Yea, that was the joke, but maybe too subtle for the hardware forum. I thought the hehe and the smiley would be a tip, but maybe my delivery was just a bit off
Yes I believe it was intended for coax. Not sure about directional shielding (mine didn’t have any instruction or indication). For me it offered a little more, very slightly different tonality and clarity I preferred. It was close! Never had problems with noise or interference with this cable either. I’m running really high gain, too. My amp and raspberry pi streamer sits next to the turntable and preamp. No noise at all.
Hey Chris, do you think the Eminence connectors are good quality? Is the 2964 directional? Also confirming you use them from TT to phono pre. Thanks!
Hey! Yeah the connectors are just fine! They twist to lock, and seem to be of good quality. the 2964 cable I have is not directional. Or at least wasn’t indicated on the one I have. I have the KAB cable mod on my 1200mk2 so I can swap cables from the TT into the phono preamp. I recorded a few samples when swapping cables and preferred the 2964 by just a slight margin!
Like others, I went with 2497 for my RCA interconnects. Constructed by Redco I believe, using Canare RCAs.
Ok cool. Your profile says 2497 so confirming you use the 2964. I think I'll try a couple pairs. Thanks!
Not to be a broken record, I've posted this a few times before about my cable choice.... but I run four TT's / phono pre's, and all separates, so lot's of cables required. I have the luxury of having full sets of Mogami 2497, Belden 1505F's and Belden / BJ LC-1, and have run them all, trying my best to decide which I liked best. (spoiler - they're all good / sufficient RCA analog cables, I think most level headed audiophiles would get on well with any of the three....) Bottom line is if there's a difference, it's down to subtleties - there's no "trouncing" going on, etc. Next, I can't guarantee that another person would agree with my choice. Finally, I could live with any one of the three - to me, these cables are at the sweet spot of cost, quality construction, capacitance, value that it starts getting into the "you could spend more..." category. Oh, you wanted to know what I liked best? I settled on the Mogami 2497. I convinced myself I like the overall feel, they seemed to deliver the best for my ears sent through my..... wait for it..... Mogami 3103 speaker cables. Don't ask me to defend it, or pick them out in a blind test though.... and let me live in peace thinking I convinced myself correctly.... but it is a cable choice, so you probably wouldn't change my mind anyway. Canares compression / crimp? The Canares F09 / F10's solder connectors are too narrow, as the 2497 is 8mm OD. Unless you took out the strain relief on the F10? I think that is possible, but not ideal....
I also use Mogami 3103 speaker cables. Mine were built by Take Five Audio in Canada and use BFA style banana plugs (z-plugs). I also had them build me XLR cables using Mogami 2534 and Neutrik XX connectors. I looked at my Redco order invoice and it looks like they used F10 connectors with the 2497. I forget if they removed the strain relief, as I haven't used the interconnects in a couple years after replacing my old integrated amp with gear that required the aforementioned XLR cables. Out of curiosity, I just went through the Redco custom cable page and it gives the Canare F10 and the Profi NF2CB/2 as the only available termination options with 2497 RCA interconnects.
Yep, just haven’t updated that. Recently tried the 2964 through this thread! It’s more affordable and sounds better for my application. It’s shielded. I think I deleted my test samples but can try to recover and share them. You can hear the diff for yourself
That's what I found with Redco, although they are one of the few you can buy 2497 by the foot, they don't sell any real good matches for the RCA connectors that will do well with 8mm OD. The Profi NF2 you mentioned - even to make it work, you have to buy the Neutrik CNF-9 https://www.onlinecomponents.com/ne...VAhx9Ch30IA89EAAYAiAAEgJcJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds to accommodate cables up to 8mm. The F10's I'd avoid with the 2497, although a fine connector on other cables... I use the F09 on some of my 1505F's. That's why many who DIY the 2497 use the Amphenols, or other options. Heck, Part Express sells a decent 8mm OD connector that works for a decent price too. I've done both with the 2497 (build and buy pre-made)- but ended up just buying a full set of 2497's with Eminence connectors from "Worlds Best Cables" on Amazon. Their price to value is not bad, still a lot more than DIY, but until I get some time and the soldering iron back out, I need to complete my 2497 set.... then I figure I could sell the WBC version for probably close to what I paid.
