Looking to find (or make) a compact passive rca audio switcher box

I have started to run out of inputs on my vintage yamaha amp. I'm sure many remember this A/V switch boxes from back in the day that basically turned one rca a/v input into multiples. Anyways I test various pieces of equipment frequently and its always a pain in the ass to get everything back when I'm done. Problem is, a lot of those switcher boxes are quite ugly and the ones that just do R+L rca seem less common than the ones with the video rca. Anyhow, I just want something passive (no circuitry of any kind) which I assume it's possible as they are physical analog connections. I am trying to find something that fits the mid to late 70's aesthetic (veneer like wood cabinets and metal face plates). I'm not an electronics expert in any way but I do know some of the essentials. Would it be the best bet to build one of these myself? I figure you'd need an enclosure and a bunch of rca mounting components and some kind of switch. I figure someone around here must have created something like this (I do recall seeing someone create a stereo-mono switch from scratch, which may be similar enough to adapt). I also thought of looking for a vintage selector from that time period instead, but most of them have an insane amount of inputs and an insane price to go along with it. I feel the only pre made option might be audiophile catered and quite expensive. I'd like to keep costs as low as possible and end up with at least 2-3 inputs to select between. I would appreciate any insight on this, thanks.

 

The big A shows a selection of video game switch boxes and some could fit the look you want. I can't recommend any, or the seller, but it's a list to consider.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_n_1?fst=asff,p90x:1&rh=n:172546,k:video+game+switch&keywords=video+game+switch&

 

Not sure if this is what you"re after. Mapletree Audio Line Router, can be customised to your requirements. I've been using one for about 12 years now .
My router has two inputs and 4 outputs .
Just scroll down the page. Dr Peppard who is Mapletree is a great person to deal with.
Welcome to Mapletree Audio Design

 

also located in canada too... thanks for this I will certainly check it out. the aesthetic isnt 100% what I wanted but it definitely beats those gaudy rca/radioshack a/v boxes.

 

Here are two guides (below), there isn't much to making these. Use quality audiophile-grade switches, RCA sockets and wire.

You can buy a 1U rack from electronics stores. I used old (professional) router cases which were the same width as audio components - one had plain front so resprayed with black, the other I made I created a new fasia out of angled aluminum.

I used a chickenhead knob on the front for that retro feel, and so the selection can be easily identified by the position of the switch eliminating the need for writing on the front. I also bought a knob extender and a 1/4" aluminum rod from the hardware store so the switch is as close as possible to the rca sockets, minimising the signal path. I put a couple of small weights in the case so it wouldn't slide around when changing cables.

If you test lots of equipment you might want to put a set of l+r rca sockets on the front panel for one switch position. If you use my suggestion to keep the switch unit close to the back rca's the front rca's will have a longer wire run, but it should be ok for equipment temporarily plugged into the unit.

Know of a GREAT sounding analog switch box? RCA or XLR?
DIY Audio Electronics from Zynsonix.com: Custom RCA Switch Box for Audio

 

The Decware Zen Switchbox model ZSB

This one can also be configured with a mono switch

 

This is exactly the kind of thing i was thinking of. is it realy just as simple as a selector switch, rca jacks, wire and a housing of some sort?

both of the links mention a rotary switch by Elma which I was able to find on ebay and a not so decent price. I did see the one linked on the thread here but still quite expensive.
Elma Controls 1-Deck 2 poles/deck- 2 to 6 positions/pole

I figure these must just be very high quality switches which justifies the cost. Would it really be worth the higher cost compared to the rotary switches available on ebay from china/hong kong? I feel like I am entering "coat hanger speaker wire" territory.
Anyhow, when it comes to switches I assume poles just mean the amount of contacts for each selection? So for example I would need at least 2 poles, and as many positions as I would need? I'm also a little confused on the wiring. does a 4 position switch offer 4 switchable inputs or just 3? Or does the input connect separately? Other than this it's quite straightforward, and should be easy enough to manage. Anyhow it sucks that radio shack ain't a thing up here anymore.. makes getting these kinda electronic components a pain.

 

The Elma switch is high quality because it has gold contacts on the switch. Grayhill have a similar quality. This is the quality used on the highest-level audiophile gear (as far as my research can tell). Yes, a cheap switch from China or your local electronics store will work well, and you may not notice any difference, but that depends on how high the quality of your stereo is and how resolving your ears are (and also the quality of the interconnects you use, and the rca sockets and internal wireing on the switchbox). I used to use a cheap+masty switch, and used it for my lower-quality components (cassette, tuner, tv) so the quality didn't matter that much.

"Poles" = the number of channels. 2-pole = stereo = L+R channels.
- A 2-pole 6-position switch will make a stereo switchbox with 6 inputs and one output.
- A 2-pole 4-position switch will make a stereo switchbox with 4 inputs and one output.

Don't be afraid, it's not rocket science.
- The l+r +ve contacts from the sockets get connected to the switch.
- The -ve contacts on the sockets get connected together.

For the back panel I printed labels from a word processor, white text on black background. I glued them using pva glue, with glue also on the front of the paper to act as a laminate. I even coloured the area around the output socket dark blue so it would be easy to identify in the dark light at the back of my rack.

 

Alright seems simple enough. Just want to make sure im doing this right before I spend any money on this. Where I am still a little confused is when it comes to the grounding.. Do i need to use 4 poles for that? I always seem to have issues with that so I want to be 100% sure i'm doing this right.

Mouser electronics seems to have quite the selection and does ship to canada. I think they have a search filter for gold plated contacts which is helpful. In addition to the grounding, do I have to worry about the "decks"? i'm still having a hard time understanding those. I am fairly certain that my vintage yamaha amp does have a few decks in the selectors, but other than isolating the circuitry what is the point?

thanks for your help thus far. other than this I just need to source rca jacks and some kind of casing for the whole thing to go in.

edit:

Would this rotary switch work?
56S30-01-2-04N Grayhill | Mouser

Also, do I have to really worry about the voltage and current limits? I am not sure what the main application of these switches are.

