Question about Grado Wooden Tonearm...

I am getting my grandfather's Thorens TD 124 MK 1 restored. Accompanying it is a grado Wooden tonearm. Can any owners of this tonearm please share knowledge they have from use/about it? I would love to learn more about it.

1. How do I adjust this arm to a particular cartridge?

2. I have a grado Green cart to use with this arm. Any suggestions on cartridges that work well with this table combo?

Thanks for any help!

 

Did you find this thread?
Just got a Grado wooden tonearm for my TD-124

 

I did, thank you for the reply.

 

Paging @action pact you're needed in the hardware forum...

 

There were two wooden arms produced by Grado; I only have experience with the Laboratory Series model.

 

Despite my best efforts to rehab it, I could never get that arm to behave properly. The VTF is designed to be set using that knurled knob on top of the pivot, which presses down on a coiled spring, but it just would not hold a consistent downforce.

 

Action pact, How do you know where to put the circular weight on the metal stick? Is that the antiskate? Thanks for your help. It's a cool arm and has sentimental value, so I hope I can make it work.

 

I found the owners manual online, which addresses most of my questions, but doesn't mention that particular weight.

 

There should be a metal weight in the rear of the tube, which you have to position so that the arm floats horizontal to the platter (neutral balance). If the weight is missing, a C battery will work!

 

I have the metal weight, was referring to the small black weight running parallel to the arm. Thank you for your help! I appreciate it!

 

Grado is in Brooklyn. Email them. I have four sets of Grado headphones. They were very nice to deal with when I needed some parts.

 

That's a lateral balance weight.

Grado is indeed a wonderful family-owned business, but that would be a stretch. This arm has been out of production since about 1962.

 

Yes, the last year it was made was 1963.

 

Action Pact, I received the arm back after having rewired it and would love your help, if you have any knowledge. I've tried to set this arm up but am really confused about lateral tracking force. When I measure on the outside vs inside of the record, there's a .20 difference. Do you know how to fix this? Otherwise I'm not sure what to do as there's no turntable repair/setup help in my area.


The owners manual says "To obtain uniform lateral traction pressure weigh the stylus pressure at the outside of the record and then at the inside of the record. Rotate the black rubber pad until the pressures are identical."

It looks to me the pad isn't rotatable.

 

You DID loosen the knurled base, right?

 

Can you please elaborate on how to do that? I am so confused setting this arm up. Do I have to take the TD 124 armboard off and loosen the screw at the bottom? Everything at the base is tight.

I really appreciate any help you can give me as I have no one else to ask in setting up this arm.

 

Keep in mind, I'm going from memory, it's been a few years...

Yeah, you might have to remove the armboard and loosen the screw in order to spin the knurled base, and then spin the pad. Don't make yourself crazy trying to get it 100% precise, rough it in as best as you can, and then tighten everything down.

 

Ok, that makes more sense. Thank you so much for the help.

 

After some trial and error, thanks to action pact, the lateral tracking pad now spins! Thanks @action pact

 

Terrific!

 

Action pact, any thoughts as to where to position the stylus on the white cartridge holder that screws into the overhang of the arm? The manufacturer said 48 mm from the back, but was wondering if you had a different opinion

 

I would go with Joe Grado's recommendation. IIRC, there is a raised line that represents where to position the tip of the diamond.

 

It appears I now need a lighter counterweight than the steel one that came with the arm.

does anyone have any recommendation on where to get one made, or tonearm headshell weights that would work with the arm?

 

Maybe an automotive machine shop?

 

That seems to be what I'll have to do, I can't think of any other option