Hey forum, This thread is all about my experiences buying records in Brazil (and one or 2 other things). My main focus in collecting Brazilian vinyl is MPB, primarily from the '60s to '70s. Although, I won't hesitate to pick up something else if it looks interesting. So when I speak about prices and selection and so on, I'm mainly talking about MPB and not American rock or jazz et al. My first trip to Brazil was in December 2014. At that time I came away with only a handful of records. In June 2016, I returned to Brazil with a mission to collect many more. Here is how that went down. On my first day there I got to see Gal Costa perform in concert. This was just a dream come true. It was a seated venue and about half way through the concert Gal said, completely nonchalantly, "Quer dança?" (Want to dance?). That was all it took for most of the crowd to leave their seats and head down to the front of the stage. So I got to watch her perform from about 30 feet away. Thrilling. Over the next 3 weeks I visited many records stores. Unfortunately, on this trip I didnt make as many notes as I did on the next trip. But anyway, lets take a look. This is Baratos da Ribeiro on Rua Paulino Fernandes, Rio de Janeiro. On this trip I was only in Rio for a day and didn't get to any other stores. Here, among other titles, I purchased a copy of Robert Carlos' E Proibido Fumar and a copy of Elis & Tom. This is mostly a book store, but their small room of vinyl seemed to have fair prices. I think Elis & Tom was R$50. This is Augustas Discos on Rua Augusta, São Paulo. I believe they have since changed locations, the pictures I see on the internet show a much more organized space. What I remember about this store was they had a very large selection of Northeastern Brazilian music. As you can see they had a very decent MPB section.
This is Sebo e Livraria Alfarrabista Corsarium on Rua Augusta, São Paulo. The owner here is a nice guy and I thought prices were fair, mostly in the R$30-$40 range with a small selection on the 2nd floor of R$10-$20 stuff. I bought a stack of stuff here and got it discounted. He was nice enough to keep the store open past his closing time for us. I am fairly certain this is Sebo Nova Floresta on Praça Dr. João Mendes, São Paulo. This is mainly a bookstore. I asked about records here and was shown to the musty smelling basement. These were as you would expect, mostly beat up, common stuff and stuff no one wants. My wife found all kinds of 80's vinyl and we bought a huge stack, maybe 50 records. I think they charged R$1 per disc. I think I only picked out 3 or 4 of these for me, none were in very good condition. Still, this was a fun excursion.
Here is Loja De Discos on Avenida São João, São Paulo. I liked this place and their selection was rather good. I gathered up about 9 or 10 records and brought them up to the counter. Unfortunately, the guy behind the counter was too busy talking to someone standing 3 feet away from us and after waiting 10 minutes with cash in hand, my wife and I left.
Walk a couple blocks away and you come to Boulevard do Centro on Rua 24 de Maio, São Paulo. Here you will find, IMO, the best record stores in all of São Paulo. This is Tony's Hits. I bought a stack of at least 20 records here, and the owner was a very nice guy who threw in an Elis Regina 4 record box set for free that he had for sale for R$50.
Very nice! I suppose you already visited the Rock Gallery, São Paulo, huh? Although it's more skewed towards classic rock, there are a lot of records of almost every genre. I'm brazilian, but I avoid buying records from Rio de Janeiro. In the summer, it's not uncommon temperatures above 104 ºF there, and I don't think the record stores there have a flawless proper climate control.
A few feet away you'll see Cel-Som Discos. I bought another stack of records here. You can get a free vinyl tote bag here. I bought so many records, that I got two. You can see from the pictures that they had a lot of great stuff available.
A few feet away again, and you have Chico e Zico Vinil. I just loved this place. Vinyl paradise. I made a little test on this trip to Brazil. At every place I went to I asked if they had a copy of Andança by Beth Carvalho. This is her first album from 1969. She is most famous for her samba music, but this one is bossa nova. The *only* place that had a copy of this album was here at Chico e Zico. The guy didnt even have to search for it. Took him 5 seconds to pull it out for me. I bought yet anotherstack of records here.
A half block away you come to the Galeria Do Rock on Avenida São João, São Paulo. Now, if you are going vinyl shopping in São Paulo, my advice would be to go to Chico e Zico Vinil and the stores next to it. But... you have to see the Galeria Do Rock. There are numerous record stores in this shopping center with incredible selections. Here are some of the stores you will find. I went into some of them but by this time I was carrying around about 70 records with me and my money wasnt going to last forever. So I dont have a lot to say about these stores. The lady at Big Papa Records, must have been jealous I was carrying bags from other stores as she insisted that I take one of their bags, even though I didnt buy anything there. So you can also get a free tote bag from that store too.
