no idea as its not my table. I googled and found it http://www.amazon.com/Record-Clamp-Audio-Stabilizer-Turntable/dp/B00SCXUXCW
According to Michell when I spoke to them, the only armboards available for the Tecnodec is the Michell/Rega one and an SME one. It's the Gyrodec that has all the different types of swappable armboards. edit: Yep - I just rang them up and they confirmed that again.
Ah, now I see. Crazy! It might physically fit and electrically work, but I'm sure the VTA and rake angle are completely wrong. Hopefully it didn't chew up any records!
Actually when I tried it with mine it surprised me that the angles actually seem to be exactly the same. I'd read this around the net but thought it was exaggeration. However, it almost looks like Ortofon simply took the OM cartridges tweaked the electrical "innards" a bit then added the canopy-like shape around the stylus/cantilever. The one difference I did notice was the weight. My stylus 20 was much lighter than my 2M Black stylus.
Excellent condition grey Technics 1200 bought new in 2010 for $600 or a brand new black Pioneer PLX-1000.... What do you guys think? I do like that the PLX allows for external RCAs so I can use higher quality interconnects than the stock Technics RCAs.
Some. He said that "Purchased new in 2010. Original owner. Never traveled. Equipment has been stored indoors, inside of covered coffin, unused since 2013"
It´s not the use that is the problem with used 1200s per se, it´s the carrying of the TT in these cases that smashes the pivot bearings, sometimes also the platter. So if a case has been involved always expect it will need a new arm, if you can´t do any real inspection pre buying.
If I was 100% certain the Technics had no issues and was well taken care of, I'd have gotten it. But till that magical day, it's the Pioneer for me, brand spanking new. Both tables are excellent, btw.
I can likely go look at it and see how it runs, since the seller lives near me. However, since I'm such a beginner, I won't exactly know what to look for outside of some of the obvious things. Thanks for replying.
I ask this to all of you, WHY exactly are people saying the Technics is probably better? Who here has actually compared them head-to-head? I know the Technics has a very high reputation and is built like a tank to last. Why isn't the Pioneer similarly as reliable and as good performance-wise? We clearly don't know how it will hold up long term, but should that be the reason why the Technics should be considered better? What gives the Technics the nudge in most of you guys' picks? And as far as price goes, the price of my Audio Technica AT LP 120 has only increased since I bought it for $205 a couple years ago, which was the standard price then. Now, it's $275-300.
The Technics is a known quantity. Internal board layout is better. Arm bearings are probably better. Service/parts (for the most part) are readily available. I didn't want used so I went with the Pioneer. That said, if I could have bought a NOS Technics for $800 or so, I would be spinning that instead. Do I feel like I'm missing out on anything? Nope. Will the Pioneer be as bulletproof as the Technics has proved to be? I don't know. Time will tell. And the table you are looking at has seen DJ use, precisely what I didn't want. I'd pass on it and get the Pioneer if you are ready to pull the trigger.
You just answered your question, the Technics has a proven track record, the Pioneer is too young to tell if it matches the 1200 in durability.
Thanks. He says he has only practiced on it in his home and has no actually taken it anywhere to REALLY DJ. Still, you're probably right. Yes, it is built like a tank and is known to last. In terms of sound quality though, everything else being equal, is there any consensus on which one out-performs the other? Is the only reason why people are leaning towards Technics still is because of that table's durability? One video:
For me I have measured a lot on the Technics, like rumble/noise, W&F. I know it´s top class. I have not measured anything on the Pioneer, so I really know nothing about it. Sound quality is mostly subjective, objective performance is another thing. Sound quality I adjust so I like it, it´s more difficult if I don´t like the measurements. If I happen to measure too high important figures on a TT then it is out if it´s not a reasonable easy fix.
Sound wise- the Pioneer owes no apologies- it performs far above its price range. Durability is the only place where the Technics rules, and that is because the Pioneer has no track record.
Sound quality is a subjective thing, almost only so. What I mean is I have never bought anything that is good enough, but good enough as a base in performance, and a base that can be adjusted for a personal liking. Everything is a compromise in audio.
That's what I figured. I just wanted to hear people's opinions. Unless I can somehow snag a mint or new Technics, I will likely go with the Pioneer as my next table. Some day, I'd like to end up with a VPI Classic (I'm a professional student who is in a lot of debt right now). From what many of you have told me, it will be tough to find anything that truly trumps the PLX-1000 until I'm in the price range of a Classic.
Here's a fairly decent list of things to check for when looking at a used SL1200 from: http://www.turntabletech.com/used.htm Grasp the Record Spindle and make sure there is no side to side movement Rotate the platter and note that it spins in both directions without dragging Power the unit, Press START , see that the Platter engages quickly and freely Switch between 33 Rpm and 45 Rpm platter speeds several times Leave the unit running for 15min or so..there should be no hot, or burning smell! Press the STOP button and the platter should come to a rest fairly quickly Press START again..Pitch control should be at ZERO, and the second row of Pitch Dots near the On/Off knob which are illuminated Red, should be still....completely motionless...if they are moving slightly clockwise, or counterclockwise and the green LED is on at the Pitch Control, then the Quartz Lock is broken...if the Pitch Control is at Zero and the green LED is NOT on, then you either have a 1200M3D Model, an MK2 with the Quartz Lock Removed / Disabled, or an MK2 with a burned out Pitch LED. Now move the Pitch Control slider slightly toward negative 2 (-2), just enough so that the green LED is no longer illuminated, and you can definitely tell that it is NO longer at zero.....look again at the Pitch Dots near the black On/Off knob....these should begin to move Counterclockwise in direction..if they begin moving Clockwise then it is an issue with the "Zero Point" being out of calibration...not a big deal, but this situation will have to be fixed, and can be used to reduce asking price. Next, Move the Pitch silghtly toward positive 2 (+2), pitch dots should begin rotating clockwise..If they begin rotating Counterclockwise, once again, this may be simply an issue of the "Zero Point" being incorrectly calibrated, but you might want a ask for a rebate of about $20 off the asking price Now, move the Pitch Control slider up to about positive 3.3 (+3.3)...you will have to eyeball it...look over at the third row of Pitch Dots and they should be still....they probably won't be..and this isn't a deal breaker, but indicates that the Turntable has fallen out of calibration Now, move the Pitch control slider up to positive 6 (+6)....look over at the fourth, or bottom row of Pitch Dots...these should be still and unwavering...once again they probably won't be...once again this indicates that the turntable is in need of Pitch Recalibration and may help you reduce the price ($20 less) as this may mean that you have a limited ( <8%) control of Platter Pitch. Next examine the RCA & Ground wires. Look for breaks in the insulation and exposed wires. Does the ground wire have a spade terminal, or is it frayed and bare oxidized wire? You will want to check for feedback, hum, and ground loops. You will need to actually plug the turntable into an amplifier with a "Phono" input, or a mixer and use headphones to listen for buzzing, or humming. Now, hopefully you brought a cartridge to actually mount to the tonearm to check for proper channel output. First check the contacts on the inside of the Tonearm itself. These are spring loaded and prone to corrosion and becoming stuck. Take a sharp pencil and use it to physically push each of the four (4) terminals a bit to see if it still has spring recoil. Now mount the cartridge to the tonearm and secure the locking ring. Hope you brought a test record to check playback....but if you read this, then you did.
