Embarking on a Thorens TD 165 Restoration

There are screws of various lengths available as sets on Ebay. They are 2mm in size as opposed to 2,6. Essential really. Also on Volante1 (ebay) you will find the shims originally supplied. Often the original plastic alignment headshell tool crops up!

 

Soooo,
Got the dust cover from the UK and really like it:

 

Next order of business is 3D "Thorens" lettering I am having done by the maker of my new RCM which you can see in the YouTube video down below. Mockup photos of the lettering are below that:

 

Almost there - still some fine finishing to do before application:

 

Delighted. I love these decks!

 

I just read your thread. Well done it looks great.

 

Took a lot of patience but here she be in all her glory (and it sounds fantastic now):

 

Next item I plan on getting is a marble or granite block to sit under the chrome legs of the TT. The pvc adjustable (leveling) feet will go underneath the isolation platform. Will look somewhat similar to this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vibration-Isolation-Platform-for-REGA-RP1-Turntable-/381192527664?hash=item58c0d85f30:g:AQYAAOSwBLlVA1NT

 

Sweet looking table. Quite the transformation from the first pics. I noticed the buffed platter. Any plans to protect it from oxidizing?

 

I think you should metalize the lettering to match the table

 

I just hit it with Mother's metal polish - takes but a moment. When it gets dull or finger-printed from excessive handling out comes the Mother's and within no time it is all shiny again....

 

I was really on the fence about this one myself. I opted to go with black because the tonearm bits, the TT clamp and the signature controls handles were all black and I thought the contrast would be good. There will aslo be a black marble or granite isolation slab underneath the TT which will add to the contrast. There is a lot of metal finish area on the platter, feet and plinth top plus parts of the tonearm so I thought too much shiny metallic would be overdoing it to a degree. That is not to say I may get sick of it and make a change down the road ;-)
I did almost order tthe metalic controls from the TD 160 but for now will stand fast as I just want to enjoy the TT for a while - thanks for your opinion though....

 

Latest edition to the turntable that allows me to fall asleep listening to relaxing music...

 

Well, that sure looks nice!

 

Isn't that the truth! I have a custom rebuilt Thorens 150 with a new SME M2-9 tonearm and it is so much heavier than any Thorens tonearm. So heavy, I had to replace the Thorens spring under the tonearm with a stiffer Linn spring. Finally, I was able to get "some" bounce and it now bounces straight up and down vs. rocking side to side. Even with this Linn spring, it will only bounce up and down a few times for about 1.5 - 2 seconds.

However, to get the subchassis to float, even with a platter weight, my bottom platter and top plate clearance is on about 2.5 - 3mm instead of the recommended 6mm. If I adjust my springs to get the 6mm clearance, they are so compressed by then that the bounce is completely dead. For those of you wanting to customize a TD-150, I would stay away from the heavier arms like SME if you are trying to achieve the factory recommended 10 - 15 second bounce - it will just not happen. And for sure, the Thorens springs cannot support the subchassis underneath the tonearm mount when using these heavier tonearms like SME.

Cheers!

 

Wasn't sure if I should revive this old thread of mine (still enjoying the table immensely). I done gone and done it again. Found me another Thorens TD-165 turntable that needs a little help so I an refurbishing this one for my man-cave system to replace a Pioneer PLX-500-K just to stay in the Vintage realm. Of course I have a thing for old Thorens tables since I lived in the town where they were built (Lahr, West Germany at the time). Issues:
1. It was missing a headshell assembly which I ordered (along with the alignment jig) off of Canuck Audio Mart from a fellow Canadian who lives in Quebec - I of course live clear across the country in British Columbia so it will be a while before it arrives. In the meantime I pulled the headshell off my TT shown previously and it sounds pretty darn good except:
2. Belt keeps slipping off the motor pulley assembly on 33 1/3 and 45 - falls off the bottom when spinning up to 33 1/3 from stop and tends to slip off the top when in 45 mode. I am able to get it running to speed after playing with it a bit and keep it spinning to change records. That is where the good sound comes through. Suspect the springs are waaaaay out of adjustment so will need to tweak to get it running....
3. Old plinth it was on was in rough shape. Good thing I kept the previous plinth as it is in terrific shape even though it is a vinyl veneer version. I may entice my neighbour to work his magic again...
4. Needs a dust cover - will order same as above - love that one.
5. Belt shot - used my spare Thakker - ordering another.
6. Typical of the TD 165, the face plate has a few nasty scratches hence the real purpose of this post. I can order a NOS version from Switzerland that is perfect. I am unable to find any info on the web regarding how to remove the old face plate and put a new one on?????? Can anyone point me in the right direction? Do I absolutely need to remove the tonearm to do so or is there a work around??????
Thanks
TMF
-

