DCC Archive Adaptec EZ CD Creator question

I have version 3.5. Is there a way to stop it from using all capitals on the songtracks?

Thanks,
Larry

 

Guys,

The 3.x engine of EZCD likes to use all caps, but you can change that at will MANUALLY. So, if you're trying to do the j-cards and the disc all at once, you'd have to double click on each song and change it one at a time. Pain in the ass. Plus, you'll notice once in a while, a song or two WILL come out in normal lower and higher caps. This is a quirk they totally re-wrote over in the later versions.

The EZCD 4.x-5.X versions don't do this caps thing. Personally though, EZCD Roxio/Adaptec products aren't very good at making anything definitive. Sorry.

When you're copying from one CD to the next, you're either doing one of two things actually. You're making the software write the whole disc (or parts) to the hard drive first (this usually happens) or you're making the disc software extract-while-writing. (This rarely happens)-Because the read/write process off the motherboard is a busy process, and sometimes creates missing data. This missing data gets burned into your copy, and clicks and "woops" get thrown in. Think your copy is good? Ha.

The only real way of making a good copy worry free is to use my favorite two tools. You don't have to pay a cent to use them, but it helps. Exact Audio Copy and CDRWin by Goldenhawk. With EAC and an internet connecton, you can image the whole disc - flawlessly - given you have a decent CDRom drive and a good disc to start, You can plainly hit Alt-G to get the track names (from the CDDB data base) and what's great is, EAC can burn-in the track listings for CD-Text capable players. Just hit Alt+F7 and the whole disc gets imaged to the HD (Yes, this is the way) and you'll be let known of any errors or flubs. Even though these error reports are trustworthy, it's best to listen to the big WAV file with Winamp to make sure it's peachy.

Now, EAC has its own burning software under TOOLS, but you can also use CDRWin to burn. EAC AND CDRwin both use Cue/Wav file combos, which are the most accurate and the most simple ways of copying the disc, even ones with weird SMPTE timings. You will GET a perfect copy of a CD, without a lot of work. It's all in the image you pull down to the hard drive.

Now EAC only needs a postcard sent in the mail (sorta like freeware) so tell the dude you like his code. CDRwin will work at 1X speed, unless you buy a registration. Note, EAC is all you need, but I use CDRWin because the interface is a lot simpler to get into.

One other rec: When using ANY CDR brand that is the reflective, pale-metallic looking (Non Azio) discs are better written at 8X or lower for reliability (most cheaper CDR medias are photo-sensitive and can "forget" in less than 5 years)

Check out these sites and get into CDRs and how they work. It will save your life! CDR Dyes and Why... CDR Info Page..

Lots to learn, lotta fun. I hate it when a CDR goes to hell.

 

That's strange, huh? Well when a bad audio CDR is made, missing data at the write process might sound like scratchyness or skipping, sometimes whole-partial seconds of music gone. The burner is almost never at fault, it's the read process to the hard drive. The burner will burn whatever audio it's got, good or bad, and that's why I say it's best to listen with Winamp or even Windows Media Player....

Lately, I've noticed some CDRs go "forgetful" on me, and copying them becomes harder and harder sometimes. If it's a Beatles boot or something I want to keep around, I burn it at 2X-8X. There's nothing wrong with 24X burns, but some dyes can't take it. This is a problem we never really had before, because older 2X burners and the lower-run batch dyes were really strong. People wanted cheapness, and that's what we got.

Don't worry about being brand-loyal. Everyone (except Mistui) have changed brand several times, and inside that, dyes have changed all over the place. Sometime, they'll mention on the package which dyes they're using, for the people who care. For now, most of the pale-metallic low reflective CDRs, they work great, but they don't keep well when burned quickly, especially under changing tempratures. Something I've learned though "default" recently.

 

How do you burn the track listings? I don't remember seeing that option.

BTW, EAC is also good for making mp3s when used in conjunction with LAME.

 

When you 1st put a CD in, the track listings are as Track01, Track02...etc. All you have to do is put a fake email in Eac/FreeDB Database options, where it says "Email Address". Put something like [email protected] or something. Leave the rest alone. Then, while on the net, hit your Alt+G and see what happens. Your tracks turn to actual track NAMES (the CD must be well-known. Try using a commerical CD, even most boots show up tho!).

