Strictly for fans of Audio Note UK (all things Audio Note UK) PART TWO

Hi All,
I know many here had positive experience using Isoacoustics Gaia II feet for AN-Es, but am curious if any have tried/ using Kepler feet from Divine Acoustics (Kepler – Divine Acoustics) specifically under speakers.
Thanks

 

Never heard Kepler feet, but they're another option among a few, including Revopods.

My experience with Gaia footers and Townshend speaker podiums under AN-E stands suggests more similarities than differences, and the differences are minimal to my ears.

The take-away from my perspective is Gaia footers offer the best price-to-performance ratio. That said, many audiophiles find an extra 5% in performance worth the price delta.

 

Thank you. In my more sane moments, that's me as well

 

Before I buy the Billi integrated which I would just be using as a Preamp, is there an audio note I could pick up used for less than two grand that sounds great?

 

Many thanks - indeed Gaia seems to be more value for money!

 

The Gaia applied to speaker stands produced an extraordinary outcome versus its cost imo. Easily the most cost effective measure to improve sound quality that I have ever experienced.

 

Best cost effective measure, for me, has been speaker placement. Basic near-wall & corner placement. Then, fine tuned with a laser guide (angle and height).

In my room, it produced the most profound results.

 

I was asked by someone to provide my step-by-step process for using a laser level to position AN-E loudspeakers, so I'm posting it here.

This was a stream-of-consciousness creation, and I haven't spent a great deal of time editing the instructions, so there might be an omission or two, and the syntax might be wonky. Feel free to ask questions.

Anyone else who uses a laser level to position AN-E speakers, please feel free to offer suggestions.

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Laser AN-E positioning presupposes proper corner positioning and toe-in of the AN-E speakers so the resulting sound is optimized as much as possible. Laser positioning will fine tune the image.

Tools required:

Self-leveling Laser Level
Blutak
Measuring tape
T-square (or other right angle straight edge)
Microphone stand or tall chair or similar
6” square white paper
Sharpie pen
Scotch tape
Blue painter’s tape
Bubble level
Herbie’s Decoupling Gliders (optional)
Furniture sliders (optional). Available on Amazon or in "Big Box" hardware stores. Squares of cotton t-shirt can also be used.
Air Shim air bladders (optional). Available on Amazon


1) Determine the distance from the listening position (ears) where the speakers’ axis will cross. Presumably, this has already been decided in the original positioning, but if not, now is the time. Audio Note generally recommends 1 meter in front of the listening position as a starting point. If this distance hasn’t yet been locked in, then now is the time. To easily adjust toe-in, I recommend placing the speaker stands on Herbie’s Decoupling Gliders if using spikes, or on furniture gliders if the stands are on other footers like Gaia. The easiest method to raise the stands to install Herbie’s Decouplers or furniture gliders is to use air shim bladders available on Amazon. I find three or four air shims are preferable. Gently inflate them each a little at a time endeavoring to keep the speaker level until there’s enough room to slip the gliders under each spike or footer. Release the air from the shims and remove them.


2) Once speaker axis cross point has been established, then a laser target is created. Use a Sharpie pen to put a pea size black dot in the center of a 6” piece of white paper. Using a microphone stand, or perhaps a tall ladder-back chair, or other device, tape the paper target so the dot is at ear level, and at the distance from the listening position where the speaker axis cross. This target should be on a line perpendicular from the center point between the speaker drivers. Use a measuring tape to determine the center point. Once the target has been positioned, mark the position of the mic stand or chair with blue tape in the event the target needs to be removed and repositioned later.


