Feel free to laugh but I have been astonished at the high sound quality of my old NX-E800 Yamaha bookshelf speakers which were originally part of the small desk top audio system in the “PianoCraft” series. A pair of these came my way and I was expecting nothing but these turned about to be incredibly musical little piano black beauties. And they actually work well with fairly low tube power(22 watts) and high power mosfet amps ( my Denon and Yamaha A-S3000). I created a thread about them but I don’t think many here have experience with them.
There's no risk of the circuit blowing up or anything like that just by removing those two capacitors, the input capacitors would still be in place for some RFI immunity, but there is always some risk in physically damaging the board or nearby components, or doing some other damage to the unit, depending on skill level of the person doing the work. Below is from the A-S3200 service manual showing the phono board schematic (right channel with part of left) and board assembly, with parts circled. In the 3200, the capacitors are C821 (right) and C822 (left), while the input capacitors are C807 (right) and C808 (left). If possible, I would unsolder the parts so they can be restored, if needed, but I think the board would need to be removed to do that. How were you going to remove them?
How’s it going fellow Yamaha peeps … anything new ? If I remember correctly , Yamaha is supposed to be coming out with new reference SACD/CD digital spinners very soon unless that changed ?
I sent a query to Yamaha around new year, bemoaning the discontinuation of all their CD/SACD players, and asked if there was something in the works. Here's the reply: "The decision to discontinue the CD/SACD players, was from our global sales and marketing teams, however as yours is not the first time we have had this question sent into us, we will pass your comments and suggestions back to our European sales and marketing teams, who can then in turn pass this info back to our engineers and designers in Japan, so hopefully we may have some more high end CD/SACD players coming to the market in the future." So who knows?
I probably downloaded it from Yamaha A-S3200 Stereo Integrated Amplifier Manual | HiFi Engine , you just need to register, they are a great resource.
Unfortunately, I can't register here, the site stubbornly does not miss my vpn. Do you have the opportunity to put it in my folder on Google drive? Or another way? https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Gf8c9nVG4qcNsFoW2UlZZ4QrtbOyUWf1
At 3200 - if you believe the service manual, the output is still the same MLE20 from Sanken, MOSFET. Let me know if that's not the case. Put the service manual from A-S2200 here, you need to look there too.
yes, the MOSFET issue was resolved quite awhile back... the A-Sx200 models also use MOSFET's but Yamaha stopped making a point of it in the marketing literature. It seems apparent to me that MOSFET's became "new" again, for a new generation of audiophiles, so Yamaha touted them in the A-Sx100 series. But, if they were the "latest" thing in the x100 series, MOSFET's would seem outdated in the new line. So switch the focus to something else... the toroidal power supply!
What’s more interesting with these Yamaha amps is use of the old Circlotron (floating balanced) topology. These Yamaha amps uses a circlotron-push-pull topology with common-emitter output stage, from what I understand.
Good afternoon! Please tell me if you have found a zero offset controller for the A-S3000, although there is no such controller in the service manual. What year of manufacture is your A-S3000 (and you are not confused with A-S3200?), which has such a zero offset regulator for the main amplifier (not for headphones)? Perhaps you still have a box and you can upload a photo of the batch number/year/serial here? PS I am now looking at A-S3000 used from a neighboring city, but the owner cannot answer about the presence of an additional regulator, says that he does not see the board through the slots of the top cover, and does not want to remove it...
Not sure if this is helpful, but @Karl Tryggeset (hello again, Norway) may have posted the info you need (but from an A-S2100 SM) in this coma'd-for-a-year thread: Bias adjusting - Yamaha A-S2100 . {A-S2100 shall not be very warm in idle if the bias current is adjusted correctly. However, it looks like many of these amplifiers runs very warm in idle, because the bias current is adjusted to high from the factory. According to the service manual the bias shoud be adjusted the measured voltage on CB103 and CB203 becomes 8.5 to 9.5 mV. From the service manual: Adjustment 1. Turn all the semi-fixed variable resisters for idling current adjustment counterclockwise fully. [..] }
Good afternoon! I carefully read the manul service and tell everyone that my message above was incorrect, it turns out that in the new versions of the A-S3000, a zero offset regulator was added to the output terminals of the main amplifier, DC Offset. The quiescent current regulator was also in previous revisions of the A-S3000. The presence or absence of a zero regulator at the output can be determined by looking at the board of your amplifier, there will be 2 tuning regulators or 1 tuning regulator on the amplifier boards closer to the transformer. For older revisions of A-S3000, it is not possible to adjust the DC Offset if it differs from zero. In this regard, EVERYONE who reads this, please measure your deviation from zero at the terminals of the amplifier, what is the potential there?
I purchased A-S3000, the sample came from the latest revisions, with offset regulators (as in a-s3200) Upon arrival home, I immediately opened it, started setting it up. Offsets: Right -59mv, left +40mv. Exposed in +-1mv Quiescent current: Right 4mv, left 6mv. Exposed in 14mv. In a simple tactile 45 degrees Celsius. Fell on the sofa, satisfied, thank you all for your attention)
Posted this over on the Technics SL-1200 GAE/G/GR general questions thread, but thought it's worth a share here. I picked up an AT-VM540ML for my SL-1210GR w/o a KAB Damper and it sounds fine through the stock GR RCA cables and the A-S1100 phono pre. I also have an AT-VM95ML. The 95ML sounds a tad darker. The 540ML sounds crystalline and open. It does not sound overly bright to my ears as some have claimed it. Speakers are Harbeth P3ESRs. Some info on my space and some follow up in the Technics thread here for anyone interested: The Technics SL-1200 GAE/G/GR general questions thread
Very cool ! Good to see you using the stock Technics cables.they seem to be well made and They work quite well imo !! I use the stock Technics cables on my 1200G going into my parasound JC3 jr and AQ cables going to the Yammie 2200. I personally preferred my JC 3 JR to my Yammie internal phono but it seems you found a good match with the AT !
Quick question, and sorry if this has already been answered. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I used to have a Yamaha A-S801 and liked it except for the phono stage. For that reason, I sold it. At which model does the A-S series start to have a phono stage worth using? Or is there such a thing? And do the higher models still include the onboard DAC that the 801 has? The amp I currently have has a great onboard phono (at least to my ears) but if I could get a Yammy that gets rid of the need for an external phono amp and DAC I might try it.
Looking at the service manuals and online pictures, the A-S1100/1200 up to the A-S3200 share the same discrete phono stage. The 320pF input capacitance is still kinda high for some of the MM carts, and the 2mV overload margin and 50 ohm input impedance is a bit low for some LOMC carts, and multiple electrolytic coupling capacitors notwithstanding, by most accounts it is a good phono stage if you can stay within the limitations.
