Is there a proper ratio of cartridge to 'table cost?

As the build/performance quality of a turntable/arm combo improves the ratio between it and a better cartridge increases. Unfortunately, there is no definitive guideline as to what that ratio should be, so one is tasked into setting your own parameter(s). I'm speaking about entry-level TT/Arm combos here as the ratio between higher-end product doesn't quite reach that same level of price differential.

 

My table was $4000. My favorite cart, and I've tried higher end cards, is the MLX150 which I think was around $350. I would say price has nothing to do with it. Enjoy what your ears tells you is best. I tried more expensive cards only because of the psychology of "the table was expensive so there is no way this $350 cart can be doing a good job." An expensive psych out. But I've satisfied my mind. You might want to buy from Amazon...then you can easily return it if you feel your table isn't doing it justice.

 

Get a good table (used is great if you find a good one).

Spend $250 minimum on a cart . Easy.

 

if you have to use a guideline i'd say up to a 2k tt...minimum, about a third of the cost...to get the best from both

 

There is no ratio, never has been, never will be. There is no possible way to talk about a ratio, when what we will perceive and like, are totally subjective.
E.g. I bought my TT used for 140€, I modified it for 200€. Which cartridge I use is irrelevant, they will perform as good as they possibly can.

 

If you want to taste the MC sound, the Denon DL-110 is a good place to start. Musical, big soundstage, and it's high output. Uses the MM inputs on a pre-amp.
I am on my second one, and like it a lot.

 

2M Black is very sensitive to VTA and azimuth. I don't believe U-turn arm has adjustment for either. Agree with @KT88, Planar 3 would serve you well, provided you get a trouble-free specimen, and the 2M Bronze would probably be a better choice for the arm than the Black, generally.

 

Orbit has azimuth but not VTA adjustment.

 

I'm considering the Denon DL301 MKII, I'm trying to find out if it works well with a phono stage with fixed impedance on 100Ohm and if being high compliance it would match my medium mass tonearm.

 

Why? Could you please elaborate it or forward me to a post where you may have done that before ?

 

I have an Ortofon Quintet Blue MC. $524. Sounds great. Keep an open mind and trust your ears.

 

Up to $2K or so I like the ~ 1:1 approach as long as your tonearm / cartridge relationship puts you near the 10Hz resonant frequency and your phono stage can handle the demands of the cartridge- and you pick good performance for the dollar.

 

McLover's Law: Limit the Shibata, SAS, Micro-Ridge, FineLine, etc fancy exotic tips to use only on tonearms with VTA/SRA adjustments. And also on properly matched tonearms.

 

I’d be very interested to compare that to the 2m black.

 

I agree there is no ratio AT ALL, and it doesn't matter what you spend. But about "better", I would say the same about cart, turntable or tonearm. Any time you upgrade one of these you will get better sound. And agree again, that the tonearm mass and cartridge compliance should match for best sound.

I have used a new high-end stone-body Koetsu cart on an old VPI HW-19 and old Zeta tonearm with wonderful results.

 

Buy more records...

 

DL-301 II has an internal impedance of 33 Ohm, if my memory serves me right. Suitable loading for it, therefore, would be about 330 Ohm, give or take a few. You may like it at 100 Ohm, but it may not be the optimal. Being a high-compliance cart, the Carbon tonearm of your Pro-Ject is a much better fit for it than the PLX arm, believe it or not. I'm in the same boat - I have a 301 I'd love to install on one of my Jelco arms, but I realize the Carbon arm of my Debut is a better fit, so - that's where it's going, more likely than not (unless I get another table with a low-mass arm some time soon).

If you can tell me the effective mass of the PLX arm - I can crunch the numbers for you and get the resonant frequency for the cart. My guess - it's not a good match, and the frequency will be out of range. If you are absolutely adamant to have the 301 on the PLX arm - you may consider getting a fluid damper from KAB. It was designed for the old Technics 1200 decks, and KAB himself claims they don't fit the PLX arm, and refuses to install them. But - there's plenty of people on this forum who have installed the KAB damper on the PLX arms themselves, and with great results. So - it works. The fluid damper would alleviate the resonance issue on the PLX arm, but, honestly - IMO it's just too much trouble. Put the 301 on the Carbon, or use another cart on the PLX, but that's just friendly advise, the decision is yours, of course. Overcoming obstacles is part of the hobby, as well.\

Coming back to the loading part, with LOMC carts many people feel that the proper loading is a lot more important than gain. The gain can always be compensated for by the phono pre, the loading cannot, if you don't have the proper setting on your phono. Those phono's that have pre-set loading values probably would not have a "330" loading value. You will be lucky to find one that has a "300" setting, that will be close enough. Otherwise, look for rotary control dials for loading, like Pro-Ject Tube Box DS has.

Another alternative would be a 1:12 SUT. The 301 cart would see a load of 326 Ohm - very close, and the resulting voltage would be a respectable 4.8 mV - enough to run into a regular 40 dB MM phono. That route, of course, is expensive, as well.

 

I used the 301MkII on my Jelco arm and it sounded lovely.

I use the TubeBox DS currently and the loading adjustment 'on the fly' is very useful, especially if you change out carts on a regular basis. I really rate that phono amp, and it also allows for gain adjustment via a set of jumpers on the back into the bargain!

 

This is why I use a high output MC cart...

 

The black is a very good cartridge, the same actually as the bronze, except for the stylus profile. The Black tends to be a bit more revealing of record surface condition and so can be more of a tool for QC than for enjoyment. It sounds great on new records but you'll hear any dust as well. The Bronze sounds a touch softer and has a very low record surface noise floor. So the Bronze is just easier to listen to and is less expensive.
-Bill

 

This

 

Bill, I also hear that the Black can be a bit of a sod to set up; I have not had that cartridge but have had some of the tweaking runaround with the AT33PTG/II. I secretly quite enjoy the thrill of the chase!

 

Interesting.

I started with the Bronze and upgraded to Black at first stylus change.

I definitely wouldn't go back to the Bronze, even though it is an excellent cartridge.

Most of my LPs are old/used, but on my, admittedly modest, system the Black is just fabulous.

 

@Gasman1003 how did you find setting up, did you have to keep adjusting, listening, going back and retweaking etc?

 

No.

I had a dealer install the Bronze when I had my old Thorens/SME serviced, my old eyes/fingers are what they were!

Then it is a very simple matter to change stylus.

To be fair, I'm not a great one for tweaking, as my listening space isn't the greatest.

That said, the 2M Black is a revelation, I never get tired of listening to it.

It performs beautifully at stylus force of 1.5g, which is actually the maximum my arm allows.

On my budget I can't imagine a better cartridge for my needs, just hope they continue to manufacture it.