Quick question. If I plan on upgrading either a Planar 1,2, or 3. Does it make sense to purchase the most expensive (3) or not. By upgrade I mean. Groovtracer Subplatter and Platter, new belt, cart and tonearm. I can do this over time. I guess what I'm asking is there a difference in the motors and plinth. Thanks for the help.
Well according to your upgrading plans then the only difference left would be the plinth which is thicker on the Planar 3 and has top and bottom braces. Oh I forgot something important, the new Planar 3 has an extra connector on the PCB to allow to plug a Neo or TTPSU. I think the 24V motor should be the same on new Planar 1, 2 and 3, someone could correct me on the this.
There is a difference, and the differences get wider with each model. Some of what I'm saying below might be a little off, so hopefully someone will correct any mistakes, but this is what I remember when looking at those. P1 can basically be upgraded to a P2. P2 has the glass platter, but the plinth and arm are the same. Not as many upgrade options for these tables either I believe (could be wrong). P3 is where big differences start... Braces arm built into the plinth. Different arm. Can upgrade Power supply, subplatter, platter, belts, and other bits. But you're just basically slowly building a P6 at that point. However... P6 has already has the belt, platter, subplatter, and power supply upgraded. It ALSO has a different plinth. Same foam core from the higher end tables I believe. You can't upgrade to that on the P3.
I believe OP wants to embrace the fun of upgrading the table parts by parts little by little even if it will surely cost more in the long run than going straight to the P6. I'm on this path myself so I know them feels. But to answer the original question, it makes sense only if you do not plan on changing the plinth (because yeah that's "upgradable" too) and if you are planning to add a Rega Neo or TTPSU later.
I totally get the appeal of the gradual upgrades. But I also didn't know you could upgrade the actual plinth on the P3. That's interesting. I was under the impression that even if you got every upgrade on the P3, it still technically wouldn't equal the P6 because of the foam core plinth on the P6. Now if that makes a noticeable difference is a different discussion, but I thought that foam core plinth was the one true non-changeable separation between the two tables. But maybe I'm wrong. I've looked into this a little, but I'm by no means an expert here.
With the Rega line, I believe it makes the most sense to buy the best one within your budget and upgrade it the least. My opinion only: Upgrade the subplatter on the 3, and all other upgrades are very optional.
I actually started with a new Planar 2. I loved it. After some reading, though - it seemed like the Planar 3 was the much better "long term upgrade" investment because the ability to add the power supply upgrade. I just added a groovetracer subplatter myself...it's excellent! Will prolly gun for the the Neo PSU or maybe a cartidge update around Xmas time. My current "savings" needs to go towards new speakers.
The tonearm on the P1 and P2 is not the same. P1 has the RB110 tonearm which is not for sale separately. The P2 has the infinitely better RB220 which is available separately.
Yeah the P1 should not even be in consideration. Go with the 3 if you can afford it and add a groovetracer subplatter.
Agreed. That is one 'improvement' that should have been skipped. I have always found with any Rega tonearm that I have owned, the antiskating is too much when set to match the VTF. I cannot speak for the P2 as I do not own one. The feature will probably be dropped in the future.
I do own one. Stupid idea! If your cartridge tracks at around 2g you're good. 1.5 or less, forget it!
