Does anyone know if the stock arm can be swapped out for another? I saw an SME on a 1200 so just wondering.... I have a nice Clearaudio Satisfy that needs a good home
It can be swapped, but you'd need an armboard to match the plx & your arm. The technics one doesn't fit sadly
I wonder if someone here could answer me a question regarding my PLX-1000 :- I've noticed a little seeping of liquid every so often coming from just below the arm height ring (below the pivot, at the base of the arm assembly where the arm meets the top plate of the deck). It seems to be of a greasy consistency (oil lubricant of some kind), it also gathers around the arm lock lever switch and can be seen at the base of the cueing lever when it is raised (in the little gap at the lever's base). It clears up quite easily with a cotton bud and I can honestly say the performance of both arm and turntable in general doesn't appear to be affected....Any ideas of what this could be and if I've any reason to be concerned? Cheers Darren
If I was to guess, i'd say likely to be cue platform damping fluid - can't think what else it could be. Maybe overfilled from new and is leaking as you use it. Maybe a failing seal. If you could track down a service manual / exploded diagram maybe you could zero in on the problem. Having said all of that - if its in warranty you could consider a return for repair.
The turntable is a couple of years old so its out of warranty unfortunately. The fluid from memory I've only had to clear up twice since purchase (it doesn't appear to leak all the time). Anybody else here had this problem?
An update regarding the leaking fluid from Barry Ross (Pioneer DJ - Support);- 'I have heard of this before, all the motors and moving parts are lubricated, it maybe there was slight more on your model, but i a have never seen this causing failure to the product, just keep and eye on it and if you start experiencing issues please let us know.' So if anyone else is experiencing this, it doesn't look like it should cause problems (fingers crossed)!
Almost three years with the PLX-1000 and still running like a champ. I eventually got an AT440mlb and recently a Schiit Mani preamp. That trio just takes my records to a new level of sonic bliss. I've refrained from buying an elite $$$$ setup like most of you have here on SHF partly because most of my records are inherited and used, some not in the best condition. That said, my combo has been very forgiving on my worst vinyl offenders, even 50 cent clearance stuff.
If you ever win the lottery and decide to get an elite $$$$ system, be sure to keep your forgiving one so you can enjoy all your records.
What makes you think a high dollar deck will make noisy records sound worse? I can tell you that there is less intrusive surface noise using my Orbe/SME combo than with the PLX1000 in the same system. Using a second deck/ arm with a less expensive and forgiving cartridge for worn vinyl may be a good move.
I just got a new TT without any grounding wire is there any specific wire that i should buy. and should i connect to my receiver and then by another wire to connect my receiver to my speakers
The connection between your speakers and receiver is of no consequence to the turntable. If using a phono preamp built-in to the receiver, you simply need a small gauge wire to connect from the ground lug on the turntable to the ground lug on the receiver. If using a stand-alone phono preamp, connect the wire from the turntable to the ground lug on the preamp. In the latter case, if you still have audible hum at normal listening volume, try connecting another wire from the phono preamp to a bare metal portion of the receiver chassis. A bottom plate screw typically works for that purpose. There's no specific wire you should buy, something like basic 22 gauge stranded copper works just fine. Keep it fairly short and crimp a couple spade terminals to each end.
That was gonna be my first choice of audiophile cart or the Bronze. Eventually I got the AT440mlb, which is the best of both of those. I may purchase a Blue in the near future.
It is 100% worth the price difference, especially if you have a phono stage you can fine tune for it. I had the 2M Blue for about a year, and decided to jump to the MP-150 instead of just getting a new stylus. The MP is supposed to take about 30 hours to break in, and I'm not quite there yet but I'm already very happy with the change. First off, nothing is majorly wrong with the Blue. My only real gripe with it was it was a little bright at times, but my speakers can also be a little bright, so that's more of a slight mis-match than a fault of either. Before really fine tuning my pre-amp I noticed two things. The highs are a little smoother, and big moments in songs (like big orchestral moments mostly) sounded BIG, noticeably bigger. Not really wider, but I guess that might be coming from a greater sense of depth? All I know that was the first thing I really noticed as a stand out. That's what originally jumped out, and I would have been happy still if that was the only changes that happened. I think if I spent more time running it directly into the built in phono section on my receiver, I might have noticed a little clean up in bass as well but the Blue doesn't really slouch on bass anyway. Now for the changes that came with fine tuning the phono stage - this is where much bigger differences happened. I'm currently running an iPhono2. I started with the same settings as the 2Blue, and first experimented with a little more gain. I liked that improvement. It didn't change the sound, but it allowed by amp to run at a little lower power, with no loss of sound. With the Blue I had experimented with the pF loads for the MM settings, and I couldn't hear any difference on anything. I honestly really didn't understand why they were even there. But with the MP, I started to notice a difference when I made bigger jumps (moving from 100 pF to 300pF). I could really hear it getting brighter and darker, and not by a small amount. I would guess an untrained ear would notice with the right recording. The biggest difference came while I was listening to the Vinyl Me Please version of Demon Days. I picked this album because it's probably the hardest album I have tracking-wise. The Blue tracked it fine, and so did the MP. However, I always felt the mastering on this version did a really sloppy job with the bass. I thought it was overloaded throughout. But this is when the MP really got to shine. Once I dialed in the pF, it tightened up the bass to be just right. Now all the sudden the bass was not only tighter and faster, but it opened up a whole midrange section I had no idea was on the track. Like actual instrumentation I had never noticed. Albums with great recordings still sound great, but this cart when fine tuned helped me get more out of this album, and I'm thinking I might have more of that moving forward with it, which has me really excited. The dialed in settings are also adding a lot more depth. I could hear more refined reverb with on Brothers in Arms as well. Not as "wow" as Demon Days, but a nice addition.
So does anyone know how much wow and flutter this thing actually has? Some retailers list a pretty realistic 0.1% while others, including Pioneer's own site quote a 0.01% value. Anyone tried it with Turntabulator?
Turntabulator? No I have´t, but I have tested one TT with a normal 3150Hz tone. The W&F was very low, nothing to worry about.
Have you tested it on other pitch values except zero locked and if so, was it equally stable? I wonder if the quartz lock is active through the entire pitch range or is only engaged at zero (reset button). Reloop 7000, which is supposedly the same turntable, has the reset button named "quartz", which I understand as there's quartz lock only when that button is engaged, not through the entire pitch range.