How hard would it be to replace these capacitors?

Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by jon9091, Oct 15, 2019.

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  1. jon9091

    jon9091 Master Of Reality Thread Starter

    Location:
    Midwest
    First, does anyone recognize these?

    And second, how difficult would it be to replace one or both of them?


    [​IMG]


    thanks!
     
  2. Malinky

    Malinky Almost a Gentleman.

    Location:
    U.K.
    When you say "How hard would it be", do you mean in finding replacement parts, or in actually physically resoldering in new components?
     
  3. jon9091

    jon9091 Master Of Reality Thread Starter

    Location:
    Midwest
    Both actually.
     
  4. Thorensman

    Thorensman Forum Resident

    A few minutes work.
    Board obviously needs removing from present location
     
  5. R. Totale

    R. Totale The Voice of Reason

    If it's a multi-layer board it could be trickier than you imagine. If it's just double-sided it's not too tough with solder wick and patience.
     
    DrZhivago likes this.
  6. Why do you want to change them?
     
  7. jon9091

    jon9091 Master Of Reality Thread Starter

    Location:
    Midwest
    I believe at least one of them is defective. Turn on the power switch to my deck...it does nothing, unless I start it by hand. Research tells me it’s the capacitor to the motor.
     
  8. patient_ot

    patient_ot Senior Member

    Location:
    USA
    Might want to check the service manual before doing anything.
     
  9. You may know this, but electrolytic capacitors can store a lot of electrical energy. They should be discharged before being touched. So be careful.
     
  10. Gibsonian

    Gibsonian Forum Resident

    Location:
    Iowa, USA
    If you have easy access to the other side of the board then would be pretty easy.
     
  11. regore beltomes

    regore beltomes Forum Resident

    Location:
    Helenville, WI
    These are surface mount devices. Gaining access to the other side of the PC board wont help.
     
    DrZhivago, ek1psu, StimpyWan and 5 others like this.
  12. patient_ot

    patient_ot Senior Member

    Location:
    USA
    I think you're right. Probably a job for a Louis Rossman type guy rather than an old school tech or DIYer.
     
  13. timind

    timind phorum rezident

    Replacement looks straightforward. The little shiny rectangle of solder on the side of the cap is the contact point. I would heat one side and lift it off. Repeat for opposite side then remove the solder on the spots.

    Those look pretty small so not much of a charge there.

    If you have a schematic, you can easily determine their value. If not, you got some research ahead to figure the cap value. I could guess, but...


    edit: and don't forget polarity matters when you install new caps.
     
    DrZhivago and jon9091 like this.
  14. regore beltomes

    regore beltomes Forum Resident

    Location:
    Helenville, WI
    SMDs are glued in place before they're wave soldered. Learn the proper technique before attempting replacement. 22uf @ 63v ?
     
    DrZhivago, 33na3rd and patient_ot like this.
  15. BrilliantBob

    BrilliantBob Select, process, CTRL+c, CTRL+z, ALT+v

    Location:
    Romania
    Looks like old Nichicon stuff... You need a professional advice for nowadays equivalent replacement.
     
  16. jon9091

    jon9091 Master Of Reality Thread Starter

    Location:
    Midwest
    This is getting more complicated and confusing. Supposedly this board is a mini SDS board (from a VPI Classic 1 late 2016) and I shouldn’t have to change anything at all. All I should have to to is replace the capacitor on the motor wiring. Problem is...there isn’t one. The wires from the motor go directly into this board. VPI is now emailing me back, so that’s where I’m getting this info.
     
  17. Puma Cat

    Puma Cat Forum Resident

    Location:
    East Bay, CA
    My recommendation? Send it back to VPI for repair.
     
  18. timind

    timind phorum rezident

    Took the guy 30 seconds to remove the cap.

     
  19. patient_ot

    patient_ot Senior Member

    Location:
    USA
    Question : why on earth is there any need to mess with a component like that from a supposed high end TT that is 3 years old? Something stinks here.
     
    VinylSoul and timind like this.
  20. TarnishedEars

    TarnishedEars Forum Resident

    Location:
    The Seattle area
    This is probably not VPI's fault. There have supposedly been hundreds of millions of defective capacitors sold over the past 20 years. I recently received a letter informing me about a class actions lawsuit which is aimed at more than one supposedly "premium" Japanese capacitor manufacturer regarding exactly this issue.
     
    showtaper and patient_ot like this.
  21. jon9091

    jon9091 Master Of Reality Thread Starter

    Location:
    Midwest
    I had actually talked to VPI about it a while ago, and then the guy I was talking to quit the company. As I had purchased the deck from SoundStageDirect, I wasn’t going to get any help from them obviously...and the local dealer that VPI referred me to sounded absolutely clueless...literally said he’d never worked on one before. So, after reading this....

    vpiforum.com • View topic - Classic 1 rotation problem question

    ...I thought I might be able to change it on my own. But once I got inside, it wasn’t what I was expecting to see. So, I had to start over again with a new contact at VPI. He’s trying to send me a capacitor, but there isn’t one attached to the motor. It’s very confusing.
     
    patient_ot likes this.
  22. patient_ot

    patient_ot Senior Member

    Location:
    USA

    Sounds extremely frustrating. I hope you get it sorted out.
     
    jon9091 likes this.
  23. harby

    harby Forum Resident

    Location:
    Portland, OR, USA
    Standard 22uF 63V SMT capacitor. You'll need to look at the footprint size to obtain one with similar dimensions. Panasonic 105C 5000hr: EEE-HD1J220P

    Sometimes the leads of SMT caps will be too close to solder, like the above, or hard to desolder because the negative lead is on a large ground plane with lots of metal. Then you just twist the can of the cap back and forth until the leads break from the rotation, and clean up with solder wick, then alcohol. Lightly tin the contact pads, then you just need to touch the pads for a second on each side with a fine-point iron while holding the new component in place.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019
    timind, jon9091 and patient_ot like this.
  24. TarnishedEars

    TarnishedEars Forum Resident

    Location:
    The Seattle area
    FYI - If those are 22 uF caps (or 220 uF caps), then those ARE NOT your motor phase splitting caps! If this issue is supposed to be caused by a failed phase-splitting cap (as the post referenced by the OP seems to imply), then these caps are not the issue. Phase splitting caps should be a lot closer to 0.5 uF than to 22 uF.
     
    timind and jon9091 like this.
  25. harby

    harby Forum Resident

    Location:
    Portland, OR, USA
    This is a classic 1 "SE". The motor is a 5 watt Hurst AB-SP 3005-003 synchronous 24V 600rpm AC motor. The board you are looking at is the power supply amp which converts the wall-wart power. The capacitor value shown below, between the red and black leads, is 10uF 100VDC; the 22uF might be in series to achieve that but probably not, given the direction they face.

    [​IMG]

    See it at 5:30
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019
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