CD-R Recorders?

I'm thinking of purchasing a stand-alone CD-R Recorder. Has the technology improved? I was told a while ago they were not very good. In addition to CD's, I would also like to copy some of my LP's. Do you have any recommendations for me (brands, models, etc.)? Prices ranging from $250 to $600. Thank you.

 

I use my PC for CD burning. I also have a standalone-The first Philips CD Recorder. It's still going strong. Back in the day when audio CD blanks cost $10.00!!! the Philips was able to be fooled and I was able to use $2.00 computer blanks and saved a ton of money! A very neat thing back then.
So, I recommend Philips.

 

I have had a Philips stand alone CDR recorder for about three years, and I am very happy with it. It cost me about $650, but I am sure they are much cheaper by now!

I have used it to make cdrs of cds, lps, and cassette tapes.

I also have a computer based burner (Plextor) that I am very happy with as well. I use both for different "projects".

A friend of mine has the same Philips (model 650 I think) and he has had no problems with his either. He took the plunge about a month before I broke down and bought mine!

Hope this helps.

Tony

 

I have a Pioneer Elite PDR-99. I don't think it is still available, but you might find one on eBay or somewhere. This was a $2000 unit, and it works great! It is also a very good CD player. It has manual controls over the recording levels, so you are not stuck with the signal level that the ALC decides on.

This is a great way to get old vinyl to CD-R, without having to drag everything to the PC.

:-jon

 

TDK-3826

Stand-alone bliss...

Easy rips from vinyl to CD...even easier CD to CD.

Really nice sounding deck, too....I use it as a multi-deck party player...

Do a search on my simon and see what you can get it for...bought mine new at Costco.com for $250...

Tom Port really loves this deck too...if that carries any weight with you.


Ben

 

I have the CDR 870 the fool-able one...

 

I know you didn't ask about computer burners, but I still recommend going the computer route. You have MUCH more flexibility and control with anything you want to do.

I just bought a Plextor for my wife's new high-end PC. I installed that bad boy in the case CPU in about five minutes and the thing works like a dream! NO complications whatsoever! I burned a CD-R at 20x without a single hiccup.

Just another choice...

 

I also prefer my PC burner. I purchased the Standalone unit before my PC burner. I still use it on occasion for analog recording. Works fine.

 

I have both, computer and stand alone audio cd-r machine. I will say this, I prefer the stand alone (Philips CDR-950) by far to any sound card I have tried so far when it comes to burning from an analog source. Some will argue you have more control with a computer cd-r system, and while that may be ture, with the exception of track marking after burning a lp to the hard drive, most of the flexability I have found degrades the sound. This is especially true with noise reduction and tick and pop removal systems. I have heard some people get great results manually editing and fixing the pops, but that is extremly time consuming, and when I tried it, it tried me.
When it comes to copying cd's, they both are for the most part equal, but every once and a while, I find a cd that can not be burned on the computer, beats me as to why, but it does happen. Even with this, for some odd reason, I still feel that copying a cd in real time on a stand alone burner (mine I need a source to play the cd, useing a an optical out, then jitter reduction, an option, then coax in to the cdr-950) seems to sound a bit better, but that is maybe just me. Everyone has differnet criteria for what they like, what they will put up with to get it, and enjoy.
If you really want the ultimate in stand alone flexability, check out the Alyss 9600 (I think I spelled the Alyss part ok?). This has a hard drive in it, you can burn multiple cd's or analog sources on to it. Mix and match what ever you want, add track marks after the fact, and plus it gives you multiple bit and sample selection. You can select any combo of 44,48,88,and 96 Khz samples rates, and 16,20 or 24 bit. If you are really into getting the most out of a analog source, a 24/96 cd-r is the way to go. Of course you can only play it back in the 9600 machine, or a computer that has a sound card capable of doing this. It cost around $1000 most places. Other wise, check out the pro Sony machine, it is about $500, and has SBM capability for analog sources.

