Farewell to OPPO Digital

Indeed! You can tell the difference because one spells the name backwards.

 

OPPO - CANADALAND


https://storyfied.com/interview/oppo-ice-cream/

 

So I'm running a Toshiba portable HDD into the front panel USB of my 205. It's a 1 TB 5V 1.0A unit. When playing back hires audio the 205 constantly freezes up and eventually locks up requiring a restart. Is this common with drives that require power from the OPPO? Do I just need to get a drive with an external power supply? Or could this be an issue with my unit....

 

USB spec, I believe, is 500mA aka 0.5A. While many machines can handle more power-hungry devices, your 1.0A drive would appear to be out of spec. There are USB Y-cables where one connector is regular USB and the other is power only (no data), that can get around this problem by allowing the drive to pull power from two ports simultaneously. But I guess you'd have to plug the drive into the rear of the Oppo since it has only one port on the front.

Another, albeit more expensive, option would be to get a 1TB USB stick or 1TB SSD drive - either one would almost certainly draw less power since there's no drive motor or stepper head like in a conventional HDD.

 

How many times, both Oppo Digital and the phone operation are subsidiaries of BBK electronics. Therefore they are part of the same organisation. How independent decisions are from the BBK management I can't say other than day to day running. I am sure Oppo Digital didn't close manufacturing down themselves but a decision made by BBK. If they are continuing as support only I would think it's due to cash provided by the parent company.

 

C'mon man! Can we just let this whole BBK/Oppo debate go! How many times is right in that how many times do we have to endure this debate !

 

Yes, that may use too much juice for the Oppo to handle on a regular basis.

 

Exactly! What I wrote is from an informed perspective. I’m not writing anything else.

 

Re BDP-95; could only get SPDIF output bit accurate when HDMI audio output switched off. How, why and by how much, don't know/can't recall, but not a big issue, just kept off and good to go. Maybe somehow prevents some frustration hair removal. Small workaround aside, brilliant products and great value - hopefully everyone involved is doing well and moving onto bigger and better things, thank you.

 

Nothing unusual there. GE have done this for decades. You'll find the same logo on the side of an aircraft engine as you do on another one of the group's activities, healthcare, energy, research, etc.

 

I've had similar issues with thumb drives, where it would lock up after about 5 mins of high res audio. I tried the rear USB 3.0 and had the same lock up with 24-96. Playing 16-44 is ok so far. I take that back, 8 mins and a lock up. Will see about getting a cable for a separate power supply for this or just another drive. Hate to have to transfer about 700gb tho...

 

My nearly decade-old Oppo BDP-83SE recently stopped loading blu-rays and began to only recognize the Redbook layer on hybrid-SACDs. This had happened a little over five years ago, too. At that time, I purchased a new laser assembly for the player, installed it, and shared the experience on the forum.

I’ve once again replaced the laser in the ’83 and took the opportunity to update the instructions I wrote years ago and add pictures.

Purchase a new laser assembly for the unit. You are looking for a KES-410A. You may also find a complete transport mechanism – these are KEM-410ACA or KEM-410ADA (and perhaps other part numbers, too). I bought a new KES-410A for $7.90 shipped on eBay and it appears to be identical to the original supplied with the unit. If you look for listings that specifically say BDP-83, you'll end up paying an extra $30 to $40 dollars for the same part.


Have a new CR-2032 battery on hand – there’s one in the ’83 and you might as well replace it while you have the player open.

If you have an anti-static strap, wear it while doing this if it makes you feel better. I just shot myself with my Zerostat and went for it.

Be aware that I made this up on the fly. Your results may vary from mine and following these instructions may result in complete destruction of your equipment (and your audio gear, too), blindness, electrocution, and the untimely demise of any small pets nearby. Proceed with caution. Consider having a small cup on hand to keep the collection of screws you'll be removing from running away or being ingested by small pets.

Completely unplug the unit (remove the power cord and all other cables) and remove the cover. There are two large, flat screws on either side and five smaller screws across the back. Lift the cover from the back (you may have to pull the bottom corners out a bit to free them from the chassis) until almost perpendicular to the unit and then lift straight up to disengage the tabs in the front.





Continued below.

