Record Revirginizer?

I tried wood glue once (just elmers wood glue) and it was such a pain and a half to get off. Not sure if I did it too thin or it dried too much but it was awful
If this is easier and if it were cheaper I'd give it a go but still a tad much imo

 

I tried Rain-X in my record cleaning fluid instead of pure alcohol. My thinking was that it would leave a film of silicone on the record to make the groove more "slippery". But it made absolutely no audible difference.

 

I tried two or three problem pressings but ultimately came to the conclusion that if passes through the Spin Clean, the VPI 16.5, and the Klaudio ultrasonic couldn't get a record sounding clean, it was a lost cause. So my expensive and mostly full bottle of Record Revirginizer now leads a lonely existence at the back of my cleaning supplies cupboard.

 

If you try glue again, use Titebond II (not III or the regular). Will leave a static charge though, but it comes off in a wet cleaning/vacuuming. At least one Titebond Extend variant is supposedly fine as well, and basically self-peels, though it will take longer to dry.

 

Mr. Fremer weighs in:

 

Weighs in with what? He showed us how to use the product incorrectly and never explained or demonstrated if the stuff works at all.

I'd never watched one of his videos all the way through before - my goodness.

 

Thanks, I've got another dollar bin one I can try it out on...maybe give another whirl.
I fear I ruined the other album pulling the glue off but I need to give it a good wash to see for sure

 

You *might* be able to reglue it and remove the residue from the other glue.

 

Would this be the same?
https://www.amazon.com/Jasco-GJMS00...F8&qid=1532733784&sr=8-7&keywords=liquid+mask

 

Looks very similar.

 

It is highly regarded. I suspect it inspired people to explore a cheaper equivalent, which is why the PVA wood glue method emerged after the Revirginizer first appeared. I think the Revirginizer is probably safer. I have half a bottle which I acquired, but haven't tried yet.

I suspect that those who have trouble with wood glue breaking on the peel are not putting enough on the record.

 

This looks very similar to stuff I used a few times back in the 80s. Don't remember what it was called but it came in a large black plastic bottle and had a very handy drying stand that looked like an autochanger spindle, for cleaning multiple records stacked above each other with black separators. Wish I still had that stand actually, it was infinitely more useful than the product itself.

The main complaint I had was it's habit of tearing when you peeled it off, especially where it was at it's thinnest - near the runout area. I wasted most of the first bottle I purchased re-doing my unsuccessful initial attempts. Bought another bottle thinking I must be doing something wrong, but it just never really worked right. I ended up spending more time picking stray bits of it off the vinyl with my nails afterwards than listening to the results. Noisy lead-in and runout grooves. It really wasn't worth the effort or expense.

I recently wet cleaned one of those old vinyl guinea pigs last week and smiled when I noticed there was some still stuck to the edge of the label after 30 odd years. Thankfully it's water soluble.

 

Unfortunately, this link is not working anymore, it really got me curious.

Well, I must say Record Revirginizer has become a very important item regarding records to me. I've used it on more than 35 records so far. From my experience, if you're careful enough spreading the fluid evenly on vinyl's surface, you can use half the quantity described on instructions. With 10ml (instead of 15ml-20ml described on the instructions) you can do it on one LP side.

To me the only (not big) inconvenience is that you must be careful when it's time to take it off from the record. Watch out for tiny pieces of dry revirginiver that did not come out from the record (they're more common on lead in and lead out). Rub those tiny pieces with revirginizer's own dry remains that you did succeed in taking them away from the vinyl so far, as they're particularly good to extract what is still on vinyl surface (but that will not work very well hours later, you must use it for that purpose immediately, so examine your record very well to see if there's anything left).

Also, make sure you use at least 3 paper tabs, and the paper must be a somewhat resistant one. Once, I've had 2 out of 3 paper tabs torn before the dry revirginizer would start to come out.

When it's the right time to peel the revirginizer film is not always an easy thing to know for sure. Still today I do not know if bad timing might be the cause of little remains on the surface (they will eventually come out, but if you find them you must give them special attention). Sometimes I get none, sometimes there's 3 or 4 tiny pieces on lead-in etc. I am not sure if that happens when you peel it too late or too early. Maybe, also using less quantity (10ml instead of 15/20ml) increases the risk of loose remains of dry revirginizer. On the other hand, I've seen that happen also when I used 20ml (following the instructions). Anyway, in all cases I was able to get everything out.

To me, the audio results were simply miraculous, whenever there were no deep scratches or surface imperfections (like warping, dimples or pimples.) No static and deep cleaning. If you inspect the lead-out, you can easily tell what part has received the revirginizer from what part hasn't (the part that has received it shows a deeper black tone).

It's really a cool thing to apply it, take it out, and them immediately rip the album side (and I mean immediately, once the revirginizer is out, place the album on your TT and start ripping it). If it's an album in very good shape, it might sound just as new, like not a single pop on lead-in when played from the first time after the procedure (on second and third plays, naturally, pops start to appear). If the record issues have nothing to do with cleaning, there's no point using it.

Real problem to me is that is really hard to find.

 

I wonder if it works on cuts from shaving and similar. Sorry for off

 

Record Doctor V Record Cleaning Machine-Audio Advisor

 

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Thank you so much for this!!!

 

I have used the re-virginizer and recently I bought another bottle, I guess that explain my position. However I have had mixed results and I am talking about noisy records that visually look good. If the record doesn't look fantastic it will clean it but it probably won't much difference in regard of the noise. I had some noisy records that after the treatment provided amazing results noise wise.

In most cases it does reduce the noise to certain degree but does not eliminate it and with some records despite looking really good it made no difference at all and those remain very noisy. I would recommended to certain point, I think it is too expensive for something that doesn't provide 100% noise reduction results but it certainly cleans, it can be smelly unless you leave the record in a well ventilated place while it dries.

 

Wow .... this looks kinda "whacked" IMHO. That said, I am a true audiophile and have spent stupid amounts of money on audio gear in the past. I believe that vinyl does have a sound more pleasing and natural than digital sources - they both sound different. That said, part of the CHARACTER of vinyl for me is that while it may sound different is also sounds NATURAL for the medium - pops, clicks, and drops all in. That said, I do have a record cleaning system and use it on all my new acquisitions, however, this "system" is just too hard to believe for me but YMMV which is what makes the world go around