 

TimB, I keep saying that the main reason people experience sound degredation when processing sound in a computer is because they keep doing it in 16-bit, and probably with less than quality software.

WHY does this keep falling on deaf ears?

 

I'm listening Grant.

 

Thank you!

 

Hi,

I second that recommendation. I have the Sony CDR-W33 and like it very much. Holy Zoo also has one and I believe he will also give it a very good review.

-Jeffrey

 

Although I use my computer 99.9% of the time I also have a Sony RCD-W1 standalone. It's has always made flawless copies - never has produced a coaster yet - and I've had it a year or so.

 

Yep! The SBM a/d creates delicious CDRs from vinyl. I highly recommend it! Great price too, and it's a "pro" burner so no need to buy audio-only CDRs.

HZ

p.s. I only use Kodak Gold CDRs (they use real gold as reflective layer, not silver as nearly every other brand) - grand stuff.

 

I stocked up on them a few months ago. Did you find a secret outlet for them? When those run out will you switch to something like Mitsui?

 

What do you Gentlemen think of the Marantz CDR-500 and the HHB CDR830 Burn It Plus models??

 

I second the PDR-99. Excellent deck, never a coaster, sounds fantastic!

 

Yeah, me too - I really stocked up too, I think I have around 400. They should last me awhile

Not sure what I'll do when I run out, but I'm hoping that either Kodak brings back the line by then, or someone else comes out with another non-silver product.

HZ

 

I've got a CD burner on my computer. But I've never heard a copy that was as good as the original.

 

If you are making 1x copies of the original CD, perhaps it is because

1) the sound is going trough the soundcard or
2) the playback CD ROM is converting the bit stream into analog first.

I make copies on the PC that are indestinguishable from the original.

The only way to ensure that your copies aren't going through some analog stage in your computer is to burn at more than 1x.

1x is NOT more accurate, as it causes increased errors on your copy.

 

Is anyone still selling the Gold Kodak CD-R's? I never got to try them out in my Pioneer PDR-99.

 

What's wrong with silver?

 

Silver oxidizes easily. Gold doesn't. Yes, silver (and all other) CDs are lacquered, but if an scratch gets through (or, if for some reason the lacquer turns out to be gas permeable over time) then your silver cd is going to be toast.

A couple of years ago, when researching the subject of best CDRs to use, I ran into an article that summarized the findings of a simulated aging study done on different CDR types, and Kodak's gold came out on top, with something like two to three times the life expectancy (this is from memory, so don't quote me): while CDR manufacturers claim lifespans in the 100-200 year range, the findings from the study believed it to be more like 10-15 years for silver, and 35-75 for gold (I repeat, this is from memory).

If I get some time, I'll see if I can dig up the article.

As an aside, most of the CDRs that I burned in the early 90s area now dead (can be read). Indeed, all of the TDK CDRs I burned in 1996 area nearly gone, and I bought premium TDKs back then because I though so highly of the brand.

Anyways, I'm sticking with the Kodak gold's for now. It's really a bummer that they stopped producing them (too costly and couldn't compete with $0.10 silver cds). They have come out with a sort-of replacement line that is an alloy of gold and silver. Don't know the life expectancy compared to silver though.

HZ

 

Kodak stopped production of them some time ago. They have/had a sizeable inventory that they were still selling online a couple of months ago. I have not been back to see if the supply has been exausted yet. I'm sure there is some retailer somewhere that still has some. I know a LOT of people, pros too, that stocked up on them.


Luke,

I knoe you didn't ask me, but ain't nothing wrong with silver. It's just that gold is claimed to last longer and is supposed to be immune to oxidation over time.

I would say that the next best bet in CD-R is Mitsui, and they claim that the siver is just as good as the gold. In fact, many claim that gold is not as reflective as silver or silver/gold dyes.

These days, i'm sticking with Sony, Mitsui, and Imation. I use my Kodaks very judiciously!