I hope someone can chime in with some knowledge (I have nada). I can take a picture of the inside of my unit if you wish. You can get the USB driver directly from Line Magnetic's website. Failing that, you can get it from me (it's a Windows 10 driver, though) if I can figure out how to upload it. The 502ca comes in both gold and silver options.
Thanks. A photo would be great! And a download link for the USB driver. I use Win 10 and win server 2012/2016 on my 3 computers that I use around the house. Well, being who I am, I put the Burson opamp in the vacant slot and duly toasted the Burson. After a minute a hot smell spread n my music room. Off with the Opamp. Then I played the LM502CA for 5 minutes without anything in that slot and got nice sound from both the transistor and the valve output. I could hear a very distinct difference between the two outputs, which means that it plays via Coax. The best part is that I did not brick my unit by using the loose Burson opamp. The dealer has offered to take it back, so I should not be complaining too much. I really just need to decide if I want to keep the unit. So I will use it heavily today and test all its inputs and listen in carefully to hear it's sound signatures from the two outputs. Then I will pop in the upgrade Mullard and Tungsol valves I already bought for it. I would like to hear some opinions about where to use standard and upgrade opamps in the Line Magnetic 502CA.
My Line Magnetic 502CA has a buzz that can be heard on both the transsistor and the valve outputs when no music is playing. That means I can try to: - move the LM502CA away from the EAR 802 preamp - change the connection to another power outlet for the LM502CA - check/change the interconnects and the coax cable. Could buzz be carried from my standard computer to the LM502CA through the long coax cable? I will check to see if anything changes if I change computer source. - change valves in the LM502CA Anything else?
How is the coax cable connected to the computer? I'd imagine such a setup would involve a USB to SPDIF converter that would almost inherently involve proper isolation? I don't think the valves would be involved. I'd also advise not wasting time listening to the transistor outputs. They only exist because Chinese audio gear insists on selectable modes, not because there is any value to the sound.
Thanks I use an ESI Juli@ sound card which has coax out. I will see if using a USB to spdif converter gets rid of the buzz, or if using a fanless CAPS music player with Paul Pang USB out (+ usb to spdif converter) gets rid of the noise. There is also the possibility that the small active speakers that I use while my power amp is with EAR Yoshino in the UK play a role as the powered one is right next to the computer. I will go on with the testing. The transistor output sounds leaner than the valve output. That is my first observation. I expect to use the valve output only after I upgrade the three valves.
UPDATE: The buzz persists with: - transistor and valve outputs - different power cables - different interconnects (RCA/Phono) - different amps (EAR 802 pre into active speakers / Leak stereo 70 (solid state) - different outlets - coax out from my sound card - usb out into a usb to spdif converter To go: - different and shorter COAX cable - USB input - Change valves The Line Magnetic 502CA sounds surprisingly good through my Leak Stereo 70 and JBL LX310 speakers. The buzz can only be heard on quiet music passages. When I stop playback - the buzz is clearly audible. I have never had buzz like this from any source before.
Problem solved! I found a photo online where a standard opamp occupied the vacant slot. I checked the Burson home page for directionality and popped in the Burson opamp in the correct direction - and hoped the meled red plastic was nothing too bad. The buzz went away leaving only music and silence. I just wonder how much difference the Burson upgrade makes in the position that it is in now - the single opamp slot towards the right side of the DAC? What has worked the best for you who have tried upgrading the opamps? Or isn't it worthwhile to upgrade all the opamps?
I have exchanged the standard valves with 2x Mullard and 1x Tungsol as someone suggested earlier in this thread. These valves are as new and will need some use to sound their best but this combination of valves make my 400£ active speakers sound like much better power amp speakers. I have been using the DAC directly into my powered speakers while trouble-shooting. Today the buzz-free DAC will be moved into its permanent position in my rack. Now I am waiting to hear back from Ear Yoshino about my Ear 516.
You might want to try custom-made discrete opamps. I have experienced worthwhile improvements with those. Got them from a friend, and I don't know where he got them from. I might be able to find out.
Thanks Mark. Since there was already one Burson opamp in one slot, I read up on what they say on their website. However, I am not sure whether I need singe or dual opamps if I want to try some in all the slots. Just checked their website. They have D-class opamps. Are all opamps - including the Burson opamps - class D?
