Thanks. So no need to cut out anything from the new stylus assembly? I’ve seen on a couple other sites mentions of people cutting out the cantilever and the “plug” that fits into the cartridge. Wasn’t sure what they meant. Hopefully this will all be clearer to me once I get the replacement stylus.
I did this with my Virtuoso - replaced a bent cantilever with a 95ML stylus. Here are pictures after cutting out the plug and after insertion into the cartridge.
Thank you! Those pictures are awesome. That’s the same stylus I’m considering. How do you like it compared to the original? What do you recommend using to cut out the plug?
Not sure about the original stylus, the cantilever was bent when I picked up the Marantz. I put in an LP Gear Vital Line stylus first, then went to the ML. Both sounded very good but the ML was a bit better sounding to me. I used a box cutter with a new sharp blade to perform the surgeries.
Correct. I have the pulley correct, but within minutes of playing the first record, the belt slid off of the platter just as others have suggested. I had no idea what went wrong at first; all I heard was my record slow down as if the power had been cut. I then put a mouse pad under the motor and have had no such issues since.
Recently I've been thinking of replacing my Rega P3/Elys 2 combo. Current contenders include: the Marantz TT15-S1 (stock cart); Technics SL-1210GR (unknown cart); Rega P6/Exact. The Marantz appeals to me partially on aesthetics. Any thoughts on these models' relative strengths and weaknesses? (including my P3)
This thread was very helpful in setting up my TT15S1. I noted some differences in above posts though in my particular installation: Installing the pulley, so the top of the pulley is flush with the motor spindle, has the belt riding very low on the platter, like the very bottom 1/4, so I have my pulley raised up a mm or maybe 1.5mm, and it's still on the lower 1/3 of platter for 33rpm, and below center for for 45rpm. Not sure if the goal is to have the belt running on the center of platter, but for that, I'd probably want a small coaster under the motor. I'm using 2 grounds, one from the bearing, and one from the tonearm assembly, both connected to amp ground. No hum until volume is at max on amp (Marantz PM7005), and at that point very slight. In contrast to previous table, a Teac 300, with AT95e, the hum would start at about 2 o'clock. Very pleased with the phono pre in the amp. But do look forward to trying some other phono preamps. Sound is overall better on Marantz, stereo separation is noticeably better, as is bass, and dynamics, than the cheaper table, though this might be due to cartridge. I didn't use a protractor for VTA yet, but VTF is set to 2.2g, anti-skate is with about 3 threads showing per a post above. Headshell is not full forward, but the docs don't say to do this anymore, so I just set it about 3/4 forward. The headshell is keyed so when attached, only adjustment is a bit forward, or a bit back, which I presume the protractor and arc guides adjust for. I set my arm height for no pad (used only counterweight height, did not add felt shim, to accomodate thicker 180g vinyl, and not sure if I will use mat or not, initially not using. Have a remote power switch on order to avoid inadvertently moving motor during power on. Edit: the manual does state that the stylus tip should be 32mm from the end of the tonearm, so by eyeballing it, my placement of the cart slightly forward puts it at about 35mm, so perhaps the manual is saying to put the cartridge in about the center of the available range. Really glad I got this table. Now I have to sort out some kind of dust cover and of course, led lights!
The main thing I miss having moved from a Technics 1200 to a Marantz TT15 is the ability to easily and quickly swap headshells/carts. If you are patient, I think you could probably find a better deal on a TT15 (e.g., open box) than either the P6 or Technics.
Adjust overhang with an arc protractor or by measuring 32 mm, you will achieve clearer and more detailed sound and no IGD
Where can I buy an arc protractor for the Satisfy arm. Not looking for something to print out. I'm not sure I trust the ones on ebay, or can I?
It's the same 222 mm spindle to pivot distance as Rega and Micro Seiki and some others use, so protractors are widely available, you just have to decide what geometry (Stevenson, Baerwald, Lofgren, etc) and style of protractor you want.
This is where I get confused. Which is the correct protractor for my Marantz? What are you guys using?
There isn't really one "correct" protractor. If you want one that matches the Clearaudio Satisfy specified geometry of 222 mm pivot to spindle / 17.31 mm overhang / 23 deg offset, it would be Lofgren A with IEC inner/outer groove radius ... I just print out the protractor from the Conrad Hoffman tool above for aligning my Satisfy arm ...
Spent a couple of hours of OCD tweaking with this, and have settled on the Baerwald accutrack template listed above. Position is now very close to above image position which is Lofgren, or if 0 were closest position to pivot, and 10 were furthest point from pivot, cart is now at about 4. Sound is sublime, but have not seriously compared with other methods.
I've used the printed one recommend by members here. Don't really understand why would anyone need to spent money on this. If there is a concern about the scale there is a linear pattern on the printout to verify again a ruler.
You can print one out, or buy this one for $60 here: http://www.accutrak.us/clearaudio-satisfy-unify-universal-verify.html but that assumes you want Baerwald, and trust that the Marantz arm is exactly the same parameters as what the accutrack product used for reference. Not sure why you wouldn't just laminate the printout, or make a few printouts?
Question for those of you who own the TT15 and/or the ClearAudio Satisfy tonearm. How far does the horizontal bar on your cueing mechanism raise up? Mine only goes up 2mm. That seems a little low to me.
Checking with drill bit between aluminum block and bottom of rest, I read about 2.5mm on my Satisfy arm lift. Seems like plenty to me, that measures over 15mm lift at the cartridge, so subtract a few mm for record and lift clearance when down, and it still looks to be at least 10mm lift above record on my setup (though I have a Clearudio table). I think we talked about it with pictures earlier in either this thread or the other big one, but there's a couple adjustment points for the lift geometry.
I've recently received a protractor created by Yip at Best Tractor. This was recommend by members of the forum. The one I ordered is based on the Marantz TT15 specs. It is very nice and I will be using it for years to come. Best Tractor Mint LP Solution Best Tractor / Arc Protractor / Mint Tractor / tonearm alignment / Yip Mint Protractor / Mintlp Protractor
Is that a program you need to pay for? Or can I find that same protractor online. Perhaps you could email me the file?
No prob, any questions just ask. If you print one out, good idea to check it with scale, there are a couple 100mm reference lines to check and adjust printer scaling, if needed ... I just use a razor blade corner to cut around the spindle hole, pretty easy to get it accurate, some people use the pin method and make a lot of tiny holes around the circumference of the hole, same idea, just quicker with razor blade or sharp X-acto knife ... you can always use some spray adhesive and glue it to an old beat up record if you like too ...