New Line Magnetic 508ia Integrated Amp

Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by GoldprintAudio, May 20, 2016.

  1. Chris Amott

    Chris Amott Forum Resident

    Location:
    PNW
    I am actually out of town and away for the next month so can't try anything, let alone listen to my system :(
     
  2. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
    Sorry you have to wait. It'll give us both something to look forward to. :)
     
  3. islander777

    islander777 Member

    Hi everyone, I’m new to your forum :)
    I bought LM805ia back in March and enjoying it since. Even with stock tubes I love it (It’s my first tube amp, and I’m new to the whole tube rolling thing, so I guess I’m not spoiled yet).
    The tube rolling bug bit me and I think I’m ready to start some experimenting.

    I’ve read all 109 pages of this thread and ordered my first set of Tung Sol 6SN7WGTA (whatever I could find, but guess these are well rated?)
    I read from your posts that Mullard ECC35 for 6SL7 is very highly rated, however they are very hard to find and the price is not budget friendly at all.
    Hence my question - is there anything else for 6SL7 that is close to Mullard in sound quality department, but maybe a bit more available?
     
  4. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    I dont know what's the experiences for others on the LM805 or LM508, but I found that Brimar CV1985 / Brimar 6SL7GT sounded quite close to Mullard ECC35. They are selling for around USD70-100 compared to USD250-300 on the Mullard. A note though, I found that Brimar has a higher noise level compared to Mullard but not really noticeable at listening level unless you turn the volume to the max. for noise inspection.
     
  5. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    Thought I will add this...
    IMO, Mullard ECC35 is really worth it. You get all very well balanced, wide soundstage, clarity, etc...very pleasant to listen to.
    You should at least try to get one used in great condition at a more reasonable price; you wouldn't be disappointed.
    Oh before I forget, remember to get one with slim base, either black or brown base. Can be relabeled but make sure date code is either 1347 XX / 1347 XXX (early code) or RU1 BXX / RU2 BXX (later code). These are made in Blackburn. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2021
  6. islander777

    islander777 Member

    Thanks you. My problem with Mullard is that I can’t find any NOS stock at all,
    And the used ones in good condition start at ~$250.
    Here is the only “reasonable” deal I can find
    Mullard ECC35 Valve/Tube D Getter Black Plates 1347 F1 Coded (V43) | eBay
    Is this the one?
     
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  7. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
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  8. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    Yes, I have also bought some tubes (Brimar CV1985 / Brimar 6SL7GT) from this seller before, however, I would not recommend buying this ECC35 from him. He has just listed some ECC35s recently and all of them dont show picture of the top glass, hence, you cant really tell whether the tube has been lightly or heavily used.
    One more thing about Ebay, you can always message a seller with offer even if the listing has no make an offer option. I have scored quite a number of nice tubes with more reasonable price this way. Most of the time, sellers are willing to accept your offer as long it is quite reasonable, so dont be afraid to negotiate.
    Lastly, you need to be patient, patient and patient...no kidding. It is really worth it to take some time to get a decent ECC35 than another 6SL7, IMO.
    BTW, I have 9 pcs of ECC35 and they took me more than 2 months.
    Good luck.
     
  9. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
    Why?
     
  10. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    Collection...lol
    Nah...I dont think I would ever stop playing tube amp, no harm stocking up since price of vintage tubes will only go up every year. I dont wish to pay $1K for a ECC35 years later.
     
    Cassius likes this.
  11. islander777

    islander777 Member

  12. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
    All depends. This tube looks just great to me. I do have a Tung-Sol 6C8G with adapter that sounded *significantly* better than stock, about 80% to where the Mullard ECC35 is and costs much less. Since I'm not using it, feel free to contact me if you're interested.
     
  13. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    Be careful, that is not a real Mullard ECC35, looks like a Brimar to me. Always check the internal structure when buying tubes, do not just trust the title.
    Check here:

    Mullard ECC35
    A nice owner of various ECC35s posted his collection here, so you should stick that ECC35's look into your brain, so you wouldnt get cheated...LOL

    Brimar CV1985

    ...and no, a brand new Brimar CV1985 doesnt cost GBP150, you can get it for about US$100-125. I have 2 pcs.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2021
  14. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    Go here: 6SL7 ECC35 CV1985 CV569 VT229 5691 | tubemongerlib
    and study the structure of Brimar and Mullard.
    Just be patient...good luck.
     
