Thorens with Rega arm sound quality vs Rega table

From reading a lot of stuff here and on other sites, it sounds like it is quite common to mount a Rega tonearm on a Thorens turntable. I'm curious on how this changes the sound quality versus using the same tonearm on a Rega table.

For context, I'm tempted to buy a TD-160 and Rega armboard and install the RB-303 from my Rega RP3. Aside from not knowing a lot about Thorns turntables, I hesitate since I'd then have the leftovers from both tables collecting dust, though I could always sell them or revert back.

And maybe I'm focusing too much on tinkering and should just continue to enjoy the RP3.

 

You know what curiosity did, don't you?! You obviously bought the Rega for a reason so enjoy it. Sure, there are better TT out there but there always will be. Once you start worrying about the sound of your rig at the expense of enjoying your music, you're on the start of a slippery slope to perpetual dissatisfaction, hifi envy and an empty wallet!

 

The RP3 is a better deck as is. Your 2m Bronze cartridge is nice as well. Get a better phono stage instead.
-Bill

 

I would contact Dave at Vinyl Nirvana and get his feedback. I know he doesn't have high regard for the standard Rega tonearm wiring. The plinths of these two tables are quite different. The Thorens is designed to isolate the Plinth from the rest of the turntable, while Rega of course tries to make everything as rigid as possible.

My opinion is that the Thorens chassis would likely outperform the Rega Chassis including speed stability. My old TD-166 has near perfect speed, even without an outboard controller.

If going the Thorens route, I think it's better to just get one already fully restored and modded from Vinyl Nirvana. Saving a couple hundred $$ by going the diy route isn't worth the trouble, unless you really enjoy that sort of thing. I'm sure he'd be willing to rewire your tonearm for a reasonable fee.

By the time I buy a new tonearm for my 166, I'll have invested 75% of what it would have cost to simply buy one of Dave's near mint tables.

Based on comparisons of my modded TD-166 to some far more expensive tables, I think a TD-160 super would likely be a significant upgrade.

 

theres a gorgeous looking td150 with rega tonearm on ebay i noticed over the weekend. Was half tempted to get it and sell my td160 but doubt it would be worth it.

 

Interesting. I certainly trust your authority on rega stuff. I have thought about a better preamp. I know a lot of people here like the lounge lcr.

 

A local store has a td-160 with a new belt, which if in good condition, would be much cheaper since I already have the arm and the cartridge. Vinyl Nirvana seems really awesome, though.

 

A couple considerations:

Mounting of the arm requires some cutting of the metal sub-chassis. One can use a Dremel, but I would only cut it with the sub-chassis removed, as to avoid contaminating the rest with metal shards.

If you remove the sub-chassis, you'll have to calibrate the suspension upon reassembly.

One of the big improvements of a modded Thorens is replacement of the plinth with one of solid wood, these cost anywhere from $200 to $300. Also, you'd want to apply some type of dampening material to the underside of the sub-chassis parts.

The standard wiring of a Rega RB300 impedes the suspension system because it's too stiff, though I believe the standard wiring of an RB202 is flexible enough.

So, as you can tell, it's not quite as simple as just swapping tonearms.

 

Makes sense. I'm not sure about the quality of the wiring in the rb-303.

 

Thorens themselves fitted the rega arm
To later 160,s i believe.
Many say it isn,t the best arm for the deck.
Now, a unipivot would be nice!
A Roksan Nima.
Going back to the rega
Its s decent arm and i see no reason
Why it should not produce an
Outstanding result.

 

I'm considering the Jelco SA750D for my Thorens, but it will require some wiring mods.

The standard TP16 arms aren't as bad as people claim IME.

 

The Jelcobis a superb arm.
I agree about Thorens arms..
Most are fine,
And underrated .
I use a 150 with standard. Arm.
I cannot fault it.

 

It seems like the most sensible thing would be to sell the RP3 and buy a restored Thorens, at least if the goal is getting the highest quality turntable.

Perhaps it would be best to upgrade the preamp in my secondary system while mulling things over. Having only Rega turntables at the moment, I'd really like to experiment with other designs.

