Technics SL-1200MK2 Upgrades (Pictoral)

To each his own. Enjoy. But if I were to spend all the money you spend on modding a 1200, I'd rather put together an SP-10, with a good arm and a custom plinth - no 1200 can compete with that, however modded.

 

Yep - agree to disagree - the SP 10 is rare expensive antique (placed on a pedestal) and nothing more. A 1200 can't compete with that aspect of it but it can certainly match it sound and performance wise.

 

Michael Fremer recently did a test; his megabuck Continuum Caliburn against the Technics SL-1200G. Then some guy came along and did and analysis of the two files he provided links to (not the videos). Turns out the 1200G (which is a 4K table) ran spot on speed and the Caliburn was either slightly slow or slightly fast. This is my major problem with spending 5-6K on a "better" deck... ...and still not having the speed be dead on. This is probably not an issue for many folks; however, as a near life long musician, it's incredibly important for me. In other words, if the musicians were playing A440... ...that's what I want coming out of my speakers.

I can't underscore enough how disappointed I am in the closing of Phoenix Engineering. They seemed to be the only company offering a solution (Eagle PSU, RoadRunner Tach) for the speed issue that plagues many low, mid, high to exceedingly high priced (and otherwise, well built decks). With the available upgrades most of the less liked sonic attributes of the 1200 can be improved or eliminated whilst being assured of a speed accurate deck. For me, that's as worth the 5-6K I'll have put into the 1200 when it's all said and done as it would be to put 3-4K into my Thorens TD-150 MKII if the Phoenix Eng. controls were still available along with a custom mass-loaded plinth, new heavy duty springs, new platter mat, new tonearm, etc.

 

If you said SP-10MK3, I'd agree with you. The SP-10MK2... ...not so much.

 

What's funny is that, before this "vinyl revival" hit full stride, I bought my now modded SL-1200MK2 used for............ 1-3-5 bucks. The table was always worth more than that; but, it's a timing and perception thing. I've got 5 1200's; never paid more than $250 for any of them. Familiarity and ease of acquisition bread contempt. I've picked up a lot of gear over the years that people did not realize would one day regain and/or exceed it's original value. I got two Revox PR99 reel to reel decks that way, as well.

 

Some folks on this forum say for speed stability the idler drives are great. Garrard, Thorens, and Lenco. Phoenix gear can still be had from HiFi Heaven in Wisconsin. They bought up all the remaining stock when Phoenix closed down, and jacked up the prices. But still available for purchase.

 

I know, I'm looking to buy a Mk2 to have it modded by KAB, I can't believe the prices being asked for decks beat-up by DJ-ing and in sorrowful shapes. That's why I figured I'm better off waiting for the new GR to come out for $1,699. Modding will just have to wait a while, until the new mods come out. Someone is bound to come up with 'em.

Still looking, though, if I can find one in good shape for a reasonable price - I will grab one.

 

According to their specs, even MkII is above the 1200 in tolerances. I'm not saying there's a universe between them, but still. And the MSRP of SP-10 new was triple that of the 1200, if my memory serves me right, and that's for just the table, no arm, plinth, or the rest.

EDIT: double for SP-10 Mk2, more than triple for SP-10 Mk3

Vintage Technics Turntables

 

That same manufacturer (as you are bring up MSRP) found that the SL1200 was sufficient enough to replace the SP10 and hence stopped producing them.

 

SP-10 wasn't an antique when it came out. And even then it was at least double the price of the 1200, for chassis alone, and for good measure. It was mainly used by radio-stations, due to its unmatched speed accuracy. It is over-hyped today, I agree, but back then it was all substance.

Vintage Technics Turntables

 

Ah, "sufficient". Now we are getting into the "good enough" territory, having taken a step back from all the superlatives. I agree, the 1200 is certainly sufficient, for me as well. But I'm not contradicting myself. I was saying from the beginning - I want good performance at reasonable cost. When costs go out of whack - I start to question whether the expense is commensurate with the level of the gear.

 

That same manufacturer later killed the 1200, too. Now they're bringing it back. A newer SP-10 might follow, given today's trends, costing $10K or more - and it will find its buyers, I assure you.

Hell, VPI charges $30K for Classic Direct, and they have not discontinued it - someone must be buying them.

 

Some folks say ancient aliens visited. What about when the rubber idler wheel wears (let alone turns into goo)? You've got a rubber roller that is compressed against the capstan-like drive, and when the rubber wheel changes in radius or consistency even with temperature, or the spring presses harder or softer, you are going to get a different result in speed even if the motor were quartz lock accurate. Technics direct drive insists the platter rotate at the frequency-locked speed (even if not quartz-generated).