These are the records I scored on this trip, most in very good condition, many in extremely good condition. All vinyl are original issues and in stereo unless I have noted a later pressing or as being in mono. 1. Ases Do Ritmo – Ritmos Do Brasil Em Estéreo (1959) 2. Jorge Ben - Ben (1972) 3. Jorge Ben - 10 Anos Depois (1973) (1981 reissue) 4. Maria Bethânia - Maria Bethânia (1969) 5. Maria Bethânia e Caetano Veloso – Ao Vivo (1978) 6. Maria Bethânia - "Mel" (1979) 7. Maria Bethânia – Talismã (1980) 8. Maria Bethânia – Nossos Momentos (1982) 9. Maria Bethania – Dezembros (1986) 10. Chico Buarque & Maria Bethânia – Chico Buarque & Maria Bethânia Ao Vivo (1975) 11. Roberto Carlos – É Proibido Fumar (1964) (1971 reissue) 12. Elizeth Cardoso & Zimbo Trio & Jacob Do Bandolim – Vol. 1 (1968, Mono) 13. Beth Carvalho – Prá Seu Governo (1975) 14. Beth Carvalho – Mundo Melhor (1976) 15. Beth Carvalho – De Pé No Chão (1978) 16. Beth Carvalho – Sentimento Brasileiro (1980) 17. Beth Carvalho – Alma Do Brasil (1980) 18. Beth Carvalho – Ao Vivo No Olympia (1991) 19. Gal Costa E Caetano Veloso – Domingo (1967) (1982 reissue) 20. Gal Costa – Gal Costa (1969, Mono) 21-22. Gal Costa – A Arte De Gal Costa (2LP) (1975) 23. Gal Costa – Gal Canta Caymmi (1976) 24. Gal Costa – Caras E Bocas (1977) 25. Gal Costa – Agua Viva (1978) 26. Gal Costa – Gal Tropical (1979) 27. Gal Costa – Aquarela Do Brasil (1980) 28. Gal Costa – Fantasia (1981) 29. Gal Costa – Minha Voz (1982) 30. Gal Costa – Baby Gal (1983) 31. Gal Costa – Profana (1984) 32. Gal Costa – Bem-Bom (1985) 33. Gal Costa – Meu Bem Meu Mal (1985) 34. Gal Costa – Lua De Mel Como O Diabo Gosta (1987) 35. Gal Costa – Plural (1990) 36. Gal Costa – Gal Costa (1992) 37. Gal Costa – Gal (1994) 38. Vinicius De Moraes – A Arca De Noé (1980) (1982 reissue) 39-40. Doces Barbaros - Doces Barbaros (2LP) (1976) 41-42. Tom Jobim – A Arte De Tom Jobim (2LP) (1976) (1988 reissue) 43. Nara Leão – Os Meus Amigos São Um Barato (1977) 44. Rita Lee – Rita Lee (1980) 45. Rita Lee & Roberto – Saúde (1981) 46. Rita Lee & Roberto – Rita Lee & Roberto De Carvalho (1982) 47. Rita Lee & Roberto – Rita E Roberto (1985) 48. Ângela Maria – Sucessos De Ângela Maria Nº 2 (1955, 10", Mono) 49. Ângela Maria – 16 Seleções De Sucessos Vol. 2 (1960, Mono) 50. Ângela Maria – Ângela Maria Apresenta (1965, 10", Mono) 51. Maysa Matarazzo – Ando Só Numa Multidão De Amores (1970) (1978 reissue) 52. Milton Nascimento – Caçador De Mim (1981) (I found this vinyl inside the sleeve for Milton Nascimento - Ao Vivo) 53. Milton Nascimento – Ao Vivo (1983) 54. Elis Regina – Samba, Eu Canto Assim (1965, Mono) 55. Elis Regina & Tom Jobim – Elis & Tom (1974) 56. Elis Regina & Tom Jobim – Elis & Tom (1974) 57-58. Elis Regina – A Arte De Elis Regina (2LP) (1975) 59. Elis Regina – Falso Brilhante (1976) 60. Elis Regina – Elis (1977) 61. Elis Regina – Elis, Essa Mulher (1979) 62-65. Elis Regina – Por Um Amor Maior (4LP box set with booklet) (1981) 66. Elis Regina - Nada Será Como Antes (Elis Interpreta Milton Nascimento) (1984) 67. Jair Rodrigues – Autografo De Sucesso 2 (1971) 68. Jair Rodrigues – Com A Corda Toda (1972) 69. Wilson Simonal – Alegria, Alegria !!! (1967, Mono) 70. Various - Café & Bossa Nova, 30 (1987) (1989 reissue) 71-76. Various - Discografia Básica da Música Popular Brasileira (10LP box set, missing 4 vinyl and box. Includes only 6 vinyl and booklet.) 77. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Ary Barroso (1982) 78. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - João Bosco & Aldir Blanc (1983) 79. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Cartola (1982) 80. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Dorival Caymmi (1983) 81. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - João Do Vale (1983) 82. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Gilberto Gil (1982) 83. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Luiz Gonzaga (1983) 84. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Tom Jobim (1982) 85. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Luiz Melodia & Djavan (1984) 86. Various - História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Adelino Moreira, Jair Amorim & Evaldo Gouveia (1983) 87. Various - Malu Mulher (1979) I also purchased the 15 disc "Total Gal" Gal Costa CD Box set.
