Translation - "I've spent thousands on power filtering and power mods and spent hours convincing myself and more importantly, the wife they do make a difference...I think! Please guys...help me out here!"
I myself definitely can hear huge improvement on hiend fuse. They even have different sound signature, especially SR fuse. They do sound different between the black, blue, orange…
Tried SR Reds and they made a big difference At the time I think I had Rega Isis, Technics deck, Belles Pre and Monos Now I have a single SR Red into an Audio Magic conditioner with US (no fuse) sockets Legal in the UK
No, I've spent thousands on power filtering and power mods and it took about five seconds to hear the drastic improvement made by each. No need to justify anything - drastic improvements worth every penny or I wouldn't have purchased them. With all these tweaks, dealers will always allow you to try a demo or provide a refund, so there's no need to keep anything that doesn't do what you want it to (I have demoed many tens of thousands of dollars, if not hundreds of thousands of dollars of gear I did not buy because I didn't like how they sounded.)
Fuses are above all else about protection. I simply don't trust the audiophile fuses to protect my gear and the one time I tried a SR Blue fuse I couldn't hear any difference. It's all stock fuses for me - specified by the manufacturer.
Exactly. I don't want something someone 'who thinks they know what's best' overriding the specs and standards of stuff that works a specific way for a reason. Maybe we need Audio Science Review to test a load of them and see if they A. make any difference (I doubt it) and B. they are up to safety specs. It's good that highly accurate digital testing equipment is now available to mere mortals to actually test this stuff so we don't have to take the word of say Audioquest for granted. I have to say much of the findings so far are disappointing. Especially if you have invested a lot in the 'wrong end' of your system.
I ordered the new SR Purple fuse. I tried the SR Orange fuse two years ago. I didn't care for it. Their 30 day money back refund does work. All I had to was pay for return shipping. The audio grade fuses do make a change in the gear. I'm using the Acme silver fuses in my dac, cdp and amp. They definitely step up the pace of the music. One guy in our club has a Purple fuse in his tube pre-amp. It replaced a Orange fuse. He says it makes the Orange fuse sound like a stock glass fuse.
2 months ago I changed 3 fuses in my system. 1 main in the amplifier and 1 in each speaker. Now there are Hi-Fi Tuning models, Ag models. The sound difference is not drastic, of course. It exists, but it is small. I felt the biggest difference when I listened to some BluRay concerts that became cleaner and better defined. I have a feeling that the bass also got more on fine definition and got a little deeper than before. Maybe I would notice a bigger difference in everything if I changed all the fuses in the system. But my amp has 7 fuses. It's a lot of money Not to mention other components ...
I'm holding off for an expensive dedicated audiophile fuse burn in machine to come on the market. I'm told 500 hours is when they really come into their own.
So purple is the new orange? SynerDoucheTools site is full of sooooooo much BS. Show me the science behind the cable cooker.
People with strong (physical)science/engineering backgrounds dont buy into the nonsense bc they know better. Others not so much. Note: I do believe that a small % of people with superior ears and systems can hear differences in cables. IMHO burn-in is BS in the case of stereo cables(nothing getting much warmer than room T).
Unfortunalty its a BIG Yes! And its one place Ive avoided, trying to draw a line but ive succumbed to it. And they DO! I have found manufacturers that use audiophile grade fusses in their gear and in some cases there are different fuses to choose from. They have a great selection here: Fuses - Accessories
there is no science understood worth investigating. They make some of the best sounding Everything. They listen with their ears.
Fuses are designed to be a weak link in the power supply. Making the fuse transmit current worse is more important, see below. Sure. See R1 in the power supply filter below. Replace it's resistance with an equivalent bunch of fuses. Otherwise, guess what: you fell for it. Bump an old thread with a product plug? Wait until you experience the pace and timing of just bypassing and soldering the AC mains wire to the other side of the fuse.
And add unnecessary fuses (thus creating unnecessary micro-arcing and Eddy currents) to their power cables to create a cable "perfectly tailored to an individuals tastes". And dont even think about turning your stereo on for 10 days with a new SynerDoucheTool power cable, lest you screw things up! DoucheTool finds a new "secret source" of the same purity silver he was previously using and suddenly performance improves by leaps and bounds(and cost jumps by $5k). But heh, whatever floats ones boat.
These guys know a bit about fuses, good read. I could see where a slo-blow fuse with a wire wound filament could have inductance, and therefore attenuate high frequencies in the > xxx kHz range, but in 60 Hz power that noise is already down over 100 dB. https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/el...ittelfuse_fuseology_application_guide.pdf.pdf
I found that some equipment sound quality is sensitive to fuse ratings. This is more apparent with twin core mains equipped from the east or generally more budget gear. I prefer the sound of 5A fuses over the standard 3A supplied with Japanese cassette decks for example. My Nakamichi’s sound smoother with 5A, but more forward and sparkly with 13A, so I might change the fuse depending on the recording I am trying to make. With 3 core mains, if they are not captive plugs, I prefer to use MK plugs which have larger contact area circular screw down clamp for wire endings. I often polish off the tin coating at the fuse ends hoping that this improves the flow, I also silver solder the bare wire ends of power leads into the plug to stop them fraying or oxidising. Then I regularly polish the plug pins and internal contacts with Duraglit. It’s cheaper than buying expensive rhodium plated plugs. I use a True Colours 6 way mains block and lead, which does make a noticeable improvement on background mains hash.
UK electrical regs are odd, compared to most of the world You can legally get around all those fuses by having a US or European style block. Fuse to the block. Plugs to the kit don't take fuses. Internal fuses are still there
