Leveling turntable with bubble levels query. How exact should the bubble be centered?

While I wait for my VPI Classic, I was looking at my Scout and looking at the platter level again. I have a circular level that came with my Benz Ace cartridge and also a 12" torpedo type level from a hardware store.
As I place the two levels at various places, the bubble in the levels is in the center, but not always exactly in the center or exactly the same place in different locations on the platter.
For example with the circular level, there is a ring in the center of the level, and the bubble is always inside this ring but it maybe slightly off to one side in one location and slightly off to another side on another spot on the turntable.

Is it good enough that the bubble is always in the center ring of the circular level as close to centered as possible or should the bubble be dead center inside the ring and or other markers on the level?

Thanks,

-- Sanjay

 

I had I assume the same level with my old Benz Ruby.
I experienced the same thing as you.
I don't think that level is very good, nor do I know of any that I would trust.
In this case I'd say it's close enough and that's all it will ever be.
Having been involved in construction surveying, using precision instruments I think these tools are very suspect.

 

If your turntable and platter are leveled correctly, the bubble should always be in the exact center. You should keep adjusting your feet (or whatever other level adjustments their are) until the bubble level is the same everywhere.

FWIW, I find those circular levels very hard to read. I'd use the torpedo level at various positions on the platter.

 

Dead center.

Never rule out the possibility that the equipment rack/wall mount/card table is the source of the problem.

Make sure that whatever the turntable is sitting on is level and stable. More mass-loading seems to be helpful.

 

+1

I use a short torpedo level. Placed to measure at least side to side, and front to back. I suppose if you really want you could even do corners to corners. To me it is easier to read and has covers a longer surface area reducing the margin of error.

 

I use two short torpedo levels at the same time. One is aligned from right to left and the other front to back. I don't stop fiddling until both of them measure dead-center.

 

This is also what I used to do in the old days when setting up Linn's for people.

 

Be sure your level is level first.

easiest way to do this is to find a reasonably level place like a counter top set the level on it. Look closely at the bubble noting exactly how far from one of the lines the bubble lies. Then turn the level 180 degrees. If the level is accurate it should show the bubble exactly the same place. if not try a shim (piece of business card note book paper cardboard etc. when you get an exact match both directions tape that shim to the end of the level and use it that way.

When I bought my 4 foot level I use for carpentry work I tested 10 levels in the store before I found one that was accurate.

DO NOT ASSUME A LEVEL IS LEVEL and the shorter the level the easier it is the get a bad one. I check my short levels while they sit on top of my 4 footer.

 

totally agree. I tested several and found them inaccurate. Mcmaster sells them with a guarantee of accuracy and I have bought a few over the years and they work well.

 

I recently installed a target wall mount and it slightly crooked. I don't really have the room to reinstall it, so I am looking for something that will rise the left side of the TT slightly. Any ideas?

 

I picked up a higher-accuracy, machined flat bottom round bullseye bubble level from mcmaster carr. Along with some other goodies useful for setting up turntables, like little micro-rulers (machinist style). I had used a cheap hardware store level and the one that came with my benz cart, both were not nearly as accurate as this thing. I could spin the cheap level and get a different reading. The one I bought in the link below reads the same no matter what.


I check 3 points on the platter towards the center and towards the edge on my gyrodec. Since my table is spring loaded I adjust the sub-chassis first, then the springs for the platter. Keep in mind with a suspended design (which your scout is not) you need to consider the weight of the level, so not easy to use a larger type level with my setup.


here's a link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#

the levels, part number 2198A86: http://www.mcmaster.com/#bull's-eye-levels/=5f2nis

Rulers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#rulers/=5f2q0s

 

remove

 

I have a level that fits over the spindle and lp. I can check each time I play an lp. Is this a good idea, or should I place a level on the base of the unit. I use a Thorens TD-160 deck

 

I get the TT wallshelf level then put the TT on. The weight of this causes the shelf to go slightly off-level, so I adjust the spiks on the shelf go bring everything back up to level again. I have a spirit level from the now-defunct Mana Acoustics which sits on the platter, over the spindle to I can be sure that the platter is dead-level. Fiddly and perhaps a bit nerdy and over-the-top. But I'm like that.