Put the laser pointer on the top of the speaker, centered so it's directly above the tweeter, and perpendicular to the front baffle.
That's what I did also, per your advice. It's the perfect way to measure height relative to the other speaker as well.
Yes this! I discovered, due to a slight bulge that had developed in the pad under my rug ,one speaker was an inch higher than the other. Flattened that bump out did some repositioning, moved 6' apart and adjusted toe in, and obtained a denser center image and slightly richer sound.
Denser image. Richer sound. Yes! Also, in my room, more three-dimensionality. Jon, have you experimented with crossing speaker axis about 1 meter in front of your listening position? If not, it's worth a try. Before you start, though, put some blue tape on the floor to mark the starting positions. Also, folks without corners can create pseudo-corners with free standing baffles perpendicular to the front wall. A hassle. I know. But, a possibility.
Thanks Grant! And no I haven't experimented with crossing a meter in front that's an interesting idea maybe I will play around with that this weekend. No can do on a false corner though on the right is the bedroom door and the left my rack but it's ok I love the sound I'm getting now.
Hello, I want to share an experience that I had by chance. For some time, it seemed to me that my AN-J had a somewhat boring restitution, very centered on the medium ... I tightened the three retaining screws and the tweeter came back to life !! What intensity in the restitution, the bass is firm as on a closed speaker, I had forgotten how much I love my AN-J
Peter Q once told me that best way to set up the E, if they are in corners, is to aim the drivers so they cross one meter in front of your head. Mine are corner placed. I have experimented with many different placement angles. I found out that best angle in my room is crossing about 1 meter in front of the listening position, just like Peter said. I am not sure if this holds true for the J or K.
My AN/Js are in the corners of the front wall, and are aimed about a meter or so in front of the listening position; this worked best for me, after trying out a number of speaker positions. But every room is different, as are preferences. Bottom line of course is experiment and find what sounds best to ones' own ears.
The advantage of using a laser guide with a target is knowing exactly where the speaker axis intersect. It can also be done with a string, etc. Otherwise, it's guesswork done by ear. Once I used a laser guide, the image locked in like never before. Even if the axis don't intersect, a laser guide can be used to match toe-in angles by measuring the distance from where the laser hits the back wall to the side walls (or from a center point directly behind the listening position.).
I mentioned a few months ago that a fellow audiophile that I knew had a Tomei integrated amplifier and an S-8 SUT for sale. Those have now been sold. This now leaves a CDT Five transport for sale as well as a DAC 4.1/X Signature for sale. Please DM me if interested and I will put you in touch with him. Very rare to see a used CDT Five for sale. In fact this is the first that I have ever seen. I have been really happy with my CDT Three transport and have been told that it’s an impressive upgrade to the Four or Five (but expensive : )).
Is this an old model of the Audio Note AN-K LX? Because of the edges, it's slightly more BBC looking.
Just sharing my system, mostly Audio Note. Behind the record is a 0.1 DAC and a Chinese Tube buffer recommended by my AN dealer. Signal is all AN wiring except the phono cable, saving for it The IQ3 is doing well on the SME 3009. In the future I might upgrade to the new upcoming Thorens arm or Sorane TA-1. Off course a AN arm would also be great, especially regarding the cable, but I like to have an arm that fits the TD124 aesthetically too Might be possible to get an AN cable for the Sorane.
Thanks! I think it looks more beautiful than the newer ones, but I have no idea about the sound differences.
Just a FYI regarding the word "restitution." Here in the the U.S., restitution is a legal remedy term having to do with the restoration (to compensate for damages) of something of value, lost or stolen e.g. victim of a crime. A court order of restitution holds offender partially or fully accountable for the financial losses suffered by the victims of their crimes. So, although the gist of what you were describing above got through, the term itself was not used in it's usual context.
Hello, In my main langage, we use sound reproduction to talk about listening rendering. I get help from Google translation for my interventions, thank you for correcting me when it does not seem understandable to you, it helps me
No worries. My response wasn't meant as a criticism either. Fully understand the problem of conveying ideas in a language not your own. I thought the use of "boring restitution" was an interesting twist. I took it to mean boring presentation. I suppose coming from the Swedish (tråkig återgivning) to English, boring rendition might also work -but it depends. Google translate sometimes gets it wrong.
Thank you, very happy with it. Still feels “down the rabbit hole”: you start somewhere and a lot of little tweaking, cables, money, trial & errors further….but enjoying all of it. Thanks. The red is actually more of a “deep metallic bordeaux red”, not so good visible on the picture. The TD124 was restored and upgraded by Hanze Hifi in The Netherlands. Very cool to hear the difference in every part that was upgraded/changed .