I'm going to have to look for some of those, they look like they were made for the table! Thanks for the the reply!
The Pioneer DJ website (6/7/2022) says the wow and flutter on this unit is "< 0.01 % (Measured by obtaining signal from built-in frequency generator of motor assembly.)" What does this mean? And is this spec different from years earlier when the claim was 0.1% and many comments were negative? https://www.pioneerdj.com/en-us/product/turntable/plx-1000/black/overview/
It means the w/f is measured using the rotary encoder that’s connected to the shaft inside the motor, instead of using a test record. Eliminates inaccuracies like warps and pressing defects that are common with w/f test records.
Still, the gap is a bit of mystery. Maybe a brushed face-plate is somehow permanently attached to that one-piece casting.
That's what it looks like to me. A brushed aluminum plate glued to a die cast chassis. But I've never had my hands on one.
I don’t know what posts, but I used to run a PLX-1000 some years ago and never had any w/f issues. I think you’re probably right.
Yes, I would guess that is probably the case, but still just a one piece assembly from what I've seen.
Posts 385, 386, 389, 393 for starters. Mikay was really dismissive of this table because of an earlier wow and flutter spec.
If memory serves, it was long ago established that the original number was just a printing error missing a digit. The table sounds every bit as good as the SL1200GR. I’ve owned both and done listening tests and frequency tests. The GR has better build and feel, but it doesn’t outperform it in any way sonically. Maybe at this point buy one or don’t? Use Amazon and return it if you don’t like it. If you want people to “sell” you on this table no matter how many objections you throw up, it might be difficult as I don’t think anybody here gets an override from Pioneer.
Even 0.1% is decent. Not great, but good enough for a midrange turntable. It complies with the NAB playback standards: https://www.richardhess.com/tape/history/NAB/NAB_Disc_Standard_1964_formatted_text_and_graphics.pdf Something that can’t be said for most belt drives at a similar pricepoint.
I'm just getting up to speed on this. That's good to know. That's good to know as well. Much appreciated from somebody who has actually had them side by side. I hope I don't sound like I'm throwing up objections. I'm just sifting through piles of contradictory internet posts and trying to form an opinion.
I think this table is built like a beast, I for one didn’t have luck getting one without extreme bearing play. I will say more power to you guys, everyone’s ears hear things differently. But owning both this table and a Technics GR, it was an obvious difference in sound and the PLX couldn’t compete in my eyes (ears). I will say when I first got it, I was blown away how great it looked and how heavy it was.
I didn’t try cause it was so bad. I had a AT that was off slightly and was successful in fixing it, but so much glue was applied from the factory it was a bitch to loosen the screw and didn’t look so good after. I almost gave up and it finally came loose but it was ugly after. I didn’t want to do that to the Pioneer so I decided to not try and just send it back. But man, I’ve had some tables that were loose over the years but I have no idea how the PLX left the factory like that. It’s was the worst bearing play I had ever seen. Really astonishing how bad it was from the factory.
Did you use a spanner bit, or did you "bubba" it with needle nose pliers or a chisel or something? https://www.amazon.com/VEGA-Spanner-Insert-Professional-125SP06A-5/dp/B07JLZ3B86?th=1
Which bearings are the issue? Just curious to what part of the table this is, sorry if that’s a newb question
lol, I wish I knew of that tool. Didn’t know about it till after. I used a very small flat head, but the glue they put on was overkill. I thinking would have come loose easy enough if not for all the glue. It was def over used.
A drop of acetone (fingernail polish remover) loosens the glue. KEEP IT OFF ANYTHING PLASTIC OR PAINTED! Then a spanner tip of the right size makes bearing adjustment a walk in the park.
Would a Technics 1200mk7/1500C arm fit the PLX? a) just the wand with the gimbal b) with the entire base
Could you post a picture with it upside down so we can see where the mounting screws go? Also, could you post the diameter of the base?