3) Remove the sliders from under the right speaker by using the air shims to lift the stand, remove the sliders, and settle the speakers back to the floor. Affix the Laser level to the top of the right speaker cabinet using a pea size ball of blutak. The laser needs to be centered on the axis of the drivers. I use a measuring tape to make sure each side of the level is the same distance from the corresponding side of the speaker cabinet. I also use a T-square to be certain the laser is perpendicular to the front of the cabinet. Now, adjust toe angle until the laser hits the target. Try to rotate the speaker using the front-center footer as a fulcrum. I try to use the front footer farthest from the wall. You will find very, very small movements at the speaker result in large movement of the laser at the target. So, finesse is key. Once the laser hits the black target, level the speaker cabinet using a bubble level. You may or may not be able to keep the laser on the black dot. It may be slightly above or below. If you’ve done your best after the speaker is level, and the laser is not on the original black dot, then make a new mark where the laser now hits the target. This new mark will be the target used for the left speaker.


4) Repeat steps 1-3 for the left loudspeaker.

 

I use a jig for the AN speaker installations which comprises a jig sized to match the width of the speakers with the laser mounted exactly in the middle and at 90 degrees to the front baffle. That sits on the top of the speaker across the front so the laser is directly above the tweeter and the alignment twisting of the speaker begins. Generally I level the stands first and can in fact use the jig to do the basic alignment on those stands relative to the 1 mtr in front of the listening position if the floor area in front is clear. Once aligned, leveled and positioned close to the wall, install the speakers on top of the stands and recheck alignment and it should be sweet. It’s a little easier to do this without the speakers attached and the outcome is the same.
The coherency between the 2 speakers is the objective and the improvement is quite remarkable. Given the trouble AN go to matching pairs of drivers to percentages of dB, it’s not unreasonable to do the alignment work and end up at a result that absolutely makes sense.

 

@finn, a jig sure would be handy!

A couple observations from my end...

I envy those who have level floors. My floor is not level, and any change in position of an AN-E stand...even a small rotational shift...messes up the speaker's level. So, in my room leveling must come last in the process.

Also, considering that a tiny position change at the speaker results in a change of several inches or more at the target, I'm unclear how you maintain accuracy by mounting loudspeakers after you have laser-aimed the stands. Would you please describe your process?

 

The way I look at the situation is that you don’t build a skyscraper and then try to level it up.
Client sits comfortably in chair with single malt or chosen poison in hand.
Extend large heavy steel ruler 1 mtr from his best looking ear towards the centre point between speakers and x marks the spot of hidden treasure on the floor as indicated by dangling plumbob attached to heavy ruler.
Go over and help clients wife up off the floor who has collapsed in appalling fits of laughter at seeing her husband get measured up for his HiFi.
Get glass of scotch for her as well.
And so the dance has commenced....
I know the proximity to the walls that I have to play with so those measurements are first up.I use the same vertical component as you for the single vertical elevation 1 mtr out. The jig is positioned on the stand which replicates the dimensions of the chosen speaker and the front edge is likewise the same front edge of the speaker when it’s positioned later.
The Gaia feet are already in play so time to level in both available planes and make final adjustments/corrections using the laser jig.
Move jig to other stand and repeat.
Pour myself a single malt and sip while double checking. Once happy, apply yellow blutak, place speaker carefully in position , align with front edge of the stand, place jig on top of speakers to verify still in alignment with vertical, smile and put some music on after connecting up and double checking.
Pour a larger scotch, my work is done.
The floor is the floor, as long as the stands are level then the vertical axis will be the same for both speakers. It’s obviously possible to have horizontal variance in floor level and again, that can be addressed by using the laser level from the listening position and using a horizontal beam to highlight that difference, it’s straightforward to do and make adjustments before the speakers are finally placed.
When set up like this, the image presents as hanging in space between the speakers and provides height and width but more impressive is the sense of depth perspective, something most systems struggle with.
I don’t use anything fancy regarding the laser level and I have found that time spent in accurately setting the jig up has saved a lot of time in the clients home.

 

Although @finn didn’t mention this, his jig can also be used to measure the distance between each speaker and the listener. In my experience, it is critical that the two speakers be exactly the same distance from the listener. Moreover, this can only be determined accurately with a laser measuring tool.

