That is not what I want to hear, however it will have to wait a long time. I will first play with cable lifters but for the moment I am not prepared to devote the time in comparisons or something else to worry about. I am currently fairly happy with my sound, I wish I had more time to enjoy it.
No opinion about the worth of after market audiophile fuses. Spend your money where you want. However the designers and makers of the audio equipment use fuses for a very specific reason. They are suppose to fail if certain conditions are met in the circuit they are in. I have never seen an audiophile fuse with certified test data showing their ability to fail (protect) is the same as those supplied with the gear. Not all fuses are the same in the way they fail and under what conditions they will. How many devotees of these fuses have first checked with the company that made the gear and asked if the warranty still holds if the fuses are replace with whatever model and brand being considered? The first question I always ask when parts swapping is; "does the new part do the primary function equal to or better that the original"? For fuses these are simple tests and why no documentation of "correct failure" is included in the other less easy to validate claims is a question all potential users might ask.
I hear THAT! I dont want to either. I have a bag full of fuses someone lent me i haven't tried yet! Do you have carpet? I noticed on carpet you need the risers but i found on Tile or a Hardwood floor it made little difference. ~ Allegedly.
Do you require that documentation when you buy a 20c fuse? How do you know the ones you buy are up to snuff? I didn't realise people where so fuzzy about their ordinary fuses too.
No carpet, I have hard wood. I went pass the stage of disregarding tweaks once I confirmed cables made a difference. Fuses are something I like to try but it is a lot of work, time and money when I still have other priorities that are more important to me. If sometime in this lifetime or the next one the opportunity arises I will give a try to the lifters and fuses but there are also several cables I like to upgrade first hopefully within this lifetime
I have tried various HiFi Tuning and Furutech fuses and could not hear any differences so I just keep my fuses clean using a CAIG kit and leave them alone as I have never had to replace one either. I have gotten real results just by paying attention to setup.
Yes when I go to replace a fuse, panel breaker or any other device designed to protect a system I check the nomenclature on the item or in the catalogue to make sure it is what is supposed to be there. If an audiophile fuse was ordinary it would not cost what it does. Show me where any seller of them states that their product will protect the gear just as the original does and give the added benefit of better sound. Also let then offer a guarantee to back the items warranty when their fuse is used. Your right in the sense it is an ordinary fuse. Let them tell us it is that and will work like any other ordinary fuse and give better sound. Besides if you think any fuse will do, ok for you. Who needs a fuse that does not fail when and how it is supposed to? Might as well take the guessing out and replace them with short shunts of copper or for the best sound get short sections of gold wire and shove it in there. We all know 1/4" of gold will sound better that the same of copper. Why do you think there are so many types of fuses? Because they all do not work the same is why.
To those who don't here a difference in hi end audio fuses are lucky. Why,because their bank account stays fuller.
IMHO the "best" fuses (dont get me wrong, I am NOT into fuses, but could see where there might be a select few with killer ears and systems who might be able to blind ABX pick out fuses (IE actually hear differences). 1. Are machined from single piece of (perhaps really pure/single crystal, perhaps not depending on users sound preferences) metal(eliminates 2 weld interfaces, which might improve sound to those with golden ears and systems). 2. Make the best/most contact with holder (to increase the real area of contact:apparent area of contact ratio, a tight fitting fuse holder will also help by increasing pressure on fuse). This would mean that the fuses and holder are made to tight tolerances(circular, low TIR- total indicated runout), have smooth surfaces, are both cleaned before fuse is put in, and some type of contact enhancer is used which will effectively increase the real:apparent area of contact and thus reduce micro-arcing and Eddy currents. Something like Stabilant 22 both cleans and enhances contacts. It will also keep the fuse/fuse holder interfaces in better condition for longer(prevent oxidation, etc).
An electrical fuse is a safety device that operates to provide protection against the overflow of current in an electrical circuit. An important component of an electrical fuse is a metal wire or strip that melts when excess current flows through it. It helps to protect the device by stopping or interrupting the current. Will the "liquid" allow current to pass? Audio Magic Nano-Liquid Premium THE WORLD'S FIRST LIQUID FILLED FUSE. We take premium fuses and fill them with our special polymer to reduce ringing inside the fuse -- then treat the fuse with our famous Nano Stream Technology. This makes our fuses the most detailed, dynamic and quietest fuses on the market today.
imo current flow should be the same. The issue may be the fluid cooling the element and preventing or delaying its operation. Basically raising it rating.
I have solder pure silver 18 gauge wire across the fuse holder. It didn't sound as good as a hi-tech fuse. Golden ear club members we are not. But we hear the difference.
Audiophile fuse??!! What the fk is going on here these days man? Hey Schmoe, i've got an audiophile tea i can sell you for 4000 bucks. If you drink it, everything will sound organic, musical and effervescent.
Should have used solid Cu 8 AWG 1/4" diameter, same as fuse. Cut to length, strip a bit of installation off each end. Good for 1000 A for 1 sec. Or 3000 A for 0.133 sec DO NOT DO THIS!!!
For now I'll stick with the silver stuff. Copper wire is to warm for my taste. All of us has a opinion on fuses. SR fuses come with a 30 day return refund. So if you don't like it you can send it back. Today the purple fuse is out for delivery. So I will know how it works out for myself.
Be interested what you hear Price in the US $199 Price in the UK 190 GBP, equivalent to $260 at today's exchange rate
Power fuse correct? An inch of Cu wire that is a much larger gauge than the 100's of feet of smaller Cu wire feeding the gear? Most service feeds are Al. Transmission/Distribution lines are steel
I have one fuse in my tube amp. One in my tube dac. And one in my cdp. All three have the Acme loaded cryogenic treated silver fuses. I will be placing the purple fuse in the dac to start with.