Only snake-oil cables are directional. You can wire end connectors in a directional way, but this is a different field altogether
Through references in this forum, I’ve been using Mogami 2549 with Neutrik XLR terminations as ICs but extended this configuration to connect preamp to active ATCs which necessitated a longer cable run than the standard 1 meter runs of 2549 in IC form. I used 2.5 meter lengths of 2549 as ersatz “ speaker cable” runs to the ATC. I decided to try something exotic and some might call snake oil cable. But I was willing to try knowing that as long as using different cable did no harm over what I was already using, why not? The exotic cable was Furutech FA-Alpha S22, a bulk cable that I’d DIY to Neutrik XLR plugs. If there was gonna be a difference in sound, a cable run which is the last stop into ATCs it should be apparent. Mogami 2549 is ~$0.95/foot; Furutech S22 is $76/meter, not exactly equal terms but this isn’t about value. If a cable changeover is in the background consideration of hearing a change for the better, if any: the Furutech cable length is 2 meter, the Mogami is 2.5 meter-close enough. The results were decidedly in favor to the Furutech. This cable clearly delivered with accuracy and definition what apparently my pre amp has been outputting all along. Everything across the spectrum was improved. I’m agnostic about cables but I have no issue with any of the specialty products invented by the audio industry to improve our sound, it is real product that may or may not work, no way to know unless you give it a go. The worst that could happen with this experiment was being conned for $300 worth of cable. Well, the stuff works. Nothing wrong with Mogami, but I wanted to know what else could be. We all take a bite of the apple knowing what might happen. This experiment was very successful, some of the cable guys already know this but what a difference.
For a great cable that’s able to allow current flow, I’ve experienced excellent results using W2549 as a balanced phono cable in a transimpedance phono system via a 5-pin DIN to RCA configuration. The shielding is lifted from all connectors with an additional chassis ground wire run adjacent to the L/R signal cables. In order to utilize the shielding for optional noise control, the RCA output plugs (Audiocrast/Star Line) feature access to the signal cable shielding via a “drain” wire exiting the rear of each RCA plug. These L/R drain wires are joined together in a 2nd spade lug (think XLR pin 1) for placement with the chassis ground if needed. Although they use different cable, I “borrowed” this idea from SME
I use a similar DIN to RCA setup with flying shield connection on the RCA ends at the SUT, but I'm wondering why you don't tie the shield to the ground pin on the DIN connector? Normally that would connect the shield to the tonearm structure. That's how mine is setup, so I don't need and extra ground wire for the tonearm, but I do have another ground wire from the platter bearing and power supply ground since the plinth is wood. Or do you just want to avoid any possible AC current on the shield?
This allows for the option - I prefer the signal unshielded if I can get away with it. I find the sound more open and larger with the shielding left out.
Well technically speaking, the cable is still shielded even if the shield is not connected anywhere, it's just likely not as effective as it would be tied to the chassis. But whatever works best, and sounds best, is usually best, as long as no other problems arise
I think you'll want to get some Mogami 3103, which is 2 conductor. If you bi-wire you can get 3104 which is 4 conductor.
Having cable fun! New Mogami all rigged up. 2964 with Eminence connectors for phono (noise free and sounding excellent). 2549 (Blue) with Amphenol connectors. 3103 speaker with Techflex/pants/bananas/3103 bulk jumpers.
Sweet. Are those DIY or pre-built? Note I have the Mogami 2497 with locking Eminence that WBC sold on Amazon. And a couple of 2497 DIY's, but I've donated those to my brother as he builds his system up over time.
Yeah, I mis-posted and was asking you... I thought the 2964 looked a lot like my WBC Eminence and why I asked. Thanks... I got my 3103 from Redco, around $3.50 a foot, I run bare wire though... also got my 2497's bulk from Redco, I still plan on circling back on 2497 build Round 2, this time with a better connector strategy! I run four TT's, three Phono pre's, plus other gear, so there are a fair number of cables required....
I might try a set of 3104 down the road so I can have a proper bi-wire set. I like having the jumpers match the main wire on 3103.