Now, when you Alt+F7 to image the disc, the cue file will contain the track names, so, in burning the CD using EAC (Tools, Write-CDR), as long as your burner supports it (most DO - Choose CDR Drive in the front page, then "EAC/Drive options", put in an audio CD then do a test for burner features like CD Text. The tests only have to be done once). So, if you can, then you can!

My car stereo, a JVC Kamelion, displays the CD Text. This is only neato-kool if you have a deck that supports CD text. Most of the newer Sonys, the 50-100 disc carosels made in the past year do that. The CD text feature is getting more popular, as the display interfaces are more complicated anyway.

So, Pat, depending on if you do have a CD-Text player, this useful toy might not be a big deal.

EAC saves the discs you've FreeDB'd in the EAC folder, so when you try and copy the same CD again, it remembers the track names.

Also, the lossless compresssion format, SHN has a plugin available for EAC. The EAC program is very powerful, small, free and highly manipulateable.

Try doing that with EZCD. Ha.

 

There seems to be some misinformation about CD creator. The CD-Rs made with this program are no less accurate because of it.

If you are not getting accurate copies the problem lies in the extracting CD ROM or burner. Most CD ROMS are terrible at DAE, while most burners should be excellent. I have used CD Creator for years without ANY problem whatsoever.

I think the reason CD Creator gets such a bad rap is because the interface is geared towards the novice user, does not offer elaborate pro features, and is overbloated with stuff most music people don't really use.

The program does what it is supposed to do and it makes quality CD-Rs.

 

You're right Grant, on many counts.

But EZCD doesn't care if there's real errors in extraction. In fact, depending on conditions, it'll rip right though. EAC actually reports errors (or possible ones) so on bad DAC, it can help you without having to worry.

There are many reasons I don't like EZCD, but I use it too! What I have learned though, is there are many free or low-cost tools that aren't as bloated as EZ that give the user more useful features, but that's just what you said.

It's not a big suprise that people will use what they're used to. I used to think that way too. Just trying to help those who might benefit. I know I have!


Cheers.

 

I call that program EZ 'Coaster' Creator, because that's all I have ever found it to be good for.

Like Scott, I use and recommend EAC and CDRWin. One's free and the other is worth every dollar.

And, as always, this is simply MHO!
If you are getting good results with EZ CD Creator, congratulations!
Just don't take my EAC away!

 

I agree with Grant, actually. I've never actually had a PROBLEM with Easy CD Creator: I simply don't use it for copying audio CDs, as I've got programs that do that so much better.


For the record, using CDRWin or Clone CD to copy audio CD-->HD -->Audio CD has NEVER given me even the smallest of problems (Except in special cases, of course). I haven't had problems using Nero or Easy CD either, but heck, the previous two are so much smaller and simpler to use.


I tend to use CDRWin to compile discs when space is tight (as it writes an absurdly small TOC). On my new computer, since CDRWin doesn't support the drive (and since recent versions have...uh...issues with registration), I use Nero, esp. because Nero makes doing CDText really easy.

-D

 

Another reason people have problems with CD Creator is because of their PC configuration. No one ever seems to think about that.

Also, If you have more than one CD burning program on your PC they may conflict with each other. Some people try to burn at maximum speed when their PC configuration won't handle it. Some people burn at 1x which raises problems. Some try to surf the net or type letters to grandma while burning. There is IDE, SCCSI, OS, screen savers, antivirus and other things running in the background, all sorts of things going on.

 

Anybody ever use SimliCD from Oak Technology? I was thinking of buying it.

 

Since nobody has mentioned it I thought I would. Before burning a CD always use Ctrl/Alt/delete to remove everything but systray and explorer. FWIW I always do a disc image before burning a disc.

 

For anyone that wants to know their
CD manufacturer and Dye.
A groovy little program.
http://www.gum.de/cdrid/

 

Hey booboo, that app and others like it are useless. Some manufacturers buy equipment from other manufacturers. The stampers made by CMC, for example, may have been purchased by Ricoh or Memorex. The wrong dye and manufacturer info will show up on the program because it just reads the ATIP info on the disc.