What Frequency for My Subwoofer Crossover?*

My sub's crossover frequency works best at this location (on average). Can anyone tell me what frequency is that, based on the position of the grey dot between the 80 hz marking and the next marking on the dial ? I know it violates the ¨80 hz or less¨rule but I can't seem to get the punch I seek there and don't want to raise volume past 12 o clock for fear of killing the sub for the third time in 9 years and spend big money getting repaired yet again. No I can't afford a more powerful sub which would be the ideal thing to do. Thanx.

 

Id be crossing over more like around 80hz. 50hz is getting dangerously close to being able to localise it.

 

I can only localize it if it's too loud, in which case I just lower the volume.Works well for my room. Just would like to know how much over 80 I'm crossing it at. Since the scale is not linear I can't make an educated guess (85 ? 90? 95? 100 ?)

 

Thats where testing comes in . Entry to that game can be only $50 odd and some free software. Beware, its a rabbit warren

 

Sure; it' s just some subs mark their scales in full. I just want an educated guess from experience (aproximation)

 

Any other opinions please ? Someone pmd me telling me it's roughly 90 hz, which is what I was hoping for. Do you agree ?

 

I thought the higher the frequency the higher the ability to localize the source.

So, wouldn't a lower frequency be 'better'?

 

You have somewhat less than an octave difference on the left side and a bit more than an octave on ther right side. Remember that each higher octave interval is twice the frequency of the next lower. So 50Hz to 100 HZ to 150 HZ is two octaves higher. Since the right side is a slighter higher rate of increase I would say your mark point is around 95Hz. Hope this helps..

Of course that assumes that the dial markings are accurate. If you have a frequency sweep CD you should be able to tell where the frequency crossover is.

 

Why is this a question? The frequency difference between 80 Hz and 150 Hz is 70 Hz. 70 Hz divided by 3 is 23.33... Hz. Thus each black dot is 23.333 Hz higher in frequency than the black dot before it (to the left). Thus, the grey dot is ~92 Hz.

 

All things being equal lower is better if only because the sub is optimized for low frequencies not midrange. Bass notes are less localizable from a psychoacoustic standpoint. I have to assume there is some room node at the listening position which affects the integration.

 

That's what I initially thought too, but it doesn't quite work on the left side of that dial. Those dots represent 60hz and 70hz, right, wih 10Hz between dots? That doesn't hold for the right side of the dial though. So... either the dial isn't linear... or the numbers aren't very accurate.

I think anything is going to be a guess.

To the OP, as long as it sounds good, why is the actual number important?

 

Just curious

 

It does. Thanx

 

Lower the better ( while getting the results) I thought.

 

I like to start at 65 and move down

 

It looks like the crossover might be logarithmic. Both sides are just short of an octave. 50Hz to 100Hz is an octave while the mid point is labeled 80Hz. 80Hz to 160Hz is another octave while it maxes at 150Hz. But I agree, my guess is that mark is probably around 95hz.

The caveat is, do we know it really measures as it is labeled?

The best suggestion, get a mic and software and measure it. I think you will like the journey that this leads you.

 

Yes it is logarithmic. Damn if I know how to do the maths. Not really interested in measuring since I adjust by ear alone, and I think the scale is pretty accurate. Thanx for your opinion. Any mathematicians/engineers in the house ?

 

It's really not possible to get it closer since you don't have a stepped crossover control and your drawing is approximate. If the dial is operating correctly then it has to be somewhere between 90 and 96 Db. That is a bit high for a crossover point but if that's where you hear the best integration with that set-up don't worry about it.

 

It's lifted from the online manual, not a drawing. It's the best integration for most (not every one of them) of my albums so as to get the more ¨round¨sound I crave so much for rock and reggae without localization. I could lower to 80 and raise the volume and it would sound deeper but would lack punch (so much for perfect integration). Tradeoffs of adjusting by ear and not having a dedicated listened room I guess.

I think these scales should be fully and properly marked to take guesswork out of the equation.

 

I meant your mark on the dial was approximate. I agree that a digital dial would make sense on this application but at least a stepped control would be countable.

Realistically, home audio is a series of compromises. Given all the variables, the ears really are the best judge; particularly when you do some careful listening tests with different material. I have a small home theater system with a fixed crossover point of 80Hz on a powered sub, but I still have to vary the sub volume for different kinds of material to get appropriate balance.

 

I agree with others that it's about 90 Hz or slightly more. Does the exact frequency really matter? Probably not.

The ability to localize doesn't switch on magically above 80 Hz. It's just a guideline. No point blowing up your sub again. And if the sub is near the main speakers, it matters less.

Finally, I agree with @Mr Bass that home audio is full of compromises; and that your ears are the best judge of this kind of thing. You can measure if you want, and you may find it helpful (I do), but how the system sounds to you is the final criterion.

 

I made it with Paint. It's supposed to be smack in the middle between the 80 hz mark and the next one. Yes indeed on the stepped control

Yes it's right against the outer side of the right tower, near a corner. Absolutely agree with your comment. You can get away with a high crossover point for augmentation, but with certain material some localization issues are expected, in which case I just set speakers B to off and crank the 200/400hz control on my receiver a coupla notches (rare), roughly the same result since my mains go 39 flat but don't severely roll off till they hit 35. On a lot of records I don't even need to turn the sub on.

 

If you can play back YouTube video in your setup, try search for test tone videos and play back different test tones. No need to buy anything, all free. : )

 

At what frequency does your main speaker's woofer begin to drop. That should be a big part of your equation in determining where you what the sub coming in. The sub should be taking over slightly above the frequency where the main speaker's woofer starts to loose their power. If the sub needs to cross over a lot higher than that then you might consider adjusting the sub-woofer's placement. If your sub has a small driver in the 8 inch range then you might also consider using two subs. I believe two subs, when it comes to listening to music is always better than just using one.

 

39 hz, but I actually enjoy to double up to 80-90 for added impact. I don't seek subtlety at all. Actually it's more a matter of whether the recordings have rolled-off bass or not. With full bass, the sub has to be turned off since the mains anhilate in both punch and extension. Most rock recordings have little bass, so that's when I augment it with the sub. With this record, as an eg, I don't need the sub at all :