 

Plug the unit's power cable back in and eject the tray. Be sure to once again unplug the unit but leave the tray open. It's easier to open the case with the tray closed and there's less risk of damaging the tray.


Before you open the transport, take this opportunity to do a bit of house cleaning and remove accumulated dust and debris in the unit. The blades of the fan at the back of my ’83 were filthy. I used a Giotto Rocket bulb to blast crud from the fan and the rest of the player.

Remove the two small silver screws on the top of the disc mechanism and carefully peal the two pieces of tape toward the back of the unit away from the top of the cover. You'll reuse this tape.


Use your fingernail or a small screwdriver to depress the four black plastic tabs that hold the cover on and gently lift the cover off.


Verify the laser you bought appears to be the same as the one in your player. The numbers on the boards on my replacement were the same as those on the original laser.

Push the sled as far forward as it will go.


Gently lift the dark-grey clip that holds the sled's ribbon cable up to release the cable.

Continued below.

 

Find the spring clip on the right rear side of the disc mechanism that holds the right rail in place. This is the rail next to the worm gear.

Be sure the sled is a far forward as possible and carefully pry the spring clip up only far enough to release the rail. Moving the sled forward allows the rail to move to one side easily.


Pull the rail towards the back of the unit to slide it out of the sled and the right front retainer.



Remove the sled by disengaging the left rail guide from the left rail.


Continued below.

 

Remove the white plastic clip on the right side of the sled that connects to the worm gear. It is secured with a tiny, easy-to-lose screw.



Install the clip you just removed on your new laser sled. Try to avoid touching the laser lenses.

Remove any dust and debris from the rails and worm gear.

Slide the right rail through the rails guides on the right side of the sled.


Slip the new sled's left rail guides over the left rail (the one opposite to the worm gear) and rest the white plastic worm gear connector on the worm gear.


Insert the end of the rail into the front retainer. You'll need to gently lift the front retainer's spring clip up to do this.


Continued below.

 

Make sure sled is all the way forward. You'll have to maneuver the rail over the top of a small screw to get it all the way to the metal stop-tab.


Gently pry the right rear spring clip rail retainer up and snap the right rail into place.

Insert the ribbon cable into the slot on the sled as far as possible and close the retaining clip. Make sure the cable appears to be straight.


Use a micro-fiber cloth to gently remove any debris from the lens.


Snap the disc mechanism cover back into place.

At this point, you can test the player to make sure it works before replacing the disc mechanism screws and the tape.


Behind and slightly under the transport on main board is a battery holder containing a single CR-2032 lithium battery. Detach the two cables directly behind the battery holder to get easier access by gently pulling up on the plugs. Mine did not have any clips and pulled up freely.

Continued below.

 

Use a small, flat-bladed tool to release the retaining clip at the back of the holder and then slip the blade under the battery to lift it up. Remove the battery and replace it with a fresh battery, +-side up. The battery likely powers non-volatile on-board memory. The battery I removed was stone-dead, though the player seemed to work okay and remember my settings, so I could be completely wrong about its purpose.



Re-attach the two cables you removed to access the battery.

Replace the unit's external cover.

My player now immediately sees the SACD layer on hybrid discs when I load them and plays BDs without complaint. Good luck with yours. Long live the BDP-83SE!

 

Good deal!

 

Thanks Reese, for such detail on this task.

 

Big cheer for Reese - what a great set of posts. I've replaced the laser in a Sony XA777ES and posted here, with links to photos; but nothing in your class. Kudos.

 

Well all worked fine putting a HDD with a powered dock (Thermaltake Blacx) on the rear USB. Playback with no freezing. So it must not have enough juice to power that external drive. Will try the powered hub...

 

Powered hub (Amazon Basics) did not work with the Toshiba drive. Played for about 10 minutes then locked up. Happened with hi res audio and a video. Anyone suggest an external portable HDD that works with the 205?

 

I have used several 2.5” HDD and SDD in a variety of enclosures from Anker, etc. All powered from the 205.

 

So the enclosure is not separately powered with a wall wart? I'm hoping to have something with a small footprint similar to the My Passport portable drives. The Thermaltake and large bare drive (which worked after a bit of testing) has to sit on the top of the shelving, and while behind the TV is not ideally located.

 

I have one of these attached to my 205 and it operates without issues: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149229