Here's a video of the plinth for my new table getting milled. Looking forward to seeing it continuing to come to life.
May as well post this here. My trusty '80s BSR linear tracker is back in service, after being out of commission since last winter. The speed control had become unstable, and my hunch was the main motor bearings had given out (it uses a very wimpy Hitachi motor to drive the platter). I invested $16 on eBay for a NOS replacement motor, and after spending a few hours on the workbench for some soldering, remounting and calibration, I'm happy to report the table is back to its old self again. Obviously, this isn't my main table - it resides atop the Rotel quadraphonic receiver in my basement workshop - but I have to say it really performs way above its class. The cartridge is actually a pretty decent modified Audio Technica P-mount, with a Jico elliptical stylus. The linear arm gives it an advantage over comparable cheapo rigs. Very clear top end, no trace of sibilance. The platter is reasonably silent and stable (provided the motor is in good condition). Currently enjoying some quadraphonic Shostakovitch...
Not sure how "Sonata" got changed to "Rosetta," but the cartridge is a Grado Statement Sonata (0.5mv)
This is my everyday turntable. Its a Dual 1229 that I picked up at Goodwill. It was sent to Fix my Dual out in Iowa for a refurb, and then we made a custom base for it. It has a Denon DL-160 cartridge on it. I'm wondering if I should have the lip around the top of the base sanded down or leave it as is. Probably leave it. One thing I plan to do when I get some time is super polish the platter.
Here's the turntable and arm I got a year ago, after much research, auditioning, and waiting for the perfect machine for me to come along. Couldn't be happier! Kuzma Stabi M with 4-Point Tonearm and CAR-50 Cartridge. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8a2ssf213ks0eyk/DSC00311s.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/knr2m3ewzpgzlzd/DSC00314s.jpg?dl=0
I can't seem to get the images to appear in this thread from the dropbox links. Clicking on them takes you there, however.
My 23 year old Rotel RP-855 sitting on a homemade sandbox. Replaced the stock arm and feet with a Rega RB300 and Trans-Fi Audio spikes. Cartridge is a Denon DL 110. The piece of stainless steel covers the BIG original arm hole, which was Linn spec. The above two mods lift the sonics a step or two up the ladder from the original unit, which already sounded pretty decent. M
If you would be so kind, could you explain the construction and details about the sand box? Lovely table BTW!
Here's my Garrard 301, with Vinylista plinth and Alfred Bokrand modified Ortofon AS-309. Still has a way to go, but its at the stage where its pretty to look at at least! (If you noticed the M44G in the Technics headshell, that's just so I can balance the arm. I'm not going to bring it to the club to get the crowd on their feet or anything)
Latest upgrade 'SDP' - Special Decoupling Platter with Micro Seiki Post Extensions modified by Mirko (ClassicTurntables).
Thanks You can use a number of suitable materials - I chose 3"x 1" softwood for the frame and 15mm plywood for base-plate and top-plate, 4 rubber based isolation feet for support, and what we in the UK call silver sand (commonly used for improving heavy soil structure in the gardens), it is denser thus heavier than say builders sand. Many moons have passed since I made it, but as I recall I first cut the base plate to required size then the frame to suit. All four frame joins plus base- plate edges were pinned and bonded with wood glue. If you take a close look at the two visible corner joins in my photo you can see that they are merely straight edge to edge joins, which are fine, but I would have preferred mitred corners as they look much nicer but unfortunately were beyond my limited DIY skills. When the frame was finished I cut the top-plate approx. 6mm less than both inner frame dimensions. This is a MUST as you want a couple of mm clearence to stop the base plate contacting the frame. A useful tip is to line the box with what we in the UK call clingfilm - its the thin tacky polythene stuff used for sealing open food containers etc. Cut it big enough to entirely seal the sand in once you've filled the box. This stops any sand escaping and finding its way into the turntable workings. In my photo you can see a small brass hook in centre of base-plate, this enables easy removal of the top-plate, which I had to do several times when trying to level the sand. Hope the above is decipherable - let me know if need clarity or further advice.
Not quite perfect...just spotted one obvious mistake in my post - the brass hook is in the top not base-plate as stated. Not that it would confuse anyone but thought it best mention it.
the Mission (775s) sporting an SME 3009 (I wish I could tell which one it is) w/ the DL-110 which I hope to upgrade at some point... but what to? if it's even worth it!
With the wire-loop anti-skate holder, longer back, and the wire arm holder, it looks like your SME 3009 is the original Series II (i.e. "unimproved" version). I have both the original S2 and S2 improved arms, and the above 3 things are the most obvious physical differences at a glance.