Alright--- I just picked up a ReVox G36 r-to-r...

Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by Joel Cairo, Dec 20, 2002.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    ...for an **exceedingly** reasonable price (!) and I haven't fired her up yet, for a myriad of reasons-- the biggest one being that I don't have a variac, and I'd like to wake her up **slowly**....

    The biggest attaction was the great amount of affection that I've seen expressed by other owners of the machine, and that it seems guaranteed to spread its warm "tube-y" goodness into my heart, once it's up and running...

    The serial number on this is over 70,000, which I'm told makes it a "Type III"... this seems like a good thing, but I' must confess, I haven't read up enough to be considered well-versed on the functions of my new little bundle of joy... so, I'm about to go off and spend some time with the owner's manual...

    It wouldn't surprise me to learn that it needs at least a bit of service and adjustment-- I do know that it'll probably need a new capstan, since it seems to have been manufactured with the one that works on a current comprised of the standard European 50 cycles/sec., rather than the US standard of 60.

    Anyone have any words of wisdom, as I get my feet wet with this?-- it very well may need some new tubes, also, which I assume means NOS, but whose flavor (Telefunken's..., Mullards..., etc.)?

    Thank for any help (and hopefully, words of encouragement!), folks!!

    -Kevin
     
  2. Steve Hoffman

    Steve Hoffman Your host Your Host

    Location:
    Los Angeles
  3. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Ja, dat's der vun, Chollie... :)

    ...but at less than half of **that** current price.

    Belts, eh...? OK, noted.

    Any preliminary maintenance I should run first? I assume a good swabbing of the tape path would be in order, but is there anything else I might want to look for?

    Signs of excessive wear on the head assembly? How would I know how much is **too** much? Or is that something that only a listening test will reveal?

    Questions, questions...

    ..still seems like a pretty cool machine, though!!

    -Kevin
     
  4. Steve Hoffman

    Steve Hoffman Your host Your Host

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Do you know where it came from or the last time it was switched on?

    The belts are usually the killer on these machines. They dry out and then snap like rubber bands. (Don't worry, there are Revox nuts who have new parts).

    The heads? Well, play something and see. If it sounds good, yer in! Look at the head gap through a strong lens after cleaning. How much wear is on there?
     
  5. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Unfortunately, I don't have any info on when it last saw service.... the seller, who gave me the serial number figure, evidently didn't use it either... prior to the sale I asked whether it had the lid (not pictured in the sale illustration) and AC cord (since I didn't see it either, I assumed it was detachable)... he indicated that it **did** have the lid (always a good sign), but that he didn't have an AC cord for it. Well, fair enough, I think- I can replace that easily enough, if it's not a proprietary connector.

    Well, I just **now** dug out the manual and found out that the input/output area has a plastic cover over it-- so I opened up the panel and not only saw the "missing" AC cord (hardwired, of course :) ), but noted (to my delight) that I actually just bought a model that's set up for 117 volt/60cycle USA current-- so it appears that I may not have to get that capstan assembly after all!

    After I swab her down, I may gingerly try to start her up-- I'll find an expendable pre-recorded reel and use that for my initial experiments...

    At least now I know not to freak if something doesn't turn properly-- I'll check the belt before I assume that it's a bad motor...

    Thanks for the tips, Steve!!

    -Kevin

    BTW - what a **beautiful** Studer you're looking for...!! :D
     
  6. Steve Hoffman

    Steve Hoffman Your host Your Host

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Yeah, swab the heads and fire it up. It won't blow up or anything.

    I figured it was a "North American" model.

    Any idea what type of valves are in it? Do you have a tube tester?
     
  7. Dan C

    Dan C Forum Fotographer

    Location:
    The West
    Did you really buy one of those Studers Steve?! Is that something you'll use to play back master tapes or is it a collector's piece?

    Dan C
     
  8. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    No tester, unfortunately...

    ...and I haven't had a chnce to crack it open yet to visually check the tubes, but I'll do that tonight, after I look over the tape path and head assembly. When I find out what's in there, I'll let you know...

    Again, thanks for the words of encouragement!