I need 3 x dual Burson opamps, for instanceBurson V5-D. Well, make that two since I already have one in place. I sure would like to know what difference switching opamps has made for people.
As an update I spoke to the seller of my 518 and they said the pasvane 274b t/2 is fine to use as 0.1 amp difference. Reading here there is another person the other psvane we274b though this draws 2.5amps. The usage is not per spec so do at your own risk; some feedback online that the 518 has a max 2.5 in this position but nothing official from what I have read. With the pasvane 274b me I saw an noticeable improvement to sound over stock rectifier and new production 5ar4 mullard's (step down from base imo) and Gold Lion (better than stock). For power stage I have tried the Shuguang we845's, but have had three sets fail or be damaged in shipping, so now going to try the psvane t2smkii's. For impulse stage I have tried lots of tubes, Shuguang kt88 black treasure (nice but too bassey for My setup), psvane 6ca7 T2's (still in burn in and dull/ all over atm- will update), tad 6L6GC-STR RCA black plate (nice so far but need to try more I think to get better impression - will update), Svetlana winged c EL34's (very nice and were favourites until I tried next tubes), new prod Gold Lion KT77's (wonderful, number 2 favourites so far) and finally new prod Tung Sol 7581A's (favorite, seem great across the board and surprisingly the cheapest). For pre-amp stage I tried new prod mullard 12ax7's (didn't like but was an eBay buy along with the recifier and not 100% sure legit or perhaps needed more burn in), new prod Gold Lion gold pin 12ax7's (were favourites and go to for this position for 12ax7's ATM) and finally psvane 12ax7 T2's (still burning in so not ready to rate yet). My current favourite though are standard new prod Tung Sol 5751's (I find clearer and more open and fast with my speakers/ setup/ room; they tightened the bass and and reduced the boom I got with other tubes). As loving the 5751's in my setup, I have NOS Sylvania black plate triple mica on the wish list but pricey. Any thoughts on other NOS? Also want to try SED winged c 6L6gc's, but ATM not sure I can justify with so many similar tubes, but sure to get in the future.
Good stuff on the Shuguang WE845's - thanks. FYI I ordered a pair of PSvane 845-TII and one tube was good. The 2nd and 3rd tube have all been bad - one flamed out in glory at start, the other would not hold bias. 4th tube on the way and I have my fingers crossed this one is good. Now how long they last is another story. Too bad when they were running they sounded as if they had potential, but I did not have enough hours on them to really know how good they might be. Might just have to settle for the Shuguang 845B that is sold in the states.
Ok good to know re the t2's. Were they the mkii's with the orange base? The shuguang we845's sounded lovely but are fragile. Had different issues each time (crack on one in top after about 5 hours, the second time a rattle and third couldn't get bias to hold (the box they came in had two big impact marks - thanks UPS)). Don't see the shaguang 845b's here in Europe from the trusted sellers I have used before but the pasvane 845b's are available so could look at those. BTW the Gold Lion KT77's and psvane 12ax7 t2's sounding lovely together.
One of my WE 845's bit the dust. I got a couple years out of them, but I'm not going to splurge for them again. Not worth it IMO. Anybody know my options if I want to avoid Grant Fidelity (like the plague)? Anybody here in the States selling any of the Psvane models?
From an Amazon seller? https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...keywords=psvane+we845&rh=i:aps,k:psvane+we845 None of them have a great reputation but you'd be protected to a degree via Amazon. Just an idea.
Another idea is to order via Chinese sellers on eBay with a good reputation. You have up to 3 months through PayPal in case there's a problem.
Lastly, I'm wondering if perhaps a tube with some type of warranty program might be a better option so as to cover yourself should you run into similar issues in the future. I know EML does that (5-year program) but they don't seem to have 845 tubes, unless their "45" tubes are the same thing? Food for thought. 45 Data sheet. Emission Labs.
I have had good experience with the tubestore but they tend to stock a better selection of the small tubes - still - they have some www.thetubestore.com - 845 Tube Types
I believe he's looking for something in a much higher performing category or specifically the Psvane 845s.
That would be ideal, however, since I put my stock tubes back in (until I figure out what to get) I am reminded of how beautifully saturated the tonal colors are in these tubes. The WE845's definitely do NOT have this beautiful color, and I miss it.