If you want to replace everything on it, find a used RP3. The motor on this table can still accept the new NEO drive. It would be crazy to spend the kind of money you are talking about and still not be able to use the outboard power supply, so that should rule out the P1 and P2. The new P3 is a pretty good table stock, and other than the subplatter, I would leave it stock. I owned one for over a year, so I know that table pretty well. Don't be disappointed in the end if your modded baby will still get smoked by a P6 though, Rega hit it way out of the park with this model. The key is the foam plinth. It is extremely light, but rigid. The motor and dust cover are the only reason for the plinth to exist. Vibrations from both can enter the plinth, but the miminal mass of the foam can not efficiently transmit that energy into the much higher mass of the platter and the tonearm mount. The P6 has exceptional pitch, unlike past models. The P6 comes with a CNC aluminum subplatter standard. The platter is a two layer design with most of the mass on the outside to help with a flywheel effect. Of course, the NEO is included, and tuned to each unit. You mods can help get close to the speed accuracy, but that plinth you cant match. The aftermarket stuff is much heavier. If you want a heavy plinth design, buy a VPI. THe P6 has pretty much no overhang on notes. You have to hear this on a good system to appreciate it. A lot of "muddy" recordings are no longer muddy. Its your money, but before you drop a couple grand on a modded lower level Rega, you need to hear what Rega is giving you for 1600 dollars. If you still want to go the modded route, my earlier advice stands. Buy the older RP3, since you are going to replace everything Rega upgraded in the new version.
With the 1 & 2 models, I wouldn't do much more than the performance pack. With the 3, other than maybe the TT PSU, I would just skip the other upgrades and sell it for an eventual upgrade to the Planar 6. You will save money and get a plinth upgrade. You could upgrade the counterweight on the Planar 3 as it can be transferred to the new deck. But spending $300 on a subplatter seems like you are wasting money that could get you to a the Planar 6. If you want a Delrin platter, that too could be transferred. So there are some upgrade options. I just wouldn't do any of the ones Rega added to the Planar 6. I would only upgrade the TTPSU if you intend to keep the deck for over 5 years. Otherwise save the money and get a Planar 6.
I love to mod things, you should see my Mustang GT, pitty the VETT that pulls up and wants to go. Looks stock, its not. I'll look for a RP3 and then go crazy over time.
The P6 already comes with an upgraded counterweight. It is heavier and made from SS. I had an upgraded Rega CW on my P3 and just traded it in when I got a look at the standard P6 CW. A Delrin platter for a P3 wont fit a P6, different subplatter height. Plus, the stock P6 platter is a pretty trick platter. No way a Delrin platter can be the same height without giving up weight. If you want a P6, the only upgrade is really the P8 when it comes out.
What if the Vette is modded too? Hey, if you want to mod, have fun at it. Since you have made up your mind, let me add that I recommended the RP3 over the new P3 on the grounds you are going to replace the tonearm as per your post. The new RB330 arm on the P3 is very good. It comes with a redesigned profile to reduce arm resonances, beater bearings, and much better wiring than the 303 on the RP3. Should you decide not to replace the arm, the P3 is the better starting point. Whichever table you choose, your first mod needs to be getting rid of the plastic subplatter, followed by the Neo PS. Those will make the biggest difference.
I just took my RP3 out of service a couple months ago for the P6/Ania/NEO and fono preamp. I was just about to start to upgrade my PR3 when I started to read about the P6 and waited for it to come out. I love my RP3 and the Exact 2 cart I put on it. The best thing I did was get the TTPUS about 6 mo after I got the table. It made a huge difference in the speed/sound. I didn't upgrade the tonearm or the subplatter cuz the P6 would have all that and more. Like others have said if you want to do all the upgrades yourself I would get the P3 and have fun hearing the differences as you go along, but if you can afford the P6 then I would start there and tryout different cart's and peramps. What ever you decide it sounds like you're going to have an enjoyable time doing it. When I was in high school ('78) I put a 428 cobra jet in my 1973 Maverick kept everything under the hood nice and lowkey. It was my Trans Am eater. Fun times for sure.
So, I pulled the trigger on a Planar 3, brand spanking new. For the time being I am going to use my Denon DL110 cart. Do I need to shim? Thanks for all the help. Super excited!!!!
Nice choice. I lived with the original Planar 3 (circa 1990 for me) for 20 years. It worked flawlessly and saw more than a few cartridges during its tenure, even up to $1k. I started out with a DL-302 on it. You should have a 2mm spacer installed under the arm for best fit. I hope that you supported your local dealer. They can do that for you, and perhaps set it up at no charge as an added service. -Bill