I'd surely remove the switched tonearm outputs and install some nice connectors while you have it apart, but just me, I'm always messing stuff up. I'm sure it will be a blast, regardless, give us a beauty shot when it's back together!
My newly acquired Rega RP10 on Project Ground IT-E base with matching white achromat IMG_9420 by Timbo21, on Flickr
I have the most exotic, difficult-to-find, off-the-wall expensive and esoteric deck you'll ever see in this (or any other) lifetime...and so many are envious of this acquisition, it absolutely defies logic. Ladies and gentlemen (I'm assuming more gentlemen on this site)...I give you: (It's not actually a genuine pic of MY table but I was just havin' some fun.)
it's back together! i have to find some interconnects in my stash and mount the cart, after that it's time to take it for a test drive
I added another one to my stable - a Technics SL-1401 from 1978. I've been looking for one of these for a while (I personally think it's one of the best looking tables Technics made) and when one popped up on my local craigslist less than 4 miles from my office, I couldn't resit. I have completely gone through it, cleaned and lubed everything and its working like new, and looking pretty nice, too.
It did clean up nicely. The dust cover has some issues, but I prefer to run my tables with the lids off. Like my Harman Kardon T60, the dust cover on the SL-1401 easily lifts off. So, off when playing, on when idle.
The new SL-1500C seems to pay homage to the design style of the SL-1401, but ugh, those buttons: Whoever designed them must have slept through the lecture on design consistency in their Industrial Design 101 class. A circle, a huge square and two skinny little rectangles. I also think that functionally, the start/stop button belongs on the right side of the table, near the tonearm and cueing lever.
Why should it be on that side? I would think limiting interactions near the tonearm/cartridge is better, since it cuts down on accidents. It would be just one more thing to get in the way. This design is pretty much how all Technics direct drive tables have always been.
It's a semi automatic table. You still need to raise and lower the tonearm and place the stylus over the lead in grooves. For me, this is both a more intuitive and more convenient location for the start/stop button. It is definitely not the way Technics direct drive tables have always been. The SL-1300, SL-1400, SL-1500, SL-1600, SL-1700, SL-1800, SL-1900, SL-2000, and many more, all have the start/stop control on the right side of the table. The one conspicuously absent from that list is the SL-1200, a table that was designed for DJ use. Since the new SL-1500C is not intended for DJ use, it would have been more historically consistent to place the start/stop button on the right.
The SL-1200 was originally designed for home use and later adopted by DJs. The SP10 also has the start/stop on the left side. So I guess I should have said the upper level Technics all had the button on the left.
I've never met two designers (of any sort) that can agree on much of anything, which is evidence enough that it all pretty much boils down to taste. BUT, the power button should be on the left, where it won't be accidentally bumped during use.
Thorens TD-150 Mk I + SME3009 + Shure V15 type III / Denon DL301 Mk2 Thorens TD-126 Mk II + Infinity Black Widow + Ortofon MC20 Thorens TD-121 + SME3009 + Shure V15 type IV (walnut plinth under construction; I'll post a photo when I finish it this weekend.)
I am a Thorens/SME/Shure big fan too! Enjoy your beautiful TTs, they are all gorgeous. Also, the Black Widow is a classic on 125s and 126s.
Very cool! I have the same table with the same platter, but with with a newer JMW 12.6 arm and a second arm wand for my mono cartridge. I curious in what ways you found the aluminum platter better. I've been considering changing my black acrylic platter to aluminum but I'm not sure I want to mess with the sound I have now. What's that ring clamp you're using? It does not look like the VPI.
Actually I decided to keep the acrylic platter. Initially, I thought the aluminum platter did a better job with tightening the bass (I think it did) and render some details with better focus, and a few other things I'm not remembering at the moment, but it also did some things I didn't like after several listenings. It seemed to congest all the sound and gave a funny, trebly sheen to the sound, which someone suggested was ringing. When I switched back to the acrylic, I found that it was much more musical and didn't have any of those negatives associated with the aluminum. What one person told me was there is some synergy associated with specific tables and platters. VPI has put lead sheets in tables and platters to experiment with the various types of reproduction and so my guess is the negatives I discovered with my old TNT Jr. and the aluminum was dealt with on the Classic. I never heard any of those unpleasant things on my Classic. So my advice is don't mess up with the sound you have now, unless you have the opportunity to try out an aluminum platter before you buy. Note the aluminum platter is thicker than the acrylic you have now...can't remember how much but it's enough that you will have to readjust arm height. Finally got a second arm for mono myself. Tired of remounting. Takes me forever.