For a home brew messy mod, one can melt and fill the underside of the platter with asphalt, the same stuff as Dynamat (although heat-gunning cut and weighed-out dampening material pieces is easier to maintain platter balance). Adding mass stabilizes the speed further besides its audio contributions.

 

If they came out with a new SP-10 or an otherwise similar armless/plinthless table with their new motor… Oh boy. That's it for me. Endgame achieved. Better start saving my pennies in the hopes this is the route they're going down.

 

Ralph Karsten of Atma-Sphere posted this cool SL-1200G conversion with 12-inch Tri-Planar arm they did for a customer awhile back over at vinyl asylum ... his words below ...

But the stock arm has three problem areas: the bearings are in the plane of the arm tube rather than the LP surface, the arm tube is not damped and the bearings are not hard enough. These issues are all addressed by the Triplanar. Additionally, the 12" arm simply has lower skating forces and less tracking error.

 

I've had my Sl1210Mk2 for about 12 years now. I bought it back when they were available for $425 new. I've done some upgrades to it over the years that have proven to be very effective. It just so happens that these upgrades are very reasonable in cost: IanMac bearing, heat shrink on the tonearm, and the Vibrostop platter mat. I was really surprised by the major improvement in sound by the heat shrink and IanMac bearing. I wasn't expecting the improvements to be so clear. Now, I do all of my listening on this analog rig through a very high quality heaphone system. So the differences in sound are easy to hear. The Sl1210 Mk2 has also scaled very well with upgrades to the rest of system. Showing clear differences between tube amps, types of tubes, phono amps, and cartridges.

My point is that if you get a stock SL, you can do some very cost effective upgrades to it for not a lot of money. And you end up with a fantastic turntable!

 

That looks amazing. I'm really excited for all the mods and upgrades that people will be doing to these new 1200s. Enough to still consider them as a serious contender for my next (and perhaps last) turntable upgrade

 

Never thought about heat shrink on the tonearm. I tried something similar by wrapping my tonearm but it didn't work out as well as I was expecting, abandoned that quickly. This seems like it would work out a lot better, I might just have to give this a shot!

 

On a similar note, I have a Thorens with the old TP16 tonearm that I made a new armtube for, it's a composite of brass and aluminum telescopic tubes that are bonded with silicone adhesive, and then a small teflon tube runs down the middle to carry the wires, with the rest of the inside filled with silicone. Really provides a nice platform for the cartridge, with headshell solidly bonded to armtube. Anyway, some people stuff the armtube on the 1200 with cotton, but a better method may be to do like I did with the small teflon tube for the wires (the wires should really be changed anyway, so many relatively inexpensive options available for wires and clips), and then foam the inside to make it a more sold structure without adding much mass. Of course, it's not reversible, but the armtube does seem to be one of the weakest points, as it is on many of the lower cost decks (like on mine too)

If just doing the shrinkwrap, I might suggest coating the arm with a thin layer of silicone adhesive prior to the shrinkwrap for a good bonding layer, I think that would provide a much better damped structure.

 

It's by far the best $6 spent on my turntable. Nice thing is that if done carefully it doesn't distract from the looks of the turntable.

 

Where do you get shrinkwrap for a tone arm, what size,length,diameter.Is there a source for this specific application pre-cut and sized for 1200 arms? How do you apply?

 

Here is the post that I followed to do the shrink-wrapping of the tone arm- A recommended simple mod for your SL-1200!

 

Hi guys, i have a 1210 and considering replacing the tonearm with an Audiomods 1210 vta micrometer arm as in originators post but have 2 queries that i need clarification on before i pull the trigger on this upgrade. With the micrometer on this arm does it inhibit the fitting of the standard closing of the perspex lid?
I have spoken to jeff at audiomods and he says he is unsure of the dimensions of lid but says he can fit a smaller micrometer but then the thumb part gets close to the pivot section. Or second option is to replace the lid with a Decksaver technics one that sits on the plinth and is considerably higher than original but again unsure if this would be high enough to clear the vta micrometer

 

That seems strange since they show a SL-1200 fitted with one of their arms on the site. In any case, there's someone over at Audio Asylum that has a nice MK1 with Audiomods Series 5 arm, and I think it has stock lid, but don't know if it closes, you could send him a question, looks like he just posted recently so he's still around ...



Vinyl Asylum

 

Thanks for the reply, spoke to Jeff at Audiomods regarding this and with the standard micrometer fitted there is clearance he gave me the option of an even smaller micrometer but did say that the adjuster comes lose to the yoke. Anyway, ordered in polished version with continuous wiring from cart pins to phonos and looking like 10/10/17 for dispatch. Going to be also getting an Inspire Hifi plinth in walnut once arm is fitted but if the lid is an issue can always get a larger perspex cover to go over the whole tt and plinth if need be. Will post pics once its all fitted.