In April 2018, I returned to São Paulo again. This time my wife and I decided to see some of the less obvious places to get vinyl. I took notes this time. We started with Sebo Do Messias on Praça Dr. João Mendes, São Paulo. This was a place we saw on the last trip but we were in a hurry and so I didnt really have time to explore much. Back then, the vinyl was all completely disorganized. This time around, they had actually separated everything into genres. Much better but selection is still not very good, as this is really a book store that just has vinyl. For example, one section featured what looked like over 400 Roberto Carlos albums. But on inspection it was really only multiple copies of about 4 or 5 different titles (his 80s stuff). But I did find a few things worth picking up. Condition ranged between horrible to very good. Checking out what you're buying is a process. First one guy looks at everything and computes the price and writes it on a piece of paper. Then you take the paper to a little window and a woman takes your money and gives change. Then you go back to the first counter and someone else bags up and gives you your stuff. Okay... It was nice of them to have a little sink near the front door to wash off your dusty hands. Purchased: 1. Roberto Carlos - S/T (1971) R$4 2. Roberto Carlos - S/T (1972) R$3 3. Beth Carvalho – Traço De União (1982) R$7 4. Daniela Mercury – Daniela Mercury (1991) R$4 5. Various – História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Custódio Mesquita & Orestes Barbosa (1983) R$7 6. Milton Nascimento – Anima (1982) R$4 7. Elba Ramalho - Do Jeito Que A Gente Gosta (1984) R$10 8. Elba Ramalho – Elba (1987) R$5 9. Various – História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Assis Valente (1982) R$5 10. Vanusa – Viva Vanusa (1979) R$12 Total - R$59
So after that, we stopped in again at Sebo e Livraria Alfarrabista Corsarium. A place we went to on our last trip. All of these records are in great condition, except for the R$10 ones, which are a little rough, but not too bad. Purchased: 11. Maria Bethania - Álibi (1978) - R$25 12. Various – Melhores Momentos De Chico & Caetano (1986) - R$20 13. Various – História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Chico Buarque (1982) - R$30 14. Roberto Carlos – Jovem Guarda (1965) (1971 reissue) - R$10 15. Roberto Carlos – San Remo 1968 (1975) - R$10 16. Beth Carvalho – Coração Feliz (1984) - R$10 17. Vinicius De Moraes – A Arca De Noé (1982) (1987 reissue) - R$30 18-19. Nara Leão – A Arte De Nara Leão (2LP) (1976) - R$50 20. Rita Lee & Roberto – Saúde (1981) - R$20 21. Elis Regina – Transversal Do Tempo (1978) - R$30 22. Elis Regina – Luz Das Estrelas (1984) - R$20 Total - R$255
Our next stop, some days later was to the very large street fair known as Benedito Calixto Market on Praça Benedito Calixto, São Paulo. Here you'll find all kinds of antiques, statues, silverware, art, and most importantly, vinyl! I didn't get any pictures while I was here. We were arriving as the whole thing was ending, so I wanted to see what I could find quickly. I was able to plug a few holes in my Gal Costa vinyl collection, which is nearly complete now. As you would at any record place in Brazil, bring cash. One guy in particular was really excited when he found out I was paying in cash. You can get great deals this way, as most are totally willing to