Pro-Ject VC-S mkII repair

Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by Echoplex, Nov 10, 2019.

  1. Echoplex

    Echoplex Well-Known Member Thread Starter

    Good Evening Pro-Ject VC-S owners!

    Recently, I encountered a problem with my VC-S, so thought I'd share some helpful tips about how I went about repairing mine - just in case any of you experience the same thing.

    The problem occurring on my VC-S was the vacuum arm flange coming loose. I would place the vacuum arm into the cleaning position like normal, but I noticed the last few times that whenever I turned on the vacuum motor, the force of the suction was causing the vacuum arm to jolt forward every time, thus causing the arm flange to come loose over time. Only problem was, when I went to tighten the 2.5mm bolts back down, they wouldn't hold any tension.

    I immediately decided to take mine all apart and go about fixing it. I took tons of photos for reference, then went about removing the vacuum motor, mini-platter motor, jerry can and wiring connectors etc.


    Once I got that all out of the way, I could see right away that the fasteners used to secure the arm flange were of poor quality, and not really the right type. The fastening nuts were just spinning around inside the bore housing because they were not secured to the chassis at all. It's no wonder they wouldn't hold any tension. Also, the socket head bolts used were not the correct type either, and as you can see, are susceptible to rust since they're near a water source.

    I decided to use a slightly bigger bolt diameter, and chose to use stainless steel type as this quells any potential rust problems. Also, I went with metric t-nut fasteners - since they have spurs that dig into the wood, this helps secure themselves to the chassis. Also, they sit flush against the chassis undercarriage, and do not impede vacuum motor clearance. These really worked great for me in repairing my VC-S. Hopefully, they'll do the same for you!

    Tool List:
    • 2.5mm allen t
    • 3mm allen t
    • digital calipers
    • two) 10mm sockets; long and short; 1/4" drive
    • 6" socket extension; 1/4" drive
    • Ratchet Wrench; 1/4" drive
    • magnetic bit holding screwdriver; 1/4' drive bit for 1omm socket
    • phillips screwdrivers; medium/large
    • diagonal cutting pliers
    • round punch (15mm dia.)
    • ball peen hammer
    • cordless drill
    • 9/64 drill bit (w/hexed end)
    • 3) Pronged Metric Tee-Nut (M4 x .70P x 6mm x 15mm)
    • 3) Stainless Metric Socket Cap Screw (M4-0.70 x 20mm)
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
    Bob_in_OKC and ScottRiqui like this.
  2. vinylontubes

    vinylontubes Forum Resident

    Katy, TX
    Just don't ever use power tools with Stainless Fasteners. Too much heat and the threads liquefy, then they seize up. This is more or less a weld. After that not left to do but cut them off. I've used a lot of SS fasteners in factories. We did use power tools, but, there was a lot of testing to make sure we didn't spin the hardware too fast.

    I would also recommend use washers both lockwashers and standard. Spring washer washers work better if you haven't tightened them too tight. If you deflect the metal back to flat, the spring characteristic wanes over time.

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