  15. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
    Now that you mention it, you're right! Didn't examine the tube that much, to be honest. My mistake for jumping to conclusions when I had a bunch of things to tend to simultaneously. I should've simply come back to it.

    This looks more and more like a relabeled job, although I don't think it's the same Brimar you linked to, the so-called Mullard has a rectangular getter (or spacer if we want to be precise) when all ECC35s I've seen have a round one.
     
  16. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    You meant the upper mica and not getter? Anyway, both upper and lower micas, the grey round plates, and the fat base tell me it is definitely a Brimar. Too familiar with Brimar becos they give me a not so good experience...LOL. One of my CV1985 (2 pcs) has gone microphonics and another 6SL7GT (3 pcs) started to develop distortion on the right channel after about 50 hrs of usage. The others are fine but are nosier (all tested at max. volume) compared to other 6SL7s I have. I dont think it is a coincidence, I believe it is due to a poor design.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2021
  17. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
    Brimars are a dime a dozen in the UK but are marketed somehow as if they're rare.

    Those parts carry different names. Technically, the ECC35 doesn't have a getter; I was merely trying to convey my thoughts but the mica is another popular term. Should always be circular in an ECC35; not rectangular. Thanks again for catching that! :righton:
     
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  18. Chris Amott

    Chris Amott Forum Resident

    Location:
    PNW
    Is this based on personal experience? I have two ECC35's, one regular and one a CV569, both short glass with fat brown bases. The former is the tube listed on USAM that @Strat-Mangler mentioned Mullard ECC35 Brown Base (I don't need two). Am I missing out on something by not having an earlier slim base version??
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2021
  19. Strat-Mangler

    Strat-Mangler Personal Survival Daily Record-Breaker

    Location:
    Toronto
    I had both, though not at the same time. I don't recall any difference in sound.

    I currently have a tall glass one. The ECC32 in the 6SL7 still bests it in all the areas mentioned in my other post. Really curious to read your thoughts when you get around to giving it a go. :)
     
    Chris Amott likes this.
  20. Ontheone

    Ontheone Poorly Understood Member

    Location:
    Indianapolis
    I tried a 1940s RCA JAN CRC-5691 that sounded decent in the 6SL7 but a 1963 Mullard ECC35 blew it away and I never felt compelled to try anything else after.
     
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  21. islander777

    islander777 Member

    Wow thanks heaps! I’m glad I asked here first!

    I’ve located a few NOS Mullard ecc35 locally, the guy should send me photos later today. Fingers crossed :)
     
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  22. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    I cant say but I have read it somewhere that slim base sounded better. Dont take it too seriously though as it might be due to system setup or just personal delusion. Mostly, I heard there is basically no differences in black / brown fat base and black / brown slim base. I have 5 pcs of slim brown base and 4 pcs slim black base and they all sounded the same to me. Perhaps I should get a fat base and do the comparison myself.
     
  23. islander777

    islander777 Member

    So the vendor sent me few photos of the brown bases ECC35 that he has. He also has some black bases that will send later today. Can someone confirm we are looking at the right tubes?
    The ones with a slim bases are true NOS and a matching pair, he wouldn’t sell separately.. Is it a concern however that there is no stamped “British Made” on them?
    The one with fat base is slightly used but tests very good (seller words). Should I consider it at all, or it’s better to avoid fat base after all?

    Will post photos of black bases tubes once I get it from the seller.
    thanks!

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2021
  24. Chris Amott

    Chris Amott Forum Resident

    Location:
    PNW
    I would be circumspect of anyone who claims that they have early ECC35's that are truly NOS, but maybe they really are. Does he have pics of the top of the tubes? Are there any date codes on the slim based pair? Depending on price and the above, I might be interested in splitting the pair with you. Feel free to PM me if you are interested in this idea.
     
    tlowe likes this.
  25. tlowe

    tlowe Life Explorer

    Location:
    somewhere
    Yes, these are ECC35 alright. Holy cow, they look like first generation with black plates if I am correct. Date code should be 1347 M*.
    As Chris has mentioned, always get these info if possible before making decision on the purchase:
    1. pic on the top of tube
    2. date code (pic is even better)
    3. test reading (you need to at least get an idea whether those tubes are still measured strong as well as if the plates are balanced. If he is a vendor, he should have a tester)

    How much is he asking for the fat base? Perhaps Chris and you can share the pair and I take the fat base.
    Let me know, thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2021

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