discount a large purchase. I pulled this photo off of google. Purchased (vendor #1): 23. Gal Costa – O Sorriso Do Gato De Alice (1993) - R$75 24. Gal Costa – Mina D´Àgua Do Meu Canto (1995) - R$55 25. Elis Regina - Elis (1973) (1983 reissue) - R$65 26. Vanusa - Vanusa (1969, Mono) - R$150 27. Vanusa - Untitled (1971) - R$150 Total - R$495, discounted to R$300 (!) Purchased (vendor #2): 28-29. Gal Costa – -Fa-Tal- (Gal A Todo Vapor) (2LP) (1971) - R$220 ("Superconversado", I was told.) 30. Gal Costa - Cantar (1974) - R$75 31. Various – História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Caetano Veloso (1982) - R$60 32. Elis Regina E Jair Rodrigues – 2 Na Bossa (1965, Mono) - R$80 Total - R$435, discounted to $R400 Purchased (vendor #3): 33. Chico Buarque - Construção (1971) - R$60 34-35. Milton Nascimento & Lô Borges – Clube Da Esquina (2LP) (1972) (1985 reissue) - R$250 36. Novos Baianos – Acabou Chorare (1972) - R$250 37. Clara Nunes – Alvorecer (1974) - R$25 38-39. Elis Regina – Trem Azul (2LP) (1982) - R$45 40. Caetano Veloso & Gal Costa & Gilberto Gil – Temporada De Verão (Ao Vivo Na Bahia) (1974) - R$35 41. Various – História Da Música Popular Brasileira - Egberto Gismonti & Hermeto Paschoal (1983) - R$15 Total - R$680, discounted to R$550 (!) The vendor above was adament that the copy of Clube Da Esquina that I was purchasing was the 2nd pressing. I wish I'd known enough about this record that I could identify the various pressings, but I didn't. Another vendor nearby, also had this album. "Which pressing?", I asked. "First pressing." Then the other vendor, eager not to lose a sale insisted, "No, you have 3rd pressing!" It was quite funny. Of course I wanted the earliest pressing I could get of this album, and was hopeful that I actually was buying a 2nd pressing. But it turns out that I bought the 1985 reissue, which is AFAIK, the 5th pressing. But no bother, it's exceptionally clean, basically NM and so I am completely happy to have it in my collection now.
Only about an hour or so later, I came across a guy selling records on a street corner. Though I had just dropped a bunch of coin, I had to see what this guy had. He was a huge Beatles fan as evidenced by what records he had with him. I thought for a moment about buying some of them, as they were very cheap. Everything was R$10-20. But I figured, "I have all this stuff, on vinyl and CD, I'm here to get Brazilian vinyl." George Harrison and Pele: Across the street from the street vendor: Purchased: 42. Maria Alcina - Maria Alcina (1974) - R$10 43-44. Milton Nascimento – O Talento De Milton Nascimento (2LP) (1985) - R$20 45-46. Chico Buarque - A Arte De Chico Buarque (2LP) (1975) (1985 reissue) - R$20 47. Maysa – Os Grandes Sucessos De Maysa (1959) (1968 reissue) - R$10 48. Chico Buarque - Vida (1980) - R$10 49. Chico Buarque – Chico Buarque (1984) - R$10 50. Elis Regina & Toots Thielemans – Elis & Toots (1969) (1978 reissue) - R$10 Total - R$90, discounted to R$70
Whereas the last trip to Brazil was about Gal Costa, seeing her perform and buying many of her records, this trip had a sort of Elis Regina theme. I bought 2 biographies, one about her life and the other mostly about her music. I purchased more of her records. And my wife and I made the trip out to Cemitério do Morumbi to see her grave. It was very peaceful there.
Later that night we stopped at a bar at random called Papo, Pinga e Petisco and were surprised to learn that it was the site of the first place that Elis Regina ever performed at in São Paulo. We felt like maybe she was thanking us for coming to visit her. By the way, this place also had vinyl for sale in a room above the bar. Sadly, the room was not open when we were there and I was directed to a very small selection of bargain priced vinyl in a unlit corner of the dining area. I didn't purchase anything.
