Burning CDs: What is the best Burner? Does it make a difference?

Hello!

Today I am curious about the best methods for burning CDs.

What's most important? CDs? The Burner? Software?

I have tons of lossless music on my computer, and I love being able to make my own CDs. But I am completely ignorant as to if there are any different methods, than a standard pack of CDs and my PCs CD Burner.

Any input would be great! Thanks!

 

I have an Alesis Masterlink. That's one way to burn a CD.
Alesis Masterlink ML-9600
Alesis MasterLink ML-9600: MASTER DISK RECORDER
I paid $999 in 2009. Here's a used one for $279.
Alesis MasterLink ML-9600 Digital Recording Interface for sale online | eBay

 

Despite what some may tell you, any decent brand of CD-Rs (Verbatim, Sony, etc.) will produce excellent audio. Same goes for any decent burner. Remember that the CD standard has good error correction, which will perfectly compensate for minor deficiencies in the media or drive.

As for software, I've found that Adobe Audition works great for me. If I rip a CD with EAC, then burn the files with Audition, I can get a perfect copy which returns 100% in AccurateRip.

 

Another thing to remember: if you're making compilation CDs from many different sources, make sure to convert the files to 32-bit float before applying any processing. This is especially true in the case of level adjustments. Then convert back to 16-bit, using proper dither, before burning. This ensures the best sound quality.

 

Exact Audio Copy is the best program I've found, but there is a bit of a learning curve. Plextor has always been the best burners for me. The slower the burn speed the more accurate the results from my experience. I'm still using a 2002 Plextor to get exact time burns and it gives the best sonic results closer to the original file than any others I've tried. YMMV

 

Really doesn't matter.

 

Without a doubt the CD-R is the most important, not just in terms of having less read errors but in terms of SQ, I recommend Taiyo Yuden.

My LG GP57EB40, £20, will write error free disc consistently.

I don't know if it makes a difference but I use Nero to burn.

 

Yes, but hardly relevant for what the OP wants. He has the music on his PC; the Alesis can ONLY burn a CD from the content of its own hard drive. So an extra step would have to be performed, a transfer from PC to Alesis - and that would have to be done in real time, not a file transfer.

 

This is something I will keep my eye on down the line.

I am a recording musician so this would be pretty cool to have.

As far as everything else goes, it seems the CD and the Program are key.

So I will go out and buy some new CDs!

Thanks everyone!

 

Cool. Glad I could help...I bought mine in 2009 and have not used it once. Except to play a CD.

I should make CD's out of a lot of my vinyl so I can play the CD's when I don't feel like whipping out the vinyl. But, I'll likely not cause I be lazy.

 

I've never been able to tell any difference.

I use Nero.

 

The two best CD burners ever made were the Plextor Premium II and the Yamaha CRW-F1 drives. Both of these burners featured a special low-jitter burn mode which was called "AMQR" (for Audio Master Quality Recording). When in this special burn mode, these drives deliberately burned pits which were about 20% longer than was standard which supposedly improved the jitter performance of the drive. This did shorten the length of recorded CDs a bit, but when recording on an 80 minute disk, this was rarely a limitation.

But this assumes that you believe in controversial topics like jitter (which a great many reject), and it also assumes that you have a player which is sensitive to the effects of jitter.

 

The Alesis is something of a legacy product now, and has limitations compared to more recent solid-state recorders.

When using the Alesis as a recorder, you can only record to its internal hard drive. Then, the only way to get the music out of the Alesis is to make a CD, or a data disc with AIFF files of the music. You cannot make a file transfer of the music, in the manner of copying a FLAC file or similar from one folder to another. You have to transfer the music to CD or data disc, then rip or copy from that CD to get music onto your computer. I've used them for years, and a few years ago made the move to solid-state recording, which has much more convenience than the Alesis method.

There WILL be maintenance issues with the Alesis in years to come, because the internal HDD uses the legacy IDE interface, which disappeared from regular use in computers years ago. Drives will be more difficult to find. I've converted one of mine to a solid state drive, which gets around the problem, and if you're buying one, I would recommend you do this straight off; but it will increase your outlay

And, as I mentioned above, you cannot get your files from your computer onto the Alesis by file transfer. It has no data ports, or file transfer mechanisms, only audio inputs and outputs. Also, you cannot take the HDD out of the Alesis and connect it to a Win or Mac PC, with a USB caddy or similar, neither will recognise the file system, which is Alesis's own.

Hope this helps. I know the Alesis inside out, ask if you want more details.

 

I still use windows media player with an external LG drive ($23). Have not tried burning DVD's yet but does an excellent job on CD's.
The drive in my computer failed and the LG was a cost effective alternative.

 

Good stuff. I will try to sell my Alesis for $288...I have good digital cables I could be convinced to throw in.

 

I've never had a problem with any disc Verbatim makes.