Levelling my turntable

Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by richbdd01, Apr 18, 2015.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. richbdd01

    richbdd01 Forum Resident Thread Starter

    Location:
    London
    Hi guys

    Last year when i got back into vinyl, i bought a bubble level off either Amazon or eBay if my memory serves me correct. It was about a fiver and i thought it did the job...or so i thought.

    I was listening earlier and things didnt sound quite right and i checked it and it was quite a bit out. It has a tendency to become unlevel and i constantly check to get it optimum. Im just wondering if this would be an issue with the bubble level itself...do they vary in accuracy? Alternatively (and i hope it isnt!) it could be the springs changing slightly on my turntable?

    Also, what effect would it have on the sound?

    Also can anyone recommend a reasonably priced but accurate level that would be reliable?

    Thanks for your help guys. Im having one of those bad evenings with sound and wondering if this is an issue?

    Cheers

    Rich
     
  2. WntrMute2

    WntrMute2 Forum Resident

  3. The Pinhead

    The Pinhead KING OF BOOM AND SIZZLE IN HELL

  4. FLEMKE

    FLEMKE Senior Member

    Location:
    CROOK COUNTY IL
  5. blakep

    blakep Senior Member

    As a fellow Michell owner (Gyrodec) I think using a small circular bubble level would be time consuming at best and problematic at worst.

    Any 8"-9" torpedo level is ideal for the job. Level from side to side, then from front to back, then fine tune both ways and you're good to go. Very easy with a Gyro or Orbe and any decent sub $10 torpedo level will do the job.

    I use an older Stanley, something like this should be very good for the job:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-43-...992?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa292c590
     
    willboy, Aftermath and utahusker like this.
  6. richbdd01

    richbdd01 Forum Resident Thread Starter

    Location:
    London
    Just seen the VPI crosscheck level for a very reasonable price...would this be considered sufficient?
     
  7. Robert C

    Robert C Forum Resident

    Location:
    London, UK
    Should one level the plinth or the platter?
     
  8. The Pinhead

    The Pinhead KING OF BOOM AND SIZZLE IN HELL

    Platter.
     
    Robert C likes this.
  9. dcottrell6

    dcottrell6 Forum Resident

    Location:
    Eastampton, NJ
    That's the one I have and it works very well.
     
  10. adamdube

    adamdube Forum Resident

    Location:
    Elyria, OH USA
    Yes, level the platter. Got an Iphone.....the built in level is pretty darn accurate. Just do it with any case off
     
  11. Analogman

    Analogman Well-Known Member

    If the table is built accurately (solid plinth, like a REGA) they should both be the same
    Main bearing and the tonearm share the same plane

    Things have the potential to get a little dicey with a "T-bar" or suspended type, but even then, theoretically, if built accurately the main bearing should be true to the mounting spot or board for the arm, on any type or design table

    There are other designs as well (where everything is "mounted" eccentrically, but that's another story), but the "trueness" should translate to all surfaces of a well built machine, i.e.: they all need to agree

    If it's not, and your arm doesn't offer adjustable azimuth then your table has an inherent flaw

    This can also be a problem with tables in the middle to lower price range from the '70s and '80s; the plinth or chassis was made entirely of injection molded plastic and may not be "true", either since new or a result of the effects of time on plastic...................again, if no factory azimuth adjustment is available, or the platter (main bearing) and arm just can't agree, it's time to get out the shims (and start thinking creatively)

    I always check, compare and make certain that the cartridge mounting surface and the platter are in agreement as well as cantilever (tip) alignment, regardless of deck type

    And all of this only works with the assumption that the platter and other parts are properly made, that both "top" and "bottom" mounting surfaces are parallel and remain equidistant from one another throughout the critical planes
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2015
    Robert C likes this.
  12. jupiterboy

    jupiterboy Forum Residue

    Location:
    Buffalo, NY
    I have a couple of those white plastic bubble levels and they are all different. Maybe one of them is right.
     
  13. BuddhaBob

    BuddhaBob Forum Resident

    Location:
    Erie, PA, USA
    iPhone here also. Not messing with bubble levels any more. Compared the iPhone to various bubble and carpenter levels, the thing is dead-on accurate and much easier to read. You can lay it flat for a bubble-style circular indicator and numeric reading or on any edge for a level line and numeric.