    -Kevin
     
  9. Steve Hoffman

    Steve Hoffman Your host Your Host

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    No, I didn't buy one. I'd like to "run into" one somewhere though. I doubt they made it to America. It just looks neat!
     
  10. Dan C

    Dan C Forum Fotographer

    Location:
    The West
    Sorry, I misunderstood. It sure is stunning!:love:
    Hope you "run" into one soon!
    Dan C
     
  11. Steve Hoffman

    Steve Hoffman Your host Your Host

    Location:
    Los Angeles
  12. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    OK - here's the tube list....

    ... the ReVox requires the following:


    4 - 12AT7/ECC81
    1 - 12AU7/ECC82
    5 - 12AX7/ECC83
    2 - 6GW8/ECL86


    As for what's in there right now... well, let's just say I have the United Nations of tubes.... (Hungary, Japan, UK, Korea... you get the idea)

    (In all fairness, it **does** power up, though-- lights, meters and the whole bit.)

    I'm guessing that the 12AX7s should be replaced with Telefunkens, and the 12AU7 with a Mullard (since Steve thinks the Tele AU7s are too "slow"), but what about the 12AT7's and the 6GW8's?

    Also... two of the 12AX7's are shielded, but the metal sleeve is pretty tight around each of the current tubes... any solutions on how to gently work it off, in order to replace them?

    Thanks for the help, folks...!

    -Kevin

    BTW - the tape path was-- let's say, **definitely used**... it took 6 swabs to clean out the extra oxide!!
     
  13. Steve Hoffman

    Steve Hoffman Your host Your Host

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Wow, that's a big giant tube monster.

    Don't worry about the tubes in the recording circuit (unless you are planning on doing recording obviously). I just use my Ampex for playback, so the brand of tubes in the recording section don't matter to me, as long as they are good.

    It's the playback tubes that will count the most. Judging by your UN of tubes in there, I'd say the thing was in use quite recently.

    Use a little liquid goup on there to loosen the hum guards. Heck, can't think of the name of that stuff in a spray can WD-40 or a silicone spray--sparingly.

    Play a tape on the sucker already! :)
     
  14. sgraham

    sgraham New Member

    Location:
    Michigan
    The transport looks laid out similar to an A-77, a three motor design with no belts except the tape counter, unless you count the brake bands.

    I have one word of advice: Before putting a precious tape on this machine, run it for a while with junk. If there's a bad capacitor or other component in the circuit there's a remote chance that it might put current through one of the heads when it's not supposed to, and partially demagnetize your tape. (Had this happen with an old tubed Tandberg once. Ouch. Intermittent, too, always fine when a tech looked at it.)

    Try putting a blank tape on it and flipping all the switches, to make sure none of them put noise on the tape during playback. I have a machine that does put clicks on the tape if you have it in REC SAFE mode, but not if it's in REC READY (strange, but true(.

    If you have to replace the capstan with a different diameter one, you'll need to adjust the pinch roller travel to accomodate it.
     
  15. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Steve H.:

    I'll pick one up tomorrow, I promise...!! :)

    In the meantime, though-- here's what the innards of one look like...

    ...."big giant tube monster" is right... and I can hardly wait to hear it!!

    -Kevin

    And thanks for the advice, Mr. Graham-- believe me, I'm heeding it... I've seen something analogous happen with video tapes, and I'd hate like hell to screw up something irreplaceable.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Joel Cairo

    Joel Cairo Video Gort / Paiute Warrior Staff Thread Starter

    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Well, looks like the great experiment will have to wait for a little while... because it turns out that I have FF and REW, but no PLAY function... :(

    The motor doesn't seem to engage at all (at least there's no torque or tension that occurs when I hit the button), although I can hear a flywheel (or a motor) shifting gears when I attempt to change the speed.

    If there's a belt underneath from the PLAY motor that leads to the drive shaft, it's possible that's what's gone bad... the upper belt (just under the plastic facing) is fine-- and of course, works for FF and REW...

    So for the moment, I'm stumped, but I'll give the problem some more thought... it may that a visit to "the shop" is the best alternative.

    -Kevin
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

molar-endocrine