Improving power for apartment / condo dwellers

I find the entire topic of power improvements a bit confusing. First, there is the debate about whether anything can really be improved if you're ultimately plugging into the same power grid as everyone else. Then there are all of the various options (power conditioners, distributors, connectors, filters, inlets, receptacles, grounding, etc).

I've seen enough people here and elsewhere who believe in the improvements that I'm somewhat convinced, though I don't mind if others wish to discuss this topic here as well. It seems that the best option is always separate dedicated power for a listening room. Like many apartment / condo dwellers, I'm not sure that is an option for me (how would I even do that if I wanted to make the investment?).

Since I live in a big city in a neighborhood known for tech startups dirtying up the power grid day and night, in a building with constantly flickering lights, I'm fairly confident improving my power situation is the next big area I'll tackle.

I currently plug my amp directly into the wall and everything else into a Cable Pro Revelation II Power Strip. I did notice a big improvement when I added the Cable Pro, so I'm hoping more investment in this area will yield even more improvements (I'd like to move the Cable Pro to my tv room, so I'm ok upgrading that entire area).

Where do I start? Where will I get the most sonic bang for my buck? What are the key areas to focus on?

If I were prepared to spend the following amounts, how would you recommend allocating that budget?

• $500
• $1,000
• $1,500
• $2,000
• $3,000

 

In your situation, a power regenerator would be a very worthwhile investment. PS Audio makes some of the best. The only issue there is they don't make enough power for he-man amps.

If you are in a condo, talk to an electrician about adding dedicated lines. That wouldn't help much with dirty power coming in, but it will take your audio gear off the other things in your condo adding noise to the line. I doubt that apartment management would let you do anything.

 

Are you referring to something like their Power Plant series?

I'm a bit confused as to how this line is different from a power conditioner. Can you explain?

 

Yes, I am.

Power conditioners can help remove some noise from the line, but their effectiveness at removing noise varies greatly. A regenerator outputs a perfect sinewave providing 100% noise free power. They are not affected by the quality of power coming in, which in your case seems to be pretty bad.

 

I'm looking into this too. I live in (and own) a flat (apartment) here in the UK but our circumstances are a bit different. We have 240volts and our electricity is said to be pretty clean. We also have three phases of electricity but I'm not clear how that effects anything.

In my flat my electricity comes in to a consumer unit (fuse box). I can't do anything beyond that. Further down the line I have a meter and isolator switch in a communal cupboard. After the consumer unit the electricity is split up into 'rings', one for the kitchen, one for wall sockets excepting the kitchen, one for lights, and a couple of others for an immersion heater and shower. Each circuit has it's own contact breaker in the consumer unit.

My hi-fi therefore at the moment feeds off the wall socket circuit. I have nothing else working on that circuit when I listen to music (so for example the fridge is on the kitchen circuit). In addition I have a Shunyata Hydra and all my hi-fi gear is plugged into this. In these circumstances, would adding a new circuit make any difference? I don't know and it seems there's only one way to find out and that is to do it. I assume it won't do any harm.

The most recommended improvements (from my internet travels) are to have a separate circuit, or 'radial circuit' (spur) exclusively for the hi-fi with its own circuit breaker. That means an additional wire out of the consumer unit with a new circuit breaker to a new socket. Variables are the quality of the wiring (from just bigger standard wire to fancy 'audiophile grade' weaved highest purity copper £65/metre), the socket (standard, better standard, 'hospital grade', 'audiophile grade'), the actual circuit breaker (no idea about quality but some apparently sound different to others), and how it is earthed. Some say a separate, single circuit breaker consumer unit, would be better still (a typical single circuit breaker consumer unit costs £20. An audiophile upgrade of this, 'treated with DeoxIT', costs £129!).

On costs, using standard wire and sockets etc. I guess we are talking a few hundred pounds including labour. With out labour and using so called audiophile grade material the costs for me are around £800. The cost of an electricity regenerator or power conditioner plus associated cables is considerably more. The Hydra does reduce background noise - it's most noticeable when removing it from the chain. However, better CD players for example also reduce background noise.

Discussing these things with an ordinary electrician engenders bemusement. It would be best to find an electrician who has done this work. Where are they?!

On a side note, it is often said that electricity is cleaner at night and that is the reason for improvements in listening. I can't argue with that but it is also usually the case that environmental background noise is also less at night (less traffic, less talking etc.) and that allows for apparent better hearing at these times. I suspect it is the latter that has the greater impact on improved sound late at night.