 

Regas aren't bad, but I think you'd have to move up their line, possibly to an RP8 to better the performance of a decked out 160.

 

TD 160 properly decked out beats any Rega made. Period! And beats them on consistent playback. And will be spinning records many years down the line.

 

Thanks for your advice. I'll keep an eye on Vinyl Nirvana's web site and Etsy page for something to buy. I probably won't sell the RP3 since I actually like it quite a bit, and it can't hurt to have another turntable around the house .

 

Try & find a Thorens 321 far superior to the 160 or Rega

 

Years ago I compared a Planar 3 to a 160s. There was not a lot in it and would of stuck with the Thorens though changed for a Linn Axis (still a sideways step). On that basis given the improvements Rega have made in the last 25 years it would be advisable to stick with the RP3 until you can afford a genuine improvement such as RP8/10, Michell Gyro/Orbe, Notts Analogue AceSpace/ Hyperspace or VPI Prime etc.

 

I think VN does a good bit beyond the arm change out, including not only the wiring but damping, the different armboard, and most obviously the plinth. It seems to me that the stock arm on the 150 is ungainly to some but a solid performer. I'd stay with stock or go all the way as VN has but not do an arm change only maneuver.

 

But belt drive. If we must talk real superior, we might as well go full EMT and be done with it. Like the TD 320/321 (but they're high end tweaked out TD 160 only way better). Nice but not bombproof workhorses or have the idler sound (on dynamic material, big band big orchestra none better). I respect your choice, and have no issue with it, but big idler done right is the best of best. When you hear one done right, you'll get what makes it what it is. I'll respect and like you all the same, and you're a friend. That is a constant, and don't change as a rule. Your TD 320 is superb, but different strengths. And I like what great belt drives do (and I own one or two)

 

I have used all of these and more. I had a Thorens TD160 or TD165 and never liked the suspension or the arm. It was really sensitive to footfalls and had resonace and feedback issues. You'd think that was what the suspension was designed to help combat but on a wooden floor, it just made it worse. I have a another place, entirely different design but also with a wood floor and the same thing holds true. Even with a Linn LP12. I prefer the LP12, a few versions that I have had as well as the Axis to the Thorens. I prefer the Rega decks, my old Planar 3 even and now my RP6 to all of them. A couple of the LP12s were as nice sounding when fitted with very nice arms, if you could control traffic in the room. For a suspended deck, I also prefer the AR suspension, as simple and as old as it is, it was prone to less issues. Maybe I am as lazy as I am critical of fidelity but I find the Rega decks allow me to stop worrying about the deck and just play my records. My Planar 3 sounded great and had no set-up, operational, or adjustment issues for 20 years and the only reason that I moved it along was when I got an RP6. If the OP really wants to try a suspended deck, I would suggest a Linn or an AR, but really that he stick with a more solid design, like so many of the nicer modern tables. I would not call them suspensionless and many do as they all have taken vibration control into consideration and deal with it in other aspects of the design. The structure of the deck and the feet can be made to achieve excellent performance without springs. There seems to be trade-offs in either design path, but I am content with my chosen path!
-Bill

 

I was told the Linns are even more sensitive to set up. Yes, the Thorens require a rigid mount to get the benefits of the suspension. If placed on suspended wood flooring the springs require some type of damping material. I've tried placing cotton in the springs and got great results. I never once had an issue with feedback or noise.
I do understand the appeal of the Rega's ease of use.

 

More great food for thought. Thanks again. Any table with a suspension would be used in my office which has a concrete floor. In my living room which has wood floors I use a 2016 Planar 3 which is working great, even with plenty of foot traffic.

 

Agree Thorens and Linn Lp12 suffer from footfall on suspended floors and so did the Axis. I then went to a Michell Gyro which was pretty well immune to footfall on suspended floors even though it is sprung - as well as a big sound improvement. I have now sold that and a new Orbe SE has arrived ready to be unpacked.

 

That one statement says it all. No issues, no fuss, no worrying, no adjusting (outside of initial). I've played 20x more records in the last year with my RP10 then I did with my VPI. I was constantly fussing with the one and the only thing the Rega does is sound good with everything.