For years I used a tape measure to make sure each speaker was the same distance from the wall behind them. Big mistake! It turns out most rooms that appear to be rectangular are not exact rectangles. In my last two homes, I have had to move one of the speakers further away from the back wall by an inch or two in order to get them exactly the same distance from my listening position. And getting the speakers exactly the same distance makes quite an improvement—imaging snaps into focus and the soundstage is wide and evenly balanced left to right.

In theory you could use a tape measure to check the distance between each speaker and the listening chair, but that’s a false economy. There is too much of a fudge factor with a tape measure. A laser measuring tool is far more precise with no fudge factor at all. And it’s a lot faster as well.

 

Definitely.

Maybe.

Depends.

I offer a contrarian speaker placement point of view recommended in the Sumiko/Iron Chef Method, and on the XLO Test & Burn-In CD wherein speaker distance from back and side walls varies based on listening more than measurements, and results in asymmetrical placement. I once set up a pair of Silverline Sonata III loudspeakers using the Sumiko Method, and the results were fantastic. So...YMMV.

I find what's most effective in my room considering near-wall placement for AN-E loudspeakers is matching distance from front and side walls versus matching distance to the listening position. It's easy to adjust speaker distance from listening position by moving the listening chair an inch or two (or more). Or, sitting forward or back in the chair.

What's ironic is that after dialing in position with laser beams, what ends up sounding truly exceptional is actually the result of "good enough", because we don't listen with our head in a vise.

 

The Single Malt Method! I've heard rumors of this one.

Reminds me of James Thurber's martini quote:
"One martini is all right. Two are too many, and three are not enough."

Once you've placed the speakers carefully on the laser-leveled stands, do you usually find no further adjustment is required?

Or, does the inebriated group not care?

 

In all my years of installing equipment, not once has alcohol been involved. The likelihood of damage and the ensuing pain is obvious. The need to educate clients on usage requires them to be in an unaltered state as well.
Australian’s as a characteristic, have a laconic sense of humour and in a social context, enjoy the elaboration of situations and storytelling as an amusement, both for themselves and the generally unsuspecting or unknowing other party. It’s used as a form of engagement and an opportunity to disarm and invite the other parties into a conversation.
I’ll be more direct with my replies in future.

 

Bubble bursted. Rats.

In the USA, it's called riffing. Someone starts and others riff on it.

I'm gonna go pour a double.

Cheers.

 

It’s just past 8 in the morning and I’m just making coffee and about to head off and install a custom wall bracket For a TT2 deluxe so enjoy your evenings entertainment. If it all goes well, by the time you wake up, there will be some pictures up on Facebook showing my efforts while you slumbered.

 

Being that my an-e’s cannot be an equal distance from side walls, could a barrier that’s speaker high be used on the outside of each speaker? Thus creating a wall that’s speaker high.

 

Absolutely! Just needs to be a hard surface (versus an absorption or diffusion panel).

 

Thanks for the reply Gjo. Great news. How far past the speaker would be acceptable do you think?

 

Finn in my professional capacity I sell wine to the Embassy of Australia in Washington DC needless to say my lips are sealed.

 

That's a great question.

Maybe a mathematician can offer an accurate answer, but I would think 2 feet as a start, but shy of the first reflection point (which can be determined by having a friend place a mirror on the side wall while you're in the listening chair and marking the wall where you see the speaker reflected in the mirror).

 

Is that an unusually large account? Responsible for an outsized portion of your income?

No idea why I would ask this. Just free associating after my double scotch.

I know. Lips sealed....

 

Whilst Australia has a well known drinking culture, it’s quite different from other countries we have visited and likewise, a different sense of the rational behind alcohol consumption.
Your sales to the Embassy would be healthy but given the propensity for Australian’s to like to entertain and being generous hosts, it is sort of understandable.

 

Can anyone had a chance to compare the same AN-E (or J) speakers with and without high gloss finish? Is there any substantial difference in sound reproduction or it's just a look? Thanks.