.

 

Actually I am Peter The Rockford place is a 2 hour drive and Arlington Heights is a 1 hour, I don't mind either as I just want the job done right, are both places capable of doing it right? Should I try and find new tonearm wires first or just drop off an let them handle? And the big question is what should I expect to pay (just want to make sure I am not spending $300.00 to repair a $399.00 turntable)?

Greatly appreciate the advice, thanks.

 

You're welcome, Peter. Ask for Marc at Path. link

Maybe somebody else will chime in with a good place in Chicago to get work like this done.

My guess is the labor would be $100 ±3dB, with the wires around $30 with shipping. Well worth doing.

 

britaudio (located in NC) will rewire tonearms. The only issue is they charge around $200 to do this service. Is it really worth it to spend 50% of the cost of a new table (using current prices on the Carbon Debut)?

 

If you wanted to attempt it on your own you can purchase cables through Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Centimeters-C...&qid=1425397406&sr=8-4&keywords=tonearm+cable
If you're handy with this sort of thing, for $25 it might be worth a try. I would expect to pay $200 or so for the labor at a repair shop.

 

Would there be instructions or anything showing how to do it? The one end is obvious but what does the other end attach to and how much of my unit needs to come apart to accomplish this?

 

From the picture it looks like cables are broken at the end? Or are they broken also inside the arm?

 

No right at the end, broke trying to pull the end connector off. I still have the connectors and it seems like if you just heated the solder they could be fixed but I am not sure if just resoldering the ends on will affect the audio quality?

 

No it will not effect anything if the cables are long enough to be soldered to the connectors. But doing this soldering is not that easy if one is not used to this type of work. Take the TT to someone that knows how to do the soldering, and it will be an easy fix.

 

It'd be worth it to me, especially since I've upgraded to the acrylic platter and have a speed box s, which may or may not work with a different TT. The real price I have invested in my carbon isn't $399, but $657.

 

From the picture it looks as if all of the connectors came off. If the wire is still in the connector it will be difficult to reuse them. If the connectors were crimped on, it will be next to impossible to reuse them. I would expect they were crimped.
I'm sure you could find new connectors but, as stated above, working with them in that cramped space is a pain. One slip and you are in trouble.

How maneuverable is that arm?

 

I've repaired Pro-Ject connections, before. It's easier than rewiring, IMO. Get a 3rd hand device to hold the clip. Thread the wire through the loop and wrap it over. Hold it there with a hot soldering iron. Apply a dot of solder. You have to expose the wire before you do this. I held mine in the flame of a lighted match to burn off the plastic insulation.

 

I've done it before as well. The Pro-Ject tonearm wire is like damn spiderweb. Incredibly easy to break off. Bob's recommendations are spot on. I like his idea for get the insulation off to expose the wire. I found that part to be the most difficult.

 

Anybody with basic soldering skills can do this. It's a cinch. Its won't affect your sound either. Anyone who tells you that is selling you something. If you can't solder, find a buddy who can. I would say it's a about a 15 minute job and an easy one. I used to fret about crap like this until I learned to solder, now I don't bad an eye when this stuff happens. I've broken off these connectors many times and plopped them right back on. Nothing to sweat about. You don't know anyone with a soldering iron? Forget about using all new wires, THAT isn't easy. All you need is someone with a pair of fine wire strippers and an iron! Or as someone said, you could melt the covering a bit, even with your iron. I'd say you could probably reuse the clips you have, too, but a picture would help determine that. Those actually look like the robust type of tonearm wire.

 

I'm not sure I'd be so sanguine about making my first soldering project cartridge clips. I started soldering when I was in grade school and never stopped. Still, I didn't become a good solderer until my 20s. For me at least, it took years to figure it out, which still seems strange as it looks so simple.

It's like dancing. Anyone can dance but to dance well, that takes years of practice.

Agreed if the clips can be resoldered, that option should be considered. I'm not familiar enough with Pro-ject arms to know if resoldering the clips is a possibility. I'd just get someone else to do it if I was the OP.

 

I did this to one wire on my table a while back. I had it repaired locally - $20 total for the solder repair and a new clip.

 

The clips are able to be soldered I know that. There is still a drop of solder on them, I can probably breathe on it with a soldering iron while the clip and wire are touching and it would be secure. I have lots of soldering experience but nothing this small and delicate so I will take it somewhere. I was mostly worried that it would negatively affect the sound so if it will not I am sure this is fixable, thanks for the replies and advice.

 

Found a guy in Chicago willing to do it for around $80, says its time consuming to work with such small wires, I pickup next week. FYI Path in Arlington Heights would not take it as they said they are not authorized to work on Pro-ject turntables (they were not very nice about it either)....

 

Ok got it fixed, all wires soldered back, OM30 is nothing short of spectacular.

Problem though, I cannot get the tracking force set right, it wants 1.25-1.5g but the most I can get is about 1.10g with the counterweight all the way in? Do I need a heavier weight to match the lighter OM30? Where and what do I get?

 

You'll need a lighter weight.
I believe with the 2M the Debut Carbon will have come with the 55g, you will need the 50g for cartridges 4.5g to 6.0g (I think the OM30 is 5g).

Weights
Model Numbers:
50g Counterweight = 1 940 875 080
55g Counterweight = 1 940 875 008
65g Counterweight = 1 940 875 000
75g Counterweight = 1 940 875 001
Strangely the Needle Doctor site says the 55g is good for 4.5 to 8.5 which you've just proved wrong. Above is per the UK dealer/importer https://www.henleydesigns.co.uk/Counterweight-Chart-c604#Pro-Ject Debut Carbon

 

Thanks, any idea where I can order? ND does not appear to have the 50g?

Can I tape a penny or something on until I get right one?

 

Can do... In the past I've borowed tungsten fishing putty from my neighbour.