    I'm sure Android has a similar feature or available app.
     
    rtrt likes this.
  14. Paul K

    Paul K Senior Member

    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    I have had nothing but inaccurate headaches from them!
    What one were you using?
    I tried. Oh I tried. And then I had to spend about a half hour correcting the mess on the target using a spirit level!
     
  15. moon unit

    moon unit Forum Resident

    Location:
    Detroit
    I first used the bubble levels but as jupiterboy said they all read differently. I then used a Stanley torpedo level as blakep uses, but when I bought it I checked all the levels on the rack and but 2 read differently, placed on the exact same surface in the exact same spot. I bought one of the two that read the same but when I got home I realized I got a different reading from just swapping the sides. Lastly, I bought a 10" Stabila level (the one without the magnets) and when I checked them at the store they all read the exact same so I was satisfied that they were accurate. My friend's dad owns a machine shop so he checked it against their megabuck level and it read the same.

    It may be overkill (or is it anal? :)) but I am now 100% sure that I am getting a correct reading. It is made of aluminum but it's not very light so that may cause a problem with suspended turntables.
     
    Gumboo likes this.
  16. Paul K

    Paul K Senior Member

    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Ok then!
    What are the accurate levels?
    Manufacturers you can trust!
     
    Guildx500 likes this.
  17. nm_west

    nm_west Forum Resident

    Location:
    Abq. NM. USA
    The best way is to bring a known accurate level with you to compare with the one you're interested in buying.
    It's a crapshoot when buying bubble levels.
     
  18. utahusker

    utahusker Senior Member

    Torpedo has been working for me for many decades.
     
  19. ghost rider

    ghost rider Forum Resident

    Location:
    Bentonville AR
    I can say for sure this level will be damn accurate.

    I just got one of these and there is a little guess work when you look at the bubble. I just check my results with a laser and there is a little guess work with a laser too because you eyeball the center of the laser and the AT bubble was good to less than 1/32 of an inch. How perfect do you need to be?
     
  20. JBryan

    JBryan Forum Resident

    Location:
    St Louis
    You can check any level by placing it on a flat surface (the more level the better) and use a piece of tape and/or pen mark its exact position. Note the bubble's position relative to the graduation marks and then turn the level 180 degrees. If the bubble lines up with the same graduation, then the level is accurate. If not, find a better level.

    My favorite levels are the precision machinist levels made by Starrett. I have a small one for the armboard and a larger one for the plinth and platter but they are fairly heavy and aren't easy to use with suspended tables. One advantage to the machinist levels is that they are adjustable and can be calibrated and will highlight any deviation from level - a hair's width off will move the bubble significantly (.005" per foot accuracy). This is almost certainly overkill and its a real pain getting the plinth, platter and board perfectly flat but it offers me peace of mind. I also have a cross level (by Starrett) that I keep on the plinth to monitor the level and its fairly accurate but not nearly as precise as the machinist levels.
     
  21. BuddhaBob

    BuddhaBob Forum Resident

    Location:
    Erie, PA, USA
    It's a 5s. I pull the case and it works great. Before that I had a 4s and used a bubble level app within Appzilla (paid app).

    Early iPhone 5's had a hardware issue with the level. There weren't many but could you have one of those?
     
  22. Paul K

    Paul K Senior Member

    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Ah!
    Mine is still 4G. Hmmmmm...
     
  23. Vinyl Archaeologist

    Vinyl Archaeologist Forum Resident

    second stabila - I didn't compare but its seems like a fairly precision tool
     
  24. BrewDrinkRepeat

    BrewDrinkRepeat Forum Resident

    Location:
    Merchantville NJ
  25. Tony Plachy

    Tony Plachy Senior Member

    Location:
    Pleasantville, NY
    As long as your platter is flat the VPI cross check level will work better than a bulls eye level. FWIW, I got my VPI TNT before the days of the cross check. VPI recommended using a good 12" level checking the level of the platter perpendicular to the long and then the short side of the plinth. That is exactly what I have done for over a decade and have never had any problems. VPI specifically recommended not to use a bulls eye level.
     
    hi_watt likes this.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

molar-endocrine