How do you lock the Technics SL-1210GR Azimuth?

So here's something interesting. I recently picked up a bubble level and found that the Azimuth of my SL-1210GR was slightly off. I couldn't find how to adjust it in the manual:

https://av.jpn.support.panasonic.co...ng-instructions/SL-1200GR_TQBM0053_EB_eng.pdf

I found that I could adjust it by applying a small amount of rotational pressure on the headshell when attached. Is it possible to lock it once it is set correctly? I notice it goes out over time and I have to readjust.

 

As far as I know, once you attach it with a moderate pressure in the right position it stays like that. Just be gentle when moving the tonearm.

 

That how I do it. Get the collar tight, and adjust. It stays put, just check it every once in a while.

 

You probably shouldn't try to rotate it after the collar is tight, that will put stress on the tonearm bearings. Some manufacturers like Linn even want you to remove the tonearm to install the cartridge to avoid stressing the bearings when the screws are tightened. Needless to say, you shouldn't crank down hard on the headshell connector when installing it either

 

How do you adjust it beforehand?

 

The problem is even being gentle it eventually goes out. I assume it happens when gliding the tonearm back over time. Micro movements that eventually add up. I usually move the tonearm back with a finger under the headshell handle. Maybe gravity slightly rotates it over time.

I should just use a finger where the tone arm bends to glide it back. That way gravity isn't repeatedly applied to only one side of the headshell.

 

Well, it was just a caution, it's your table. Technically, they don't come with azimuth adjustment, it's not even mentioned in the manual, but people obviously do use your method. Or they loosen the lock and move it one way or the other based on the azimuth measurement, and then retighten, I guess there is enough slop to get a degree or two of adjustment. Or some use the locking screw on the bottom of headshell to adjust azimuth. Or buy a headshell with azimuth adjustment.

But I don't know why it is changing after you tighten down the collar, I don't think that should happen. You are using the stock headshell and gasket? Or maybe it does happen and most people just don't notice.

 

I just hold the tone arm.
It actually moves pretty easy even when tight.

 

Get headshell with azimuth adjustment like AT-LH13H - Universal Headshell | Audio-Technica
There are other from Ortofon. Sumiko also sold one, but stopped making them.

 

I didn't realize you could do this. I just assumed it locked into whatever position it locks into when tightening. I will have to give this a try. Thanks!

I hope I'm not messing anything up by doing this. I do use the stock headshell. I never knew the azimuth was off until I got the bubble level. I got this one from Sleevecity: https://cdn3.volusion.com/aapps.nykew/v/vspfiles/photos/RC-107-2T.jpg?v-cache=1406829375

The bubble should sit center in the outlined ring. Over time it just starts to site off center. I check it every month or so and adjust as needed. It never goes way off and the tonearm feels stiff. You wouldn't know you even moving it if not for the level.

 

But if it's happening after locking into place I'm not sure this will solve the problem. I'm pretty sure it's the SL-1210GR's tone arm that is twisting over use.

 

I loosen the headshell lock, put it in the correct position with the bubble on top then it tighten it with moderate pressure. It seems to stay that way. I just checked mine with a bubble, it's centered and the last time I moved it was over five months ago when I changed the stylus.

 

So do you all think it's the tonearm twisting or the headshell?

 

Thanks. I'll give it a go. Never would have guessed it worked this way.

Update: and it works. Interesting. I just assumed it locked into place one way only.

So, moving forward I think I'll just slide the tonearm over with a finger gliding it by the bend. Seems the best way to keep the cart from moving over time.

 

Do not attempt to twist the tonearm, just the headshell while it's loosen. Once you tighten it, don't try to twist it. If you need to, loosen the headshell again.

The tonearm should not twist by itself nor by normal use.

 

That's the problem. I can't seem to lock it in place. Either the tonearm or the headshell moves over time after locking it tight. It's one or the other.

 

You are doing it wrong and you risk to damage the bearings of your tonearm with what you are doing.
In order to adjust azimuth on a Technics you need to have a headshell with an adjustment screw underneath.
There is no other way.
I believe that the headshell that comes with the Technics has the adjustment screw, if not, buy a new headshell that has that option.

 

My 1500c has this, but it does not really work for very small adjustments. There is a detente on the collar which the tip of the set screw finds when tightening it back down.

 

That screw is not for adjustment on a Technics, it is a set screw in a dimple. It is to secure the head shell.
Holding the tonearm and lightly adjusting the head shell will not destroy it.

 

I just checked. It has one and it's as tight as can be so that's not it.

 

Make sure that your turntable is perfectly level before using your bubble level to adjust azimuth. Otherwise your bubble level will be giving you inaccurate results.

I prefer using those acrylic VTA/Azimuth blocks for these adjustments. They are much less hassle to use.

 

One thing I prefer is a headshell with a top and bottom locking pin. Usually these have less play when inserted into the tonearm collet.

 

Do you feel any play in tonearm while manually twisting it? There should be none.

 

None, but I can see the bubble adjust accordingly.

 

Nothing beats the level imo. I have a block and all looked good, but the only way to be sure is to see that bubble centered on top. It also helps with checking the turntable. I used to use a flat level but the circular one is easier.

One interesting side note: I have a Kabusa Ortofon ProS40 and a Nagaoka MP-200. I always thought the ProS40 sounded better - more detailed and open while the MP-200 sounded warmer. When I got the bubble level I noticed the MP-200 wasn't set up perfectly. After I adjusted it, I couldn't believe the difference. It opened right up and sounds just as good as the ProS40. That said, I can't use the level on the ProS40 as there is no where for it to sit. I assume it's the same height as the MP-200 as the tonearm does look level with it when checking with the block. I reached out to Kabusa to see if they knew the height but they didn't.

One other interesting note: the thickness of the vinyl makes a difference - there is a difference between older 120g vinyl and 180g vinyl, so if you level it to one it's slightly off for the other. The bubble still sits within the top printed circle but it is only perfectly centered (bullseye) for one. I don't adjust the tonearm height between vinyl weight as that is just too anal, but it's there. So, if you want it to be absolutely perfect you'd want to check before playing. Not for me though... Why I want to lock it into place. I don't want to have to check. I'd prefer to set it up once and forget about it. So I"m going to try to avoid touching the headshell moving forward when cueing and bringing the tonearm back.