My new Rega RP6 - Pros & Cons

But this post doesn´t have much to do with mine, I think.

What I said was if you should compair different TTs up front, the least we must do is to have everything the same, but the TTs. What would be the meaning in not having it, especially if you are going to buy one? You are buying the TT but basing the decision on the cartridge or the phonoamp?

 

I've heard the RP6 and RP8 both with the Exact in the same system. About the same difference between the RP6 and the RP3 if not a touch less. Actually believe the VPI Classic and Michell Gyrodec both better the RP8, though not by much. Once you hit RP6 level or better tables the most noticeable changes in sound quality will come from cartridge upgrades. Obviously a 3 grand table with a 1500 dollar cartridge will will top a 1500 dollar table and a 500 dollar cartridge.

 

I think the best thing is to have some kind of plan.

If your end goal is upgrading to better gear, then you're not ultimately going to be listening to the cartridge and phonoamp you
have in your system today, so i don't agree that "comparing 1 thing" in the chain is the only way to demo.

My own strategy was to listen to several whole systems that are at the level I aspire to. I'm likely to get there one or two pieces
at a time, but just micromanaging the process by listening to the same cartridge on 5 different brands of TT gives you data
about what those combinations sound like, but it gives you very little idea what pairing that TT and cartridges
with other systems will sounds like. Putting the same cartridge on a rp3, 6, and 8 misses the
entire point of upgrading to a better table. An rp8 can get way more from a better cartridge
than putting a expensive cartridge on a rp3.

 

But it was You that stated that the RP8 sounded much than the RP6. 'They were not even close'. But with totally different components used.

 

The suspended piece of cardboard holds the platter in the bottom of the box. Then the table itself with a square piece of Styrofoam covering the subplatter. The dustcover fits over the table and protected subplatter and they sit in the upper slots on each side as one unit. The power supply and wall wart are in the Rega box along the back of the main packing box.
Does that help?

 

Thank you for that!
I assume they still ship with the arm already on the plinth?
I think a lot of REGA's problems (complaints) can be ultimately tracked back to their shipping methods...............as I posted elsewhere, more than a few finger lifts snapped off back during the '90s (my first "25" came that way)...........was very very common according to Steve Laurman and my "dealer"
That styrofoam a really heavy gauge or is it still just the sort of "middle of the road" density?
I think REGA would be wise to consider shipping their decks with the arm in a separate
Although most od the issues today seem to be platter related box, like the wall wart/power supply is treated

 

The Styrofoam is rigid and smooth, and as far as density, very light and strong. The armtube was secured to the arm rest with a small tie wrap if I remember correctly.
Always happy to oblige with a picture or some type of info when I can...... ( although I did have to climb into a hot Florida attic to retrieve the box )

 

All you do is put the counterweight on and get it set to 1.75 gms. It takes about 5 minutes before you'll be playing records.

 

Takes/took me more than 5 minutes to dial in any deck, even a REGA; even longer with the one with the broken arm from shipping damage (not a mark on the outside of the box)
Maybe 5 minutes with a REGA cartridge (I don't own or use them)
REGA's packaging/packing is garbage
I was hoping they had improved upon it by now

Thanks for the reply

 

The packing of my RP6 9 months ago was fine and my local dealer set up at my house. For me that's why I buy local.

 

The problem is that the contents can shift to much if poorly handled
Especially during the "Planar" days: those sharp corners just sliced through that foam when handled roughly (bounced)
Don't take it personally; I picked my first "25" up at my local dealer, got it home and the arm was broken
Laurman sent me one from Tennessee and it made it unscathed ( a truly "cross country" trip); luck of the draw
I finally got all of mine squared away; but every issue I had with the 2 out of 3 decks could have been prevented if Roy would spend an additional $1.50 on packing

Making a trip across England is one thing, maybe even to Continental Europe
But by the time they get to Kalifornia............

 

And that's another reason why I bought local. My dealer opened inspected and setup my table. If there were packing or shipping problems then that table would not be in my house.

 

I won't buy/accept anything new that's not still factory sealed
Easy for me (except for the return, small waste of time) as I also don't want anyone else screwing with anything I buy new
I'm just that way
With electronics I only trust myself (long story)

 

I get it but when I bought my RP 6 my dealer showed me the sealed brand new box. Then they opened and showed me how to set up. Then they tweaked it at my house.

Ever see new cars being delivered to a dealer ? My Audi and all the others are partially wrapped on the delivery truck. The dealer then essentially sets up the new vehicle.