 

Why is this do you think? Do they think it is a load of crap?

 

Seems like before spending money the best idea is to figure out specifically what, if anything, is wrong with the power at the socket -- voltage variation? line noise -- if so what sort of line noise and what's the source? DC on the line (are your transformers buzzing?)?

Then you need to find fixes to the specific problems you're experiencing without making things worse (for example you could use an UPS built for computers for regulation but I don't think it outputs a pure sine wave which may or may not make a difference for certain audio components -- esp. I would think turntables with AC synchronous motors). The best thing to do first is to remove the sources of line noise from the line you're using to power the system to the extent possible, using a dedicated circuit for audio. This can be hard in an apartment, but motors, condensers, dimmers, etc.

I think in a lot of cases if there's line noise, a simple isolation transformer with shield between the windings can be all you need. If you need voltage regulation or suppression of the type of noise rejected by an simple iso transformer, you can look into things regenerators. But don't forget your gear is rectifying the AC signal -- it's passing through a transformer and being filtered and regulated before powering the audio circuits. As with anything, finding out what if any specific problem exists with your individual set up and addressing it, rather than just generally throwing money broadly at power problems that may or may not exist, is the best way to go.

I'd love to hear from a tech about different factors and techniques for filtering common mode vs. differential mode noise on AC lines.

 

Maybe a stupid suggestion but perhaps have a professional take a look at your AC mains and determine what if anything could be a problem.

 

Brian you still back in the glorious US of A comrade?

 

Hipper's post is a pretty good survey of the issues. Living in an apartment or condo limits your options. Even if the spur or line is one that has nothing else working on it when listening to hi fi, there are two reasons why running a new, high quality dedicated line may be beneficial- the state of the wiring and connections if they are old; and the possibility that even if other things on that line aren't operating, their connection to the line may add potential noise. Even in a single family house, running dedicated lines with high quality wire/connectors/receptacles will not isolate the system power from the rest of the household system- if there is a noisy appliance on a different 'spur,' you can still hear it, since the entire household system shares ground.
I have had various line conditioners at different times and could hear their effects. I prefer to run the system without any power conditioning. I've never run a regenerator and never saw the need for one- my power is clean out in the countryside. I could see using conditioning or regeneration if your power was noisy.
I bought, but haven't installed, a very large balanced power system, meant for installation as a wall cabinet, with a 10 kVa isolation transformer. One advantage of these, subject to code compliance, is that they can be fed by entirely separate service, separate from the household system. (There are issues about sharing ground across systems that raise code problems). Those are made in smaller sizes, and as moveable components (rather than a permanent installation as a wall cabinet). My only concern would be transformer hum for the smaller ones (they look like big amplifiers in rack mount sized chassis) if placed in the listening area.
I agree that electricians may know electricity, and code, but not necessarily what you need to do for best practices with hi-fi. Gauge, quality of components, checking legs (not an issue in the UK as far as I know), polarity of wiring to the box.
I worked up a spec sheet with some help from some fellow audiophiles who were licensed electrical contractors (though not in my area) and printed it out for my electrician. He had no problem understanding it. I guess the best option would be to find an electrical contractor who has done professional venue installations, or a designer/builder/studio owner who has an electrician who has worked with them and has done this stuff before.
My system is very, very quiet- the biggest devil, using 104db efficient speakers, turned out to be inter-component grounding. The idea of putting everything on one circuit is appealing for grounding reasons. I've used some crude external star grounding, not at the level of the uber stuff now on the market (which I understand is pretty amazing).
I will be revisiting all of this once I finally relocate and do a new build-out. Chervokas' idea of using an isolation transformer is a good one- again, not sure I'd want it in the listening area, because transformers can hum, but otherwise can be done relatively cheaply by a good electrical contractor.
For the UK, Roy Gregory, the reviewer, has a pretty complete set-up and is probably reachable to discuss. Definitive Audio/Living Voice in the UK also makes a complete battery-based power system for hi-fi, but it is pretty pricey.

 

Richard Gray's Power Company stuff is good.

 

If you are looking for brand suggestions, then absolutely check out Torus Power. http://www.toruspower.com/

These are the best that I have ever used/sold. (and I have tried quite a few of them)

Look at the TOT series (for a smaller chassis unit) or the RM series if you don't mind a larger chassis.