 

A few questions in your post, I will try to answer. I will also indicte that I'm not an electronics expert, have learned by researching on the internet and getting advice, and dabbling myself. More experienced readers are welcome to clarify my writing.

No, the number of "poles" can be thought of as the number of channels the switch manages. For stereo you need two poles (for the l+r channels).

Only the positive signal from the interconnect goes through the switch. The negative (ground) of your rca sockets are just connected together. This is also connected to your metal case.

You can think of "decks" similar to poles. An extra deck is like having an extra switch mounted onto your switch, which provides additional channels for your switch.
A 1-deck 2-pole switch - manages two channels of audio (stereo).
A 2-deck 2-pole switch OR a 1-deck 4-pole switch - manages four channels of audio (quadraphonic).

Buy a "single-deck, 2-pole" switch and you will be OK for your switchbox. The number of positions = the number of inputs you can use (see my previous post).

Neutrik rca sockets are good quality and affordable, Cardas, WBT, etc are all excellent quality but are expensive.

BTW, be careful with your terminology as it's easy to use the wrong term and get the wrong items. A "jack" is the term for a plug, and you need sockets for this project!

Another option for a case - depending on your metalwork skills - would be to get an old tuner or DVD player (you can get these for next to $ nothing), strip the innards and screw a sheet of painted aluminuim plate to the front for a nice finish.

This switch is "1 deck, 2 pole/deck, 4 position/pole, non-shorting".
- It is 2-pole - so will manage the l+r audop channels.
- It is 4-position - so it will give you four inputs (personally I would get the 6-position to get two extra inputs. The cost of the switch and extra rca sockets would be minimal, and give you options for the future. If you don't use the extra inputs, no harm is being done).
- It is "non-shorting", which is also appropriate for a switchbox (don't get a "shorting" switch).

So this Grayhill switch appears to be quite appropriate for your application. The spec's indicate gold-plated contacts, which suggest good quality (although I'm not very familiar with the Grayhill range).

Switches have voltage/current ratings as they might be used as power switches in some applications, and using an under-rated switch can have disastrous consequences.

You can relax, as audio signals make minimal demands in this regard and any switch will be OK and safe. They are not being used for power/current in a switchbox.

 

I've had this Niles audio switch for years and love it:

https://www.amazon.com/Niles-Audio-AXP-1/dp/B00006I5J0

Good luck finding one.

 

Rek-O-Kut make exactly what you are looking for.

Rek-O-Kut - Low Noise Stereo Phono/Aux Switch

 

Great informative answer. thank you for the help. I think i will go with the 6 position switch for the reasons you mentioned.. can't hurt and then I'll never ever possibly need another one. Also totally forgot I need wire. I assume a thin gauge copper wire should do fine? Since there is home depot and such nearby I'll leave the wiring to last, and first order the stuff I'll need online.

 

Allied Electronics, they have everything.

 

Internal wire performs the same function as interconnects, so quality does matter. Using cheap+nasty wire will be OK for a general non-audio electronics project, but it will put a weak link in a hifi audio chain. I would be buying a length of wire suitable for good quality interconnects - you will only need a couple of feet in length. There are lots of options, eg. Cardas; I used Kimber for my box because I had some spare.

 

Will keep this all in mind. Which wire gauge would be best to use? I assume not too thick to make things easier to work with. Everything ordered now except the enclosure... I'm thinking its best to get all the parts and visualize how big it will be using a ruler and find an appropriate electronics box. I hope to find anodized aluminum to match my amp but I doubt that I will be able to find that.

 

I recently made an RCA switch box from scratch using the casework & sockets from eBay + an Elma 2 pole 6 way switch (note grounding 'busbar' to case arrangement which was recommended to me by a hifi manufacturer - pic taken prior to soldering). It works perfectly.

 

Any old receiver/integrated amp will do the job. Doesn't even have to work. You don't need to plug it in. The switching is all mechanical. You might need some Deoxit for the selector switch. Good luck.

 

I'm not an expert in this area. I would just buy wire designed for good quality interconnect, and not use the sheilding. Drewan's pic above clearly shows how to wire the -ve(ground) of the rca's, this pic was taken prior to soldering.

Please post photos of your completed project!

 

Nice work on the grounding arrangement. Looks very clean.

 

Looks good. If I get an end result similar to this then i'd be quite happy. Trying to find as small of an enclosure as possible, but not too small to the point that soldering is gonna be a pain. To clarify, the grounding wire arrangement is on the inside of the housing? It appears that way in the photos but not sure.

Also, another thing I almost forgot about was the actual switch knob itself. Did you find that on ebay? I am not sure what the tip of my switch shaft looks like but hoping I can get something from an vintage amp/receiver online to fit with the look.

definitely will do this. only last thing to worry about is housing/wiring and of course make sure I solder it all right.

 

this would be another idea.. didn't mention it in the original post but I definitely want something as compact as possible. The receiver idea is good if you have the room though for sure. Then matching the visuals won't be too difficult.
Anyways, I decided to dabble a bit and go the D.I.Y way. seems easy enough.

 

This would be my choice as well.

 

I have the same one. It’s excellent. I haven’t seen anything like it in years

 

Luxman makes one in Japan, I need one myself for a Fisher 800 C. Here’s an Amazon listing, but there are many to be found on Ebay as well from Japanese Sellers for around the same price:

https://www.amazon.com/LUXMAN-AS4III-selector-laksman-AS-4III/dp/B000A7G7VY