 

That's awesome that you found another! Crazy stuff.

I have a TD160 myself and love it, would love another headshell for it for easy switching of carts (one day). I cleaned it when I got it, damped it using dynamat (which I found for a good price on clearance), made a heavier bottom, and tweaked the suspension. She sings beeeautifully!

Not sure if I saw this link floating around this thread but have you checked out this site? - Thorens Dept.

I also sell a thorens belt that is imported from Germany and made to the proper oem specs. A bit more, but thought I' did mention in case. Thorens can be temperamental about the belt.

NEW Never Used: Thorens Replacement Belt (Original Specs) TD125, 145, 160, Etc. | eBay

I can also get a bulk pack of 6, 9, and 12mm screws if needed

 

Jelloalien (love the handle)
I have indeed previously checked out the Thorens Dept. web site - Without it I doubt that my table would sing the way it does. Another quintessential site is of course AR Turntable Vinyl Nirvana Acoustic Research Merrill Thorens For Sale where Dave is probably the foremost expert on Thorens Tables in North America. His YouTube videos are the best in the business I think as per:


Not a one of these sites that I can tell really discusses the removal procedure of the poor quality face plate of the TD-165 as discussed in the above video unfortunately. Looks like there is a need so I will figure it out and do up and post a Youtube video for others to do (or not do) what I end up figuring out. As for belts, I have tried a few various belts for my Thorens but my goto belt is now the Thakker ones from Germany. They are top notch and have solved many problems with speed and reliability for me. A little pricier than most but they, as my daughter would say, are the shizzit (meaning a great thing I guess)!

Here is what Vinyl Nirvana sells online for headshells - pricey yes but apparently very good: Thorens TP-60 Headshell for TD-160, 145, 165, 125 Turntable with Extras! | eBay (last one left apparently)

 

I have a TD 166 MK2 with a plastic subplatter on a 10mm bearing. Spins silently. Do the transport screws need to be totally unscrewed for optimal operation or just partially unscrewed will do ?

 

Who would have guessed?

 

Hello all, Can anyone help with this problem, When I switch from tunetable off to 33 never really use 45 much on my td 166 mk 11 or even 33 to off the platter and arm sort of tremble not bounce but tremble for a few seconds, It's quite slight and soon settles down, But I don't know why, Any thoughts could it be something nasty or not so bad. Thanks for any ideas.

 

Does anyone have any experience of using a 10mm zinc subplatter (from a TD 160) in a TD 165?

Would there be a performance improvement, in terms of platter stability and overall sound? And would installing the zinc subplatter require other mods to the TT, due to the extra weight? (E.g upgrades to the motor, or adjustments to the springs?) I have researched these questions online and... the jury's out!

Alternatively, is there anything I can do to eliminate the wobbling I am getting from my resin sub platter. I have tried cleaning and reoiling the spindle shaft, not to much avail (although I wonder if I could clean again, but more thoroughly)

And I am sure that the subplatter is what is causing the whole platter to wobble. It's not a critical problem, though I am sure that eliminating the wobbles will be better for my records' sound and longevity!

 

https://flic.kr/p/26fU2sS

I purchased one of Vinyl Nirvana’s top plates for my TD165. With the instructions provided by them, it was pretty straightforward.

I haven’t quite figured out how to post the image here, but the link works.