Your Vinyl Transfer Workflow (sharing best needledrop practices)*

yeah. List your gear. But, each one of us developed our own workflow with our own software with our individual abilities and goals. You'll just have to develop your own. What works for, say, @ghost rider, won't work for me, and vice versa. Some people leave all the clicks and pops in, and some think nothing of using NR to reduce surface noise. Then, some people just want quick and dirty CD-R copies for the car.

When I started out doing this in 1997, I had no internet recourses to guide me. My first software was CD Creator. Then I got DCArt32. None of them worked to my satisfaction. I also realized that my methods of getting the audio into the computer was the problem. Then I discovered Cool Edit 96, and the ball got rolling from there. It was then I realized that my soundcard was the biggest impediment to my creating good results, so I upgraded that, too. Then, I went through dozens of de-clicking software, upgraded to Cool Edit Pro, Sound Forge 5, tried more de-click apps and plugins, Waves, all sorts of things. And, I just kept learning from the growing online communities. I used to try things like adding tiny amounts of reverb and compression to compensate for deficiencies, i've done it all. I once brickwalled a comp I made using Sound Forge's Wave Hammer, and it sounded very nice and transparent. It was a fluke, and I didn't write down my settings. Never happen again! My next goal, when I gather the funds, is to get software that will allow me to separate elements from recordings so I can tweak, repair, or remix them.

Anyway, once you get started, you have to decide exactly what your goals will be. Do you want to archive, do you want to master things to sound like they could be sold commercially, or do you just want to make quick copies for the car? Your call. Do you want to out in the time and effort? Are you the type to focus in on minute sound details for hours. Are you obsessive, or easy-going about sound?

It's up to you.

 

Are you saying that copying one channel over to the other will also offer the advantage of summing, as if the mono switch was being used? If that's the case, I'm likely to record in stereo and copy a channel. That way, I get the best of both worlds: I know that both sides are identical (thus offering perfect mono) but I also get the benefit of the noise reduction.

 

Ok, last question, and yes I've tried looking for an answer. Could I use a Behringer Xenyx as an audio interface just as easily as a U-Phoria or Focusrite? It seems more intutive for me since I've worked with mixing boards, but does the fact that it's a mixer make it a bad choice?

 

No, it won't.

 

No.

 

No, it won't work at all, or no, it won't be as easy?

 

I also started ‘needle dropping’ recently. Haven't established or settled for any particular workflow yet, as I’m still experimenting with different options.

My ultimate goal is to digitise/archive my record collection.

I use TT -> Pro-Ject DS2 USB ADC -> PC (VinylStudio software) chain.

So far, tried a straight double DSD (128) and 24/96 PCM with de-click, on a pretty clean and quiet copy of Neil Young’s “Zuma”.

Double DSD really impressed me sonically, so I’ll probably rip everything into DSD master first. Rips of more problematic (noisy) records will then be converted to PCM and put through de-click/de-noise process.

I’ve been also wondering if RX Elements would provide an upgrade over VS in terms of processing quality for de-click and de-noise?

Having a real blast doing this, learning new things along the way.


Regards

 

It's not a bad choice. Just as long as the music gets into the computer as unadulterated as possible, that's all that matters.

 

I'd record to pcm to begins with rather than convert from DSD if you need pcm.

I'm of the mind set that the fewest conversions and fewest processes are the ideal way to go.

I do no EQing digitally, preferring everything about the capture from analog left organic, except ClickRepair software I do use on every piece of vinyl I drop.

I don't do any normalizing after capture from analog to digital. If I am going to sum L & R channels to mono, I do it at the analog stage - cartridge input or pre-outs, never combining them digitally.

See, just another way to look at it and get outstanding results.

 

Thanks for that. Is there any consensus on what's the best affordable click repair (restoration) software out there?

 

Yes, one of the most popular is ClickRepair (correct spelling). No space between words.

It is a repair that does not mess with other parts of the music (when used correctly), just zapping the ticks and clicks leaving the music sounding untouched. It's cheap too which is nice.

 

I agree, this is wonderful software. Although having to install java and all that is a pain (i try to keep my computer as clean as possible). But the software is great especially for the price. Lots of options to change too, but I like how it doesn't really destroy the music itself.

 

Cheers. Just checked. It seems you'd have to send the owner an email requesting for the pay pal ,in order to obtain the licence?

Weird?

Regards

 

Where did you get that from? I just bought mine from Kagi. Fast and simple.

 

This is the message I get:

The kagi on-line store ceased to operate, without prior notice, on 31 July 2016. Please use PayPal. When I find a suitable alternative, I shall update this page.

 

Same here, I bought it recently and you had to send a email to the guy with your information. They then send you an invoice.

 

Correct. When I bought it a year ago, I had to wait about 3-4 days. But it was well worth it. He offers a free trial period if you didn't already know that.

 

I started needledropping 20 years ago. Regular PC with a regular sound card (Sound Blaster I think), ordinary interconnect cables, regular Sony TT with stock cartridge. Sometimes the results were excellent, mostly when the source was clean. I stopped when I found the processing was becoming more important than the music: listening to the finished product didn't give me pleasure.

 

Thanks guys.

I will send him a email.

Regards

 

Does the volume at which the needle drop is made matter? I'd been using a laptop and had set the rec volume to peak at around -6dB but for various reasons had abandoned that method in favour of using a Tascam DR40. The screen is quite small on the Tascam so the volume meter isn't so easy to read. I'd set the rec level to comfortably avoid clipping but have noticed (after several 'drops) that the level is much lower (around -10dB). Of course, I can normalise to my heart's content but does the lower initial rec volume lead to a poorer recording when normalised compared to one made at a higher initial volume?

 

If you're recording at 24 bit this will be fine.

 

No, not at levels -6dB compared to -10dB.
Best regards, and don't worry

 

Thanks both. Out of interest, at what point would a lower record volume have an effect? I'm assuming that this relates mainly to bit depth in terms of the use of bits, but I can't help wondering if it would also affect dynamic range.

 

Personally, I peak anywhere from -4db to -.2db at 24-bit. As long as there are no overs, all is good.

 

An LP has about 60 dB of dynamic range, so take the total SNR of your A/D and subtract 60 = minimum safest peak.