 

Those are supposed to be very good isolation transformers- the only thing I would question is any 'filtering' or conditioning that is added as p/o the products. While I can't say I've heard every power conditioner on the market (wouldn't even try to), the ones I have heard all changed the sound- but the idea of an isolation transformer is solid, as is the balanced power approach (though I know some who have questioned the need for it).

 

As mentioned above, your only real option is a Power Regeneration type device, like those from PS Audio. Although they are not typically rated for high-current amps, my own experience is that any <250wpc amp should be fine for use with the PS Audio P3 unit @ $2,500. I think the benefits would be obvious to you, especially considering your poor power situation.

EDIT: a P3 supports up to 750watts of continuous power. I think most would struggle to get to half that draw from normal A/V devices, without difficulty.

 

This is a copy and paste from a post I made recently on another site, I removed some stuff that's mostly self-promotional. It's more info than you asked for but it should answer your question too.

I wanted to go over my theory on power distribution and one way power cables can easily make an audible difference in your system. I have read a lot online about installing dedicated power circuits from your service panel to your audio system. This post will go over why you want to run ONE circuit, and power your system from ONE receptacle. This will also explain how your power cables can make an audible difference in your system... I have heard a lot of theories but this is very simple and almost always overlooked.

First, lets look at a simple, rather poorly drawn diagram of what the connections between the ground planes of your components might look like when they are plugged into two different receptacles in your house. I often hear about running a separate line for power amps, this makes things even worse than the diagram below. The diagram below assumes the 2 receptacles are on the same circuit. If they are not then the ground will only be tied together at the service entrance, which makes for an even longer ground path.



You can see in the diagram above that there are 2 paths tying the components' grounds together, the interconnect cables and the power cables + the ground wire run in between the two receptacles. Any potential difference between the components' ground planes will cause current to flow in these wires, including the "return" from signal transmission. The return path is being shared by the interconnects and power ground. Noise generated by potential differences in ground planes is a function of the resistance between them, so adding a bunch of wire and connectors in your house's electrical system to this is not ideal, nor is having the return path include this wiring ideal, and this is the reason power cables can be audible. Nothing to do with AC power transmission at all in this case! .

In the diagram below you will see what it looks like when you use a single receptacle and power distribution block. Now we have eliminated the ground wiring in the house's electrical system from tying the components' ground planes together. We have also greatly reduced any chances of potential differences between grounding points, since there is now only ONE point where the system is grounded to.

I have heard other people suggest that the power amp should be the only component grounded, but this is dangerous as it increases the impedance of the ground path in every other component and is likely against code to "lift" the ground of a component that is meant to be grounded. The interconnects may not provide a low enough impedance path to ground, meaning the safety ground may not function as well as it should. Some IC cables use very thin ground wire and the internal wiring inside the component may also be of insufficient gauge to provide proper safety grounding. This is ok to do as a test to find issues but should not be a permanent arrangement, and if you follow my advice here it should reduce any effect lifting grounds will have.



In the diagram above you can also see that the power distribution block has the potential to protect your equipment from surges... including surges generated inside your house by electric motors starting and stopping, such as washers, dryers, dishwashers and refrigerators. These devices also produce noise, which could be filtered out by the power distribution block. I hear a lot of people wanting to put a whole house surge suppressor on their service inlet, which isn't a bad idea, but those devices are MOV-based and noisy, so again, it's best for your power distribution block to eliminate surges and filter noise.

This is why I have bought a bunch of SurgeX power distribution systems, which I will refurbish and upgrade using higher quality wiring, connectors, and receptacles. SurgeX devices feature a surge elimination system that is non-MOV based and patented. SurgeX's customers include Carnegie Hall, Yankees Stadium, The Kimmel Center, NASA and more. The 2 devices I have chosen are the SEQ, a 20 amp capacity unit that features sequential startup and shutdown with 3 timed banks of receptacles and one always on bank, and the SX-1120-RT, which is basically the same without sequencing.

http://www.surgex.com/products/rackmount-sequencers-product-line.html

http://www.surgex.com/products/rackmount-product-line.html

 

I use a P3 in my home theater setup, and with everything turned on (TV, amp, preamp, PS4 or Blu-Ray), I'm drawing right around 210-230 watts. It should be noted the P3 only regenerates electricity on 6 of the 8 outputs... the other two outlets are high current filtered. The P5 and the P10 regenerate electricity over all 8 outlets.

 

Good point, I forgot about the two High Current outputs not getting regenerated power. So basically those two are "ultra filtered"... my term. Although I don't plug my amps or plasma into the P3 (they have their own dedicated outlets, with a TVSS at the breaker panel), I normally draw about 212watts with everything on that I need to watch a movie.

