What would be really funny would be if you went back to the power strips and realized it had sounded that way all along.
For me to build a hi quality strip of 8 outlets and adding 4 hi end conditioners with for the parts it will hit me close to $470.00 plus tax in parts, shipping and my time plus I have to take the box and machine it at my job. I can design the box easy with mastercam. edited: I mean above medium end quality conditioners. If I want get top notch filters its almost double the price each. One thing for sure this is better than the $700 power conditioner in the market.
It's always good to have a nice firm connection but the firmness of that connection does not affect the current flow. Hospital-grade receptacles use the same contacts as regular receptacles but they just have a smaller gap which causes that contact to grip the plug firmer. It's like using vicegrips on a nut. You can clamp it onto the nut with a light force and if you're not careful, they can twist off. Use more force and they're less likely to slip off. But the contact area is the same for both pressure settings.
In the past I indeed have hardwired a Krell class A power amp directly into the mains. Not a safe or approved method - but since the amp was a power hog and doubled up as a room heater it seemed like a good idea at the time. That amp was sold long ago.
I received this thing as a gift and I had absolutely no preconceived notions or expectations to what it was or wasn’t capable of. It really blindsided me as to effective it was. I wouldn’t have believed it if someone told me but now that I have it in my system I’d never be without it. I don’t really care how it does what it does just that it does it.
LED's are typically powered by a SMPS or converter. The output is regulated and constant over a wide input range. If they got much brighter there is something else going on other a volt invresse in line voltage. You voltagge likely varies a few volts over the course of a day, or even hours, or minutes when your AC kicks on.
Everything into a power strip Average draw 1.5 A Peak <4 A mounted below console Single point of disconnect Surge, UV and OV protection Cut the cord down from 10' to 3' No measurable V drop between wall and strip
I wish I only had 4 things to plug in. My power amp is plugged into the wall but I'm using 14 more outlets on two power devices for audio, video and lighting. And just for audio, 4 large wall warts. I did have my outlets replaced and checked by an electrician.
Number of years back, I had something similar done in the basement, where I had a couple of adjacent boxes installed for a total of 8 outlets. At the very least, it was far more convenient than the unmitigated mess that preceded it. Did it sound better? I don't know—that's not why I did it. Anyway, a year or so ago I completed downsizing of gear. What was left or replaced moved to the other side of the room. Power strip. So it goes.
"We're Background Gibberish, from Washington D.C. Sorry about the electrical problems... couldn't be handled. Alright... GO!"
Solution: These were easier to find before the new requirements for WR outlets. Whack the end off an extension cord you wire this with, and use the receptacle as one more outlet.
My strip is fed by a 30' run of 12 AWG, the other outlets on the circuit are unused, not by the design but chance. imo dedicated circuits really don't do much since any load disturbance is reflected on the bus which the circuit draws off. My power quality is 'good' because I'm the only home served by a 25 kVA xfmr which isolates me from the grid. My ground is low ~ 2 Ohm. Almost all crud on the grid is injected/created by the loads, not the utility. If you share a xfmr your neighbor influence your PQ. In addition you add crud with nonlinear loads, SMPS, LED's, even LPS's. Having said that imo PQ has infinitesimal, if any, impact on what emanates from the speakers. And any influence imo is not audible based on the magnitude and how the AC is processed before utilized.
i got an improvement going from a power strip with lighted power switch to an un-switched one. Seems like those glow lamps add some noise.
The whole power supply thing is a headache that I have just decided to ignore. I have 7 things to plug in including the sub. I know a better rack would help but it is just very difficult to keep all of the power and audio cables separated (I have tried my best). It is all plugged into a bog standard 6 gang extension. The coax for the sub for example is run in wall trunking with the power strip!! My albeit untrained ears are not noticing anything untoward other than some minor pre-amp hiss for the turntable. I’d be open to buying a better power strip, maybe pick up a longer coax and run the sub to the other end of the room (but then it would be next to the Sonos sub!), I’ll also possibly buy a better rack one day too but other than that I am out of ideas so ignorance is bliss for now!
On behalf of my Ansuz Mainz8 X-TC (lower end of the company's line, but still not cheap), I say no thank you to any direct wall connection! Oh and please, it's not a power strip, it's a Power Distributor.
I was 'lucky' to have the direct comparison Old house : Dedicated circuit (easy to do and the sparky was in anyway), 4 double unswitched sockets on the wall to plug all the kit into New house : One switched socket All the kit plugged into two 4 way adaptors Sounded rubbish and took me a while and a lucky break having a sparky in to fix mains problems elsewhere. While he was in bank of switched sockets by the kit What a difference. Kicked myself repeatedly I thought the room acoustics were causing the problem
Haven't read this entire thread, so excuse me if this has been asked: Do any of you unplug your equipment when lightning is in the area? I have a Monster power conditioner/surge protector, and the fine print says unplug the unit when lightening is in the area ....... Problem is I'm not always 'in the area' with the lightning, plus unplugging the unit isn't as easy as it would sound. Many years ago, our house did get hit by lightning and it did multi-thousand dollars in damage to electronic equipment, this was before I put together my system, thank goodness.
Some switches can be overridden by a lightning hit, I know as we had multiple electronic devices fried during our hit, and at least three of them were switched off as I recall. Would be nice if you could just 'turn it off'.
