If you apply the 54mm setting, and have the cantilever parallel to the sides of the headshell (always align to the cantilever not the cartridge body) then you will have the classic Technics/Stevenson alignment (yes I know they're technically two slightly different alignments, but the specs differences are smaller than the margin of error for the average naked eye ). Be (careful not to call it "overhang" as that term refers to how far the stylus arc falls beyond the spindle. In the case of the Pioneer, setting the stylus tip 54mm from the back of the washer on the headshell, your overhang will be 15mm. I've checked this 54mm alignment with an arc protractor and it's accurate.
According to their website, the price is adjusted during the checkout process. I know in the case of Thakker.eu a German site where I've bought styli, once I log into my account, the site adjusts the prices to remove the VAT since I'm registered as living outside of the EU.
Thank you for the clarification. I've purchased from Thakker myself without issue. I don't remember how it worked, but they did indeed remove the VAT.
Right, thanks. What would the correct term be then, if not "overhang" ? Also, I wonder why more manufacturers don't use this alignment method since it seems a lot more simple than using a protractor ?
The terminology is correct in that you are adjusting the overhang, it's just that the value for the measurement you are making is not the actual overhang value, it is just a reference dimension. Many manufacturers do supply a cartridge jig which serves that same purpose, or a line on the plinth, or an alignment jig setup for the correct overhang. Many people wouldn't have the ability to accurately make a stylus tip measurement, and the highest accuracy would be with the tracking force applied, so in those cases a jig or simple alignment gauge is probably better, and it would allow you to setup your cartridge for different types of alignments, possibly more optimized to your needs. The offset angle would also need to be adjusted for different alignments (and may not even be correct for your chosen offset) so I think it is always good to be acquainted with some type of alignment tool (if only for peace of mind). They are fairly simple to use once the concept is understood. But it sounds like @Stefan already confirmed it is a sufficient alignment method for the PLX-1000.
Very useful info thank you. A quick follow up question; When you measure the 54mm, is it best to do it with the arm down on the record, which i guess results in a lightly longer distance due to the cantilever angle changing with the weight applied?
Actually I never measure it with the headshell mounted on the tonearm. I have a digital caliper and jeweler's magnifying glass so I asit it on a desk and measure carefully from the back of the washer on the headshell to the tip of the stylus making sure the cantilever is parallel to the side of the headshell.
Ah right that sounds like a better method. I have a similar magnifying glass and an old draughtsman compass set somewhere. That plus a steel rule will give me a similar though obviously not quite as accurate- will give it a try thanks.
Yes that should work fine. the magnifying glass is important because it`s really quite amazing how far off the naked eye can be on these things (my 56 yr-old eyes anyway! . You think the stylus tip is right where you want it to be but when you check with the magnifier, it's off. Some folks feel close is good enough for these things, but if you play around with alignment calculators like the one at vinylengine, it becomes clear that even a slight deviation makes a big difference is not only the distortion levels but where the distortion occurs on the typical record side.
Has anybody here experimented with swapping the feet on their PLX-1000 yet? I did notice that someone here (apologies for forgetting) had replaced the original feet with Isonoe's Audio Isolation System | Isonoe , I'm also interested in Origin Live pointy feet (well regarded by some Technics 1200 owners I gather) Origin Live Replacement Damping Feet & Pads . Any thoughts??
My opinion is that the Isonoe´s feet are a sound design, in principle the same as a suspended design. The TT will be rather effectively isolated; as only very low freq will slip through. There are other feet on the market with a similar design; like Solid Tech, they are very well regarded.
Can anybody give an example of the proven disadvantages of the original plx 1000 feet? Lower the tonearm without the motor spinning, put yout headphones over and knock or pick or scratch the base. Why should anybody change the feet.
Been following this thread because I'm looking for a second table. I have a Dual 1219 that I do most of my listening on (mainly '50's-'70's stuff), but would like to have a table with a fine line type cart for new records at around this price point. I have a Technics SL-1500 MK2 rewired to be able to accept custom RCA's that is pretty much mint - am I gaining anything with a table like the PLX-1000, or am I just as well off putting a Ortofon Blue or 440 mlb on the Technics and calling it a day? I would greatly appreciate any feedback!
I have a Michell Gyro SE and a PLX-1000. I really, really, like my PLX-1000 a lot. However, if I had a Technics SL-1500 MK2 already, I'd be tempted to keep it and put a Jelco 750 on it.
My understanding is that changing the arm on the 1500 isn't an easy matter like on the 1200. I don't think I'm going there, I'm just wondering if I am gaining anything with the same cart on the Pioneer over the Technics.
I just bought the PLX-1000 turntables after owning 1210 MK 2s for years, which needed some serious repairs, I thought I'd go for a new set of decks. I've been DJing on them now for over a month and am really impressed with them, but noticed one arm gimbal is ever so slightly loose and rattles, the other is fine. The issue is, do I just leave it or return it for a service to Pioneer, as not wanting it getting damaged on delivery as they work fine. Just not sure if leaving it will cause any issues down the line and I have never tightened the screw and lockring before, so don't want to interfere incase I over tighten it and ruin the bearings...thoughts, as I say the sound is excellent, the pitches are very acurate for doing long mixes and riding the control and I'm really impressed?
That's what i thought, I will just leave as is, as the tracking with my s120 cartridge is excellent, once the anti-skate is set properly, it can literally stop dead on at any point of a record without any movment and my recordings all sound excellent, and also through my focal monitors they sound better i think than most turntables, The movement is very, very slight, so I am just a bit over the top with everything being perfect, even though they have been a dream to mix on since getting them. I am always concerned sending equipment back for minor, minor stuff like this. I also don't feel the similarity with other super OEM turntables from Hanpin, basically because of the tonarm action, the torque, the platter and the pitch control feels a lot better than any of those turntables, I also think it feels a wee bit better than 0.01 wow and flutter, so from me a huge thumbs up and I would say that this reminds me more of a brand new MK5 technics, mixed with the 1200 and that is from years of djing on these turntables, every stanton, audio technica and the rest have been ok, but not anything like Technics to mix on due to the pitch acuracy and also the platter torque.
I'd be keen to know what to listen for, if you could describe the effects of loose bearings on a TT's sound.
That's something he would need to compare between his two tables. If the one with bearing play sounded perceptibly inferior, then the bearings could be the cause. I would assume that a little bearing play would not have any perceptible effects during most playback conditions. There are constant forces on the bearings, one is gravity on the tonearm, one is the friction force between the bearing races, one is the torque of the lateral arm movenent, and one is the pulling force caused by the stylus being dragged by the LP. In most cases, the bearings will not chatter with these forces in play. I could imagine that a severely warped LP with an off-center hole might cause a problem.
I've listened to various vinyl on both decks, and there is nothing I can pick up through the speakers.
A very slight turn of the top screw in the gimbal will tighten up the bearing and take out any loose arm play. Its really an easy fix, just make sure you only tighten it ever so slightly as you don't want to over tighten. You can always reverse this as well if you do over tighten. Grab a good flat head and go for it!
