Best 100$ that I had spent on my Audio System

That quoted passage is incorrect. The term "Bad Boys" was coined by a member of a msg board who was gushing about them during the earlier years of the Internet. It is NOT used for every version of Sylvania tubes. For instance, there are 2-holed and 3-holed series of tubes but "Bad Boys" is just for the 3-holed iteration. The term is unfortunately used as shorthand to mistakenly designate Sylvania NOS 6SN7 tubes regardless of year or architectural design... which is wholly and fundamentally incorrect. Sellers use the term to attract buyers but what you are hearing is NOT the Bad Boys.

Not even close. The design is quite different, from top to bottom.

And it's not 1953 ; it's 1952.

 

Why the need for matched? The're preamp tubes ; not power tubes.

 

If they are not matched, one channel may play louder than the other channel.

Thus even for input tube, I am looking for matched pair.

 

That is a huge "may" involving lots of factors. Generally-speaking, unless the tubes are drastically different in their ratings (to the point where one measures as new while another one has half its numbers), there won't be any (noticeable) differences in channel volume.

 

You have got a plenty of Sn7 to use it for your life.

They look honest then tempting.

 

We have to think about the future. Maybe we will have new and better tubes, maybe not?

There are only so many NOS tubes out there, while these may not be your goto tubes, I find that having any tube for a back-up is better than having no tube.

These are so inexpensive,they are definitely worth having a few of them around.

Russia has a lot of surplus NOS tubes because their military used to keep large inventories of them.

This is an excellent source for old inexpensive tubes.

 

My amplifier is a zero-feedback design, the gain matching for the two channels is subject to slight variations governed by the amplification factors of the individual tubes. The matching is most dependent on the two 6SN7 tubes for each channel (there is also one 6J5 type for a total of three input tubes per channel, feeding one Svetlana 572-10 triode power tube for about 10 single-ended watts). If both 6SN7 tubes on one side have a higher amplification factor than those on the other, that side could be a dB or so louder. It's not an obvious difference (according to the manual), but it can cause the image to shift slightly to one side.

The image has always been pretty much dead center no matter what set of tubes I've tried, but to make sure I always look to find four 6SN7 tubes that are of the same make (for consistency of sound quality) and as close in amplification factor as possible.

 

I agree with you. For good imaging , I also use matched pair for input tubes.

 

Strat, here are some examples of Sylvania 6sn7s that were made just after production of the genuine "Bad Boys" ended in mid 1953. The eBay seller called these "Baby Bad Boys", they were genuine NOS and only $160 for a matched quad. From the pics I could tell the plate structures on top were just like those of the "Bad Boys", but since these are shorter bottles than those fabled tubes, I couldn't see the posts in the substructure to see if there was a lot of copper used. And notice the date codes shown -- three were produced in late 1953, and the remaining one made in early 1954. But hey, these were the genuine article (of early Sylvania 6sn7s), strong NOS examples in a matched quad -- just what I was looking for (short of an actual unobtainium quad of genuine "Bad Boys"), so I bought them!

The first thing I did when I got them was get a flashlight to look down to the lower level below the plate assembly -- sure enough I saw a lot of copper down there! So the main differences in these from the "Bad Boys" are a short bottle that hides the posts below, and chrome added to the tube glass tops.

And the sound is fantastic. I've not heard genuine "Bad Boys", but I believe these should have a similar sound signature. Smooth, clear, missing nothing that I can tell across the frequency range, crystalline extended highs, well you know, more realism to the sound all around.

 

I've just tried early 50s Brimar 6SL7GT and 6SN7GT and while the SL sounds awesome in my LM508ia the 6SN7 did not. My current JAN CNU 6SN7GT National Union has to my ears a more laidback and warm, balanced, detailed sound.

I have some alternatives I might consider. Any one tried them in LM508?

• Ken-Rad JAN CKR VT-231 6SN7GT Black glass
• Sylvania JAN CHS VT-231 6SN7GT Made in USA (black bottom, white/silver text)

There's also a US made National Union 6SL7GT available. Looks like greyish/silver smoked glass and a lightning before and after "union" written in silver/white on black base.

 

I liked Sylvania 6SN7GTA the best with angled plates. Never heard the Tung Sol 6SN7 round plate that is reported to be the best. The GTA at end of tube number guaranteed 1954 or earlier production. Later 6SN7GTB angle plates sound different and not as good.

 

Ken rads or Sylvanias?

 

Also, are these the Sylvania Vt-231 Bad boys? I have a set of those..

 

Exactly why I probably will never go to tubes, it's a freakin' rabbit hole. My Heresys sound fine with a SS amp. I will spend money on better carts for my turntable...

 

Some like rabbits. Some like Britney spears. Some don’t care.

 

cables - used.

 

Yeah, probably used cables.

 

I hope that you broke them in real well.

 

Copper Bells

 

t could be rabbit hole.

But it is also lot of fun.

How can you get so much improvement after spending 100$ except tube rolling.

Most decent cables cost more than 500$.

Tube rolling cost less than cable rolling with more pronounced effect.

 

I'm sure it is fun. When I stop having fun with what I already have, perhaps I wall explore tube amplification.
Just don't want to add more things to "the mix" of stuff I'm already playing with. I think it would be better for me
to find a reliable tube amp, that someone has already found the optimal tubes for, and not have to dick around
so much with them. I have trouble enough deciding what kind of cart that I really like.

 

Just bought a pair of Sylvania 6SN7 1940s vintage NOS from Vintage Tube Services.
They are getting expensive.
Going into the output stage of my Modwright Oppo 105D.
Replacing a pair of Sophia Electric 6SN7 Tubes.

Does anyone have any experience using the Sylvanias with the Modwright Oppo?

 

Just bought matched pair of Sylvania 1940s vintage 6SN7 from Andy at Vintage Tube Services. Put them into the Modwright Oppo 105D. It uses the tubes as the output stage. Its all subjective of course, but I think I have more detail and definition.
138$ each.
Has anyone else had the same experience with the modwright Oppo?
As someone relatively new to tube changing, what could I expect changing out the Sophia Electric 6SN7 with the vintage Sylvania???
How long do the tubes take to burn in?
Warm up?
Overall, I gotta say it, I think I have a real improvement in the sound.

 

NOS Sylvania will last at least 5K hours or more.

There is no need to buy Sophia Electric 6sn7.

NOS Sylvania has more details and dynamics than new production 6sn7[/QUOTE]

Nos tubes do need burn in less than 100 hours.

 

NOS tubes are leaps and bounds better than modern ones.

I have sets of RCA blackplates, Amperex and Mullard from the late 40’s to mid 50’s for my phono preamp.

Completely different sonic signatures so I can voice my system.

My faves are the Mullard. Followed closely by Amperex. But the RCA tubes are great for rock records giving a nice chunky sound.