They detail it, gas it up, electronically set and inspect it. Same thing but more elaborate. I trust my dealers and return to them.

r

 

That attitude shows how much the world of selling hi-fi has changed.
Linn used to put a seal on their boxes that said "do NOT accept UNLESS seal is broken",
which meant that under no circumstances was the customer to receive a product without the
authorized dealer doing the inspection and set up. It's a brave new world out there,
you have a lot more confidence in the factory than I do. All the seal means these days
is the stuff someone tossed in the box at the warehouse is still in it. Likely means nothing
about the state of the condition of the item inside.

 

I worked for dealers; it's called "pre-delivery"
You're missing the point, I give up
Glad you are all set and have a good dealer

 

Exactly this !!!!! Buy from a dealer you trust and you will be taken care of.

 

Sorry you give up. I understand pre delivery and prefer to make all my purchases in this way.

But I do remember records with the sticker: Factory Sealed for your protection

 

Not necessarily what that meant, but regardless, as I have written, I worked in the automotive trade for 40 years + give or take...................that is one of many reasons I do all things mechanical myself, for myself
NO ONE will pay as much attention to detail, and perfection, to my things, as I will

Every dealer I have ever had was a hack and managed to leave at least one new scratch on everything I have ever been forced to take in

Albeit tiny, but a flaw that I didn't have before

I will NEVER let anyone else other than myself EVER install a cartridge for me again as long as I am able............they will scratch the arm's mounting slots (that, or gouge with screw heads), or the body or the head shell...........something

I am just too fastidious that way (perfectionist)

Use to have faith; been burned too many times

Only guy I trust to do mechanical work for me is my surgeon; guy is an Artist

 

Many of us don't have your vast experience and are at the mercy of the retailer of our choice. Maybe it's time to stop buying altogether since everything comes slightly damaged.

 

RP6 with a Michael Lim RP8 dual pulley and white belts gets real close to an RP8 for bass weight. Arm is another story.

 

To cover up the price tags of returns!

 

Just curious if you also tried Michael's silicone belts? I just ordered his dual pulley and a pair of his silicone belts. My current white belt has less than 100 hours on it so I ordered another one of those so I can try to compare. But just wondered if maybe you (or someone else) already did compare them?

 

Once, I had the rare occasion of luck to compare a Linn TT with the same vintage of turntable, tonearm, and cartridge, set-up on the same day by the same tech, to my Sondek Lp12. The single difference was a platter bearing (Cirkus) that a client had the dealer install in his TT. When A/B-ing the two TTs, it was clear and understandable what the updated/upgraded bearing brought to the table. Greater micro-dynamic punch, greater low-level detail, and near complete record surface noise elimination (possibly bearing rubble too). Do you have any idea how rare those circumstances where??? And yes, I ordered the bearing! Though I seriously doubt anyone could have talked a dealer into doing this just to sell a bearing, or hell, even a Linn turntable!

So although A/B-ing a TT with all else the same, may be technically and fundamentally most accurate, practically and logistically it is most likely to be rendered useless. AND I think one has to also consider the synergistic aspects of a TT, as a system as well. In my experience we have to view a TT (cartridge, tonearm, chassis, speed control, set-up) as a complete musical instrument that creates a unique sonic signature as an assembly. Some parts work together well, others, not so much, and this adds another complexity in trying to simply A/B.

I don't know how to eliminate subjectivity in this equation, as I agree, our sonic senses is purely subjective. But subjectivity is not some kind of trickster or gremlin that we need to avoid trusting. So Van Gogh painted exactly what he emotionally experienced on a starry night (not what a photograph would have captured) and that is what resonates with us emotionally today and makes his expression have value, perhaps not accurate, just perfect IMHO. So in that way, much of what we choose in musical reproduction is merely, yet essentially what moves us. There is no wrong choice, if it moves you. If you are so fortunate as to be able to A/B something, great! Chances are, you will not be that fortunate. Don't get hung up on that point and miss out on hitting the bigger target. Find something that works well, something you like, and enjoy listening!

 

If I interpret You correctly You are saying; don´t try to compare TTs, and in principle I believe that is my take to, in principle. I have written many times that if we can´t compare TTs like apple to apples, don´t bother in doing it. If not even the basics are there, don´t do it, you will be making the decision based on some other component, not the TT.
When I do compare TTs I make recordings that I listen to, that is the best way I know of.