Hello, I am tempted to try, rega spacers, I would like to know if someone have prove it, with this cartridge. Actually to my ears the sound is fine but I am intrigued. Thank you very much Nacho
You should get the this and the associated Finger Locknut: Michell - Rega RB 250/300/600 Threaded VTA Adjuster I added them to my P25. I had spacers before and they are a pain in the rear. I can adjust VTA easily now in a minute by turning the collar and nut, safely and securely. Allows you to really dial in VTA on pretty much any cartridge. I can't comment on the Hana as I haven't heard it, but this will help you get the most out of it if you do.
I second the recommendation for the collar and the nut. You need both the collar and the nut. But, it isn't a simple process to install it. The hole in the plinth is undersized for the collar. So, you have to figure out how to enlarge a hole without changing the axial location. I bought an adjustable blade reamer and enlarged the hole myself. The reamer I bought was 1-1/16" Min., 1-3/16" Max. I, little by little, opened up the hole until the collar fit snug. https://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Adjustable-Blade-Hand-Reamer-4LGT6?
Hello, thank you for the recommendations. I can make a try, but I am, afraid to drill the hole where the tonearm fits. I haven't got experience.
You need the reamer. It centers on the existing hole to maintain coaxial location then the fluted edges cut the hole to the larger diameter. Your other option is jigging up the plinth and precisely locating the hole and drilling with a forstner bit. If you're unfamiliar with drill bits, a forstner drill bit is basically a mill head. It's got points on the outer edge of the bit's head to maintains a coaxial push through the drilled piece without the need of a centered location. The edge points are inscribing the holes outer edge while the interior cutting edges mill the material inside of the perimeter. This is lot of work. You have to create the jig, buy the forstner bit, and have drill press. The reamer is easier. I'll be honest, this was a little scary for me. But it all went smoothly. The reamer worked perfectly. I used a 12 point socket to turn the reamer. Before you purchase anything, try to get the exact hole dimensions. I would actually contact Michell Engineering. Mind you I did this a long time ago with the collar and ring that was previously suggested. Michell could may have recommendations on how enlarge the hole. I used the reamer. They may have other ideas. Or maybe there is different solution. These collars aren't really designed for Rega turntables. They're designed for Michell decks that have tonearm holes specifically bored to use the VTA adjusting collar.
I marked the plinth with a circle centered on the existing hole and used a Dremel tool to very slowly remove the material inside the circle until it fit snugly. I’m not sure that was the best method in hindsight, although it sounded the same before/after to me.
And if I try to make the operation, Wich height will be fine 2mm,3mm. Ah OK, I'll make the prove by ear. Thanks for help.
I thought about doing this. But I didn't trust myself with a Dremel unless I limited myself to sanding barrels. I decide to just buy the reamer because I'd have had to sand the entire cylinder of the existing hole. Besides that I wasn't sure how big the hole was supposed to be. What I'm stating is that I wasn't sure how tight to collar was supposed to be. The reamer is adjustable, so I got it close to where I wanted. And if I need to open it up, you make a quick adjustment to the tool and make another run. The reamer is kind of expensive, but peace of mind was important to me. I was cutting hole in P3. I actually nailed it on the first run. I borrowed a digital caliper from work to set up the reamer diameter. I didn't need the calipers, but, I really didn't want to oversize that hole. I'm a manufacturing engineer, so, I preach to my operators to come to me if they need a tool to do a specific job. So there also would have been a bit of hypocrisy if I'd used one tool when I knew there was more suitable tool for the job. I'd actually have offered to donate my reamer to the OP (I don't need it anymore), but, with Covid-19 and the fact that he's in Spain, this isn't an option I'm willing to explore.
I did limit myself to sanding barrels and used the Michell base itself to draw the circle. It took me two tries since it didn't appear properly centered the first time. I removed bit by bit with the sanding barrel, then kept checking the base until it just fit. My engineering degree goes largely unused, so it's not surprising a practicing engineer came up with a better method!
