Thorens TD-160 Mk1 anything obvious that needs an Update/UpGrade

Hi all

I have a bog standard Thorens TD-160 Mk1 and was wondering if there is anything obvious with this design that could do with an update/upgrade

So starting with a bog standard out of the factory model what sould I change/modify to improve its already good sound.

I have just fitted a new belt and oiled the platter and motor bearings and replaced the ancient interconnects with some Van Damme Interconnects so not quit bog standard, but where to go next

Options I have seen on others examples have been

Changing the tonearm,

Replacing the Plinth with a solid wood option.

Replacing the plinth base with something more solid that the hardboard used.

Fitting spiked feet

Sticking cork to the underside of the metal panels.

Would any of the above provide an improvement on its already good sound.

Any other recommendations.

Or would I be better of saving the money and just buying a better turntable

Thanks for any input on this

Paul

 

I use a cork mat and record weight. I bought a TD126 with a Denon Dl110 cart. It sounded great so maybe a cart upgrade. I wound up putting a SME3009 improved arm on it. But you still have a great table.

 

Not sure if mods just sound different.

 

The TD-160 is a great turntable.
The answer to your question is yes.

I have done all of the modifications you mention above to my TD-160
SME M2-9 tonearm
Solid hardwood plinth with birch ply base plate
Damping on the motor board and sub chassis
All provided incremental improvement from the stock configuration.

However, you won't hear the full extent of those improvements if the suspension is not tune properly and the arm is not set up correctly. I am not saying you have not done that, I just stress the importance of proper set up with the suspended tables regardless of whether it is modified or not.

 

Agreed. I would listen to for awhile before I gutted the damn thing. Immediately doing a million mods to it say something along the lines of: "Thorens made the best turntables, but they didn't know what they were doing like I do." We may be in a vinyl revival, but those companies back then had ears, too.

 

What cart. are you running on that thing? You can spend a bunch of money on it, but maybe it is good as it is. What say you?

 

Thanks for all the replies

The current cartridge is a Ortofon M15E super MI with a new Ortofon Stylus, was thinking of going gown the Ortofon M2 blue route, anyone know how it would compare to the old M15E

As far as I can tell the Tonearm is set correctly as far a tracking weight/Anti skip and cartridge alignment goes.

I suppose the easiest mod would be sold base and spiked feet, which can be done for little outlay, and then change the cartridge, unless the M15E turns out to be quite good as it is.

Thanks again for all the help.

Paul

 

Jack's right, let us know what cart you're using, and then you will probably get some more focussed responses.

It could be that your current one is an obvious first step for improvement - or - that you have a pretty well sorted front end and fettling is the best course.

 

Actually, the TD-160 Super came from the factory with all of the modifications mentioned and was generally delivered sans tonearm so you could choose the one that best suited your needs.

 

The super was an attempt to keep the TD160 relevant, when it had already been replaced and bettered by the TD-126 MKII. the main improvement was a bigger bearing, which is a lot more valuable than a beefed up plinth. I would drop my money on a TD125 before ever buying a 160.

 

The regular(non-Super) TD-160 has the 10 mm bearing just like the 125. The TD-125 was a model above the TD-160, it replaced the idler drive TD-124. It was introduced in 1968. The TD-160 was actually replaced the TD-150 in the line up in 1972 and was a part of the product line continuously into the 80's The improvements implemented in the TD-160 Super had nothing to do with relevance, just bringing a very good product to a higher level of performance.
The TD-125 is a fine turntable. I just prefer the simplicity of the 160.

 

Watching this thread with interest as I'm getting fiddly fingers! I love my td 160 mk1, it sounds superb but you can always make it better unless you make it worse, lol! I'm keeping the stock plinth as I love the retro look but I am going to make a new base for it. I'm trying to weigh up whether damping the sub chassis and motor plate will improve it or lose some of the life from the sound. The whole thing I love is the life in the sound, it is exciting to listen to and was the whole reason for upgrading from my project debut carbon. I've got some dynamat knocking around but I just don't know so hoping someone will come along and say whether I should do it of leave well alone.

 

The damping tightens up the sound. You can damp too much and have negative effects. I tried dynamat and ended up removing it and using this.

"Sonic Barrier Lightweight Vinyl Sound Damping Sheet 10" x 13"" from www.parts-express.com! »

It is a cleaner installation and doesn't over damp.

 

Check out Vinyl Nirvana for a treasure trove of improvements you can make for your 160.

 

+2 on that. Dave will do some consulting with you as well. He charges a minimal fee for it. He his a sharp and great guy.

 

a lot have said thst damping kills this aspect of lively sound.
i would buy a spare 160 and keep your standard 160.
use the spare to experiment.
yoi can compare the two then,
you could fit At 95E.
if that performs well then it bodes well.

 

Thanks. That's exactly what worries me. I'll have to see if I can source some over here in Blighty