Thanks Erocka. I'm wondering what a pair of matched 845's should idle at before setting the bias to 70. For example, maybe there's an acceptable range we should expect from healthy new 845's. Say for example, should both tubes optimally idle at 65, or somewhere between 60 and 65? And then give 10% to 15% leeway difference between matched tubes. Knowing what to expect would provide 845 owners some helpful info, and hopefully some peace of mind when checking new tubes. Thanks again for any advice.
Just noticed on Upscale Audio's site in the Tube Basis and FAQ section, there's mention of how some manufactures might want their tubes to idle at 50, or have a range of 40 to 50 or 55 to 65. But I can't find anything online regarding Psvane 845's specifically.
I think all that matters is that you set the bias on them to match (at 70). What they read when you aren't playing them or before you set the bias? Who cares? I just reset the bias on both of my WE845s yesterday. I usually check the bias every 6 months or so, and I usually find that they have drifted downward to the 60-65 range. I also fine-tune the speed of my turntable with a strobe disc at the same time. That required a tiny adjustment this time, which impresses the hell out of me for a 50+ year old table.
Thanks Ian. My dealer recommender I send them back. And I thought this is for the safety of the amp. So I'm confused. I realize I can just set the bias to 70. But isn't it important for the amp to have something much closer to matched than a starting point of 40 and 65 (my new "matched" tubes)? I thought it's ok if the other tubes aren't matched, but power tubes should be? Thanks for your help.
Hi. First post. Just wondering if you ran the 274B on the 518 with no adjustments; I have been eyeing the Psvane 274B-T-mkII but can’t see if this amp ok with the 1.9 A filament currrnt vs 2A of the GZ34 5AR4 and if any adjustments would be needed? Advice appreciated.
After ~100hrs of time on my newly purchased Psvane WE845's I've started to notice a discolouration (?) near the getter. Is this normal behaviour for a power tube? I've tried to capture this in the photos for diagnosis.
It is really hard to tell if it's coming from the inside of the tube or not. When the amp is off everything looks perfectly transparent. I'll investigate further and let you know what I find.
As long as it doesn't turn milky white, you should be okay. If it does turn milky white, it means the tube is leaking somewhere and should be replaced.
The reason I ask is that I touched one of my 845 tubes with a dust rag when I thought it hadn't heated up yet. The dust that was already on the rag adhered to the outer glass of the tube and baked right on because it was so hot. It is on there permanently now. Doesn't affect the function of the tube at all, of course. Since yours doesn't show up once the amp is off then I assume it is something different, probably on the inside of the tube.
I have that on my stock tubes. They seem fine - sound good and last time I check the bias it looked to have drifted a tiny bit to 72
Got it. I reached out to Grant Fidelity and they had a couple of thoughts: * In general, the discoloration is from gas being absorbed in the tube -- that's what the coating was there for (I don't know what coating they're referring to) * If tubes are biasing normal and hold bias fine, I would say it is not something to be concerned (they hold bias just fine)
Hello people ! Will some some to help me about the re-caps "CORRECT PINS NUMBERS for 2x 0.022uF and 2x 0.1uF ,I used (600Vdc Jupiter Copper Foil, Paper & Wax).However I miss matched correct position pin Numbers on those two 9 pins sockets 12AXT-So far I had damaged 2 Jupiter Copper Foil caps already due to twist the caps so many times by change their position for correct pin number,but not succeed (if right side speaker sound the Left no sound. and of opposite thing happen left work right is no-work.Once I make both side work but it were in Mono.Laugh !!!
Hi there. I am new to this forum although I have benefitted from reading posts quite many times over the years. I am a regular at the Pink Fish Forum with the same user name. I have bought a s/h Line Magnetic 502CA which will be delvered after March 17. It will only be used with computer audio. And for this I have three different configurations that I can use in my study where I have my main system + a dedicated music player and a desk top computer: 1) sound card ESI Juli@ coax out into the Line Magnetic 502CA 2) computer with externally powered Paul Pang USB card mk1 --> Line Magnetic 502CA 3) computer onboad USB out into externally powered Nuforce U192S USB to Spdif-converter ---> Line Magnetic 502CA I have High hopes for the Line Magnetic 502CA and I reality appreciate the wealth of information collected in this thread!
Welcome to the forum, Rosewind! We will look forward to your impressions! I have the 502CA and I am very happy with it: I just run it straight from my laptop USB out.
If anyone is passing through Hong Kong and would like to buy my LM 215CD player or 502CA I will sell them for a good deal. PM me if interested.
Thanks Snoflo. I wonder if anyone has listed to this against an EAR DACute? It is a long shot, but I have just been offered one for what I consider a good price. However, it will cost me 3,5 times as much as the s/h LM 502CA.
Sorry, no: never heard the EAR. I've heard the 502 against the Schiit Gungnir and Audio-gd DACs. I preferred the 502.
Oh, if anyone's interested, the Psvane 845T-IIs have settled in and are a very nice upgrade over the stock tubes.
I just received the Line Magnetic 502CA Dac. - It is NOT gold as the photo on the dealer website had me believe. - Also it is a Chinese import - no EU-hand-book. - No driver cd with USB-drivers. - Loose non standard opamp inside the DAC It looks like it is a single Burson Opamp that floats around inside the LM 502CA. It is meant to go in the vacant spot to the right of the other OP-amps, I think. Is that really a standard modification? I have only seen the two left-hand opamps replaced with red Burson opamps. The two black opamps on the left read: RM5532D/883 CRAY P9224N Are these standard ones? If it is okay to use the red Burson v5 opampin the vacant slot on the right - which way does it turn? See photo. Thanks!
Here is the photo on the dealer website: I would have added it to the previous post but I am so new here that my posts are closely monitored.