 

I run a small isolation transformer in my listening room for my audio system which gives me a derived ground for the audio stuff and no DC reaching the audio stuff and it seems to work fine. There is very rarely occasional hum from the iso transformer, mostly commonly on days when it's very wet and rainy, but otherwise it's quite quiet.

 

I'll second the PS Audio P3, P5, or P10. My plasma, Reference 5SE, Stereo 100, and Modwright Oppo 105 are all plugged into my P5, and they love the clean juice.

 

Dave: what's the relationship between Surgex and Zerosurge? I have one of the latter, but I don't use it on anything in the audio path. I agree with what you've said about ground planes. But leaving surge protection aside for the moment, you can achieve what you are talking about through a single receptacle, distribution block without any bells and whistles, ala the British approach, no?

 

Yes, the distribution block is key and a simple one will do what I am saying wrt ground planes. SurgeX uses the zerosurge technology and adds a lot more on top of that, such as EMI/RFI filtering, under/over voltage shutdown, inrush current limiting and sequential startup/shutdown. There are lots of sources of surges and emi in your house and the SurgeX will protect your equipment from those issues, which results in a more relaxed, less fatiguing sound from your system.

 

Thanks. Ever check out the Environmental Potentials product? I gather it uses an MOV plus other 'stuff.'

 

I have not looked into EP very closely, it probably is a hybrid-MOV surge suppressor + other stuff depending on the model. I prefer SurgeX due to their patented surge suppression that doesn't dump noise or surge energy into the ground system. They have an impressive list of clients, from installs in Carnegie Hall and Yankees Stadium, to NASA using their gear. Stock, they make a nice improvement to the sound I'm getting at home and I think the refurb'ed ones I'm making will be a good bit better than stock from a sound quality perspective.

 

The op mentioned 'lights flickering'. For that problem, which is low voltage due to power surges (IE things like refrigerators/air onditioners turning on) you could use a voltage stabilizer.
The main one I knew of was the Monster AVS2000. All it did was keep the line votage stable. It is no longer made, but other devices also can stabilize the voltage, Furman 'P factor' conditioners includes a stiffening capacitor to helps keep the votage at the desired level.
(I am not certain, but Torus conditioners may also do this, bur do not quote me on that)
Computer power devices may have this feature available also. (but they may not be rated for the wattage most audiophiles would need)

I would also mention regenerators use up a lot more power since they are basically an amplifier generating a sine wave. So if you are seriously not wanting to waste energy, regenerators waste a lot. The old ones being worse than the latest models. Also regenerators do NOT make a 'perfect' sine wave. They make a better one than the mush from the wall, but it may still be not perfect. usually the new power will be much better, but not perfect.

I live in an apartment. The number one thing to do is replace the wall outlets. The new ones can be ordinary outlets. The reason is no outlets on rented dwellings get replaced until they fail. So when I move in, i put all new outlets in myself. At my cost. No problem. $3 each for heavy duty Pass & Seymour. I clean off the ends of the wires too when i swap in the new outlets.. And I really improved the power flow.

I use two conditioners. An older PS Audio P600 I bought used for just a few digital items. Thus it only powers 40 watts of equipment. And thus uses up less power altogether. To regenerate 40 watts takes it about 80 watts to do.
For my main conditioner I use a Furman REF20i which has the stiffening cap to smooth over the 'flickering lights' problem of low voltage dips. That one power all the non digital gear including the amp and video stuff. I found that one used at a good price also.

And finally you can creat as many headaches adding new lines as not. Electricians do not care about your fantasy of perfect power and grounds. they will stick in whatever, without much thought. And you CAN end up with ground problems worse than you had before spending a small fortune.
In the op case he already has direct lines with nothing else on them. that is the best one can want. Period. Purists aside, he already has good lines. So just cleaning up the outlet could be all he needs to do 'in the wall'.
For the sagging power you can see in the hall? Well the halls may have fifty lights on one circuit. And that is right next to some heavy motor.. Like a AC line, or the electric water heater line. Which sages just the hall lights. Do your apartment lights sag/dim???

 

I've had significant improvements (lower noise floor) with the Shunyata PS8/Defender combo at around $900. I have also used their power cables which work very well from Venom to Reference line.

I had a Monster HTS-5100 but it hurt dynamics a bit and did not lower the noise floor anywhere on the level of the Shunyata.