Upgrading your AT-LP120 turntable

Truly, it amazes me they make us do this to "greatly improve" the product. Could they not just issue a non-USB version wired and correctly grounded? Is that too much to ask?

 

I doubt they'd sell many as it would look on the box like it offers less functionality, not better sound. The ATLP120 is a starter table, and the functionality they include - USB, built in preamp - look like positive selling points to a new-to-vinyl consumer. Eh, it's an easy enough cheap DIY improvement for the relatively small amount of folks that would notice the improvement.

 

Hmm, might be a starter table but its very well built and you can get ridiculous sound out of the thing. I agree with your post except for the "relatively small amount of folks" statement. This is a significant difference and you dont need elite or well trained ears to hear it. It is substantial.

 

The biggest difference in the pre amp removal is the highs aren’t rolled off and the sound is more open. The volume seemed to increase a bit too. Sgt. Pepper stereo 2012 version sounds way more open. Great turntable to spin in the kids play room now. I spun many albums this afternoon and I now have a increased love for this AT-LP120

 

I hear the difference and I’m very happy with mine. My point is most buyers aren’t nerds like us and won’t go online reading about the preamp or even care. They’ll plug in and play and think it sounds good enough.

 

Sadly you're right. I got in an argument the other day with my friend that said "mp3's sound just a good as vinyl" and "he cant hear any difference." Sigh...unbelievable to me but his loss...

 

I have a small room for my system (6x9), at least for a few more years. So I'm about as much as I plan to do with speakers (audio engine a5+) til I get i bigger room. I currently have a AT440mlb, and it'll be time to get a new cart soon. Does it make any sense to upgrade to AT's shibata (VM750SH)? Should I save the extra $200, get another 440MLB, and use that money to get a better phono preamp (I have a Mani, maybe get a Lounge LCR MK3? Or get a subwoofer? I thought a sub might be overkill in my room. Or just get the 440MLB and put the extra $200-300 into more records?

 

I had the LP120 for a year and it was a good year. I did most of the tweaks and upgrades and was very pleased with the results. My LP120 gave me more pleasure and less hassle than the Pro-Ject Debut II or the Rega RP1 that I previously owned and it was more fun to play with.

After a year I got a good deal on a used SL-1200M5G in excellent condition so in a way you can say that I managed to find the ultimate upgrade.

 

I use the Ortolan Blue Headshell with the Ortolan Blue MM Cartridge, upgraded from red. I had no issues with hum from thesis carts or headshell. Checking the ground wire was soldered correctly on the circuit board or the RCA Wires are corrupt or the splice of the ground wires (if you pulled out the preamp) is soldered and correct is more likely the cause of hum. Also check your AC power connections are grounded.

 

It would be nice. I think the turntable was designed at a time when there were no amplifiers or receivers being produced at that price level that had phono stage. Fortunately that has all changes. Audio Technica could issue a no preamp version and increase sales. The sound without the preamp (pulled out of unit) is dramatically better! I debated for 2 years and wish now I had done it on day one that I bought the table. I have no desire to buy another table now. I use an Ortolan Blue MM Cartridge. I had the Red MM Ortofan as my first upgrade.

 

Agree completely!

 

Have any of you tried something like this to kill the pulsating motor noise? It’s kind of like the jug in 13th floor elevators. Once I heard it, i can’t Unhear it in quiet parts and am thinking of finally upgrading the table if I can’t kill it.



Also after removing the internal I’ve got a quiet hum mostly when I crank it up before I put the needle down. Does that mean I need to redo the ground inside better? Or it’s just one of those things to live with ?

 

That motor noise is the biggest reason I eventually retired mine and changed to my vintage Denon DP-37F.

The best thing I ever found to dampen it was a heavy, old-fashioned rubber turntable mat that I got off a $10 beater table from a thrift store.

 

Yeah I have a rubber mat and a cork rubber mat. I think I may be reaching the end of tweaks I can do vs getting a better table.

 

Yup. There's only so far one can go with it.

 

I wrote up my LP120 auto stop mod here before i noticed this thread. It basically uses a Reed switch to simulate the action of the start stop button when the record is done playing. Enjoy!

Audio Technica AT-LP120 Auto Stop Reed Switch Mod

 

Guys, so I'm in the process of removing the preamp.

From the grey wire i am left with a red, white and plain wire - so 3 wires. On the rca end i have a red, white and plain wire wrapped around each so 4 wires all up.

White connects to white.
Red connects to red.
Does the single plain wire connect to the 2 plain wires on the rca side?

Thanks!

 

With the Plinth on the 120 being plastic and somewhat resonant, has anyone thought of damping the plinth with dynamat or some other sound reduction medium?

 

I believe in the video that I watched that the blacks common to the bare wire, so yes.
I have not done this yet personally but I did watch a video on it for future.

 

They already did -- the AT-LP140XP:

AT-LP140XP Direct-Drive Professional DJ Turntable

 

I like that, have not seen that one yet. However I think it should come with a better cartridge than the AT-XP3. They need to make that a choice option so you can pick what comes with it.

 

It's a feature, supposed to cut the noise between tracks on dirty scratched records.

 

So is there an AD converter connected to the USB output? Reason I ask, there is a low pass filter on the preamp bypass. It's a series inductor followed by a cap to ground. I assume this is to block digital hash. The anti skating issue has been fixed on newer models.you can get a new spring and fix it yourself, good luck. Also the AT95e is a lower output cart, only 3.5 mv. Many other mm carts put out 5 mv or more. I tried to measure the capacitance of the cable and arm but that filter messes it up. My Artpre gave out but I replaced it with a BBE and it works fine with many carts. Even an M75 which likes 400pf. The BBE has 9pf input capacitance and I really like it for only $50.

 

I'm considering removing the pre-amp from my AT-120LP. I'll watch one or more videos first to see if it appears to be within the realm of my competence. But a few questions for the community first:
(1) In all of the discussions regarding such removal, I have yet to hear of a single person (no one) who has had any irreparable difficulty with such removal or has thought the result is anything but a clear sound upgrade. Anyone ever hear of a person failing at the upgrade or determining the resulting SQ was minimal at best?
(2) Those of you who have accomplished a pre-amp removal, do you feel a separate pre-amp is required, or is the pre-amp in a quality receiver/amp sufficient?
(3) Anyone have any recommendation for a particularly well made video instruction?

 

In my opinion, Not needed. I just used the switch on the back of AT-120 and ran an external pre-amp with great results...