Can you record, say, three songs onto a CD-RW and then erase only the third (or last) song in order to re-record it? I'd like to set the volume levels on my home made CD by that method, going from a CD player into a CD Recorder. What are the best CD-RWs? Thanks in advance.
Yes, you can erase one or more tracks before Finalizing. After Finalizing you have to erase the whole disc. I'd use JVC Made in Japan CDRW, as they are TY manufactured.
On my two Sony stand-alone recorders (i.e. not linked to a computer) after finalising, it is possible to un-finalise and erase tracks on a CD-RW disc - but only in reverse order. That means if you have, say, 12 tracks on a finalised CD-RW, you can unfinalise and either erase the whole disc or Track 12, and then Track 11 and so on.
I knew someone would a different make to mine and have a different answer. That's something I haven't tried but it makes sense, though it isn't covered in my manual for the Marantz.
Thanks for the info. One more question-do I need CD-RWs that say "For Music" on the package as I do with regular CD-Rs?
Yes - if you are using a non-computer recorder such as a Sony. Those models will not accept regular CD-Rs or CD-RWs.
The guy at the store tells me it says "For Media" and that media means music. Should I believe him? \
I would be very dodgy about buying "media" discs as they sound just like ordinary recordable CDs to me. Music CD-Rs are becoming more and more difficult to find. The words "music" or "digital audio" should appear on the box or CD itself. I get mine from eBay online stores and they are usually TDK or Maxell and are clearly marked for music/audio. Sony also make them but seem to be more expensive. I don't buy many lately because I use only a re-writable "Music" CD-RW on my stand-alone recorder. I make compilations, etc, from tape or vinyl or radio. I then finalise the disc, put it in my computer and burn it to a regular (and much cheaper) CD-R. I can then erase the "music" CD-RW for further use on my table machine. Again, as mentioned above, ordinary cheaper CD-R and CD-RWs can be used on certain "professional" recorders, but mine is a Sony and I bought it about 8 years ago so it won't accept those - only ones marked "music" or "audio".
I believe Audio CdRW actually have an extra premium in price to compensate for performing rights to pacify the music industry who feared copying of copyrighted material. Hence, they are more expensive than computer Cdrw.
That was Sony's bright idea. Also, if you burnt a CD-R on one of their machines, you couldn't make a digital copy of that copy - you had to revert to analogue (same with MiniDisc). It seems to me that Sony never could reconcile themselves to the idea that they were selling music and music-copying machines at the same time.
If your standalone recorder is a consumer model, you must use Music or Digital Audio blank media. If your recorder is professional, you may use Data media. Tascam, HHb, Marantz Professional, Fostex, and more are examples of pro recorders.
That's the same with my Harman Kardon CDR-30 - if I try to make a dub of a CD-R that I burned on that unit it will automatically convert it to "analog". I haven't copied anything on it for years but I don't recall really hearing a difference either way.
way back when I had (still do) a Phillips CD recorder that was able to be fooled... after you inserted the $20.00 MUSIC CDR you were able to pull the draw open and replace it with a $2.50 data CDR...I still have the ones I made with that machine and they play perfectly today.
We had a Marantz DR6000 recorder. 1: Yes you can delete the last track on a CD-RW if the disc isn't finalised. You can un-finalise a CD-RW disc. 2. You must use "for music" or "audio" recordable discs in all standalone consumer CD-recorders. Sometimes, in the case of professional CD-recorders you can use any CD-R/RW disc, like any computer data disc, or in the above case, if you can 'trick' your machine you may able to use ordinary discs. Don't trust the store guy, buy online cheap from somewhere like Amazon. The thing is, that apparently a fee is paid to the music industry allowing you to record or copy music. That's why CD-R/RW Audio discs are more expensive. Also, once you've written to disc digitally copying music, I don't belive that the machine lets you digitally copy that again, because it sends encrypted data too which only allows one copy. I use my PC drive now, set them on the slowest speed the go at, and be done with it. I still haven't got to using Taiyo Uden discs, I'm currently using cheap TDK or Verbatim CD-Rs both made in India. The TDK's seem to give slightly lower error rates funnily enough. I used to say this was a no no - but I have more control over the quality of the CD produced (timing, fades etc) through software, and to be honest, the quality of the disc is good. I couldn't hear a difference between the computer burnt CD-R and the original pressed CD (note I'm not talking early Japanese pressings, or other high quality stock material).
