The pros and cons of moving magnet vs. moving coil carts

As Chris said, you solder a resistor into an RCA "plug" (no wire comes out of it) and that way you just swap in the RCA plugs into the Y-connectors and experiment hearing different resistor values. You're not actively swapping the resistors themselves per se.

The general rule is this: load it down and listen. Sounds OK? Swap out the RCA plugs and load it down some more. Sounds OK? Swap out the RCA plugs and load it down some more. Keep going until "all of a sudden" it sounds way too dark; then the last value that sounded good is your target value.

Google some of this, the general gist is out there, along with pictures.

Once you arrive at a target resistor value, you can either leave the RCA Y-cables in the system or make a custom RCA jack that has the resistor in it.

To the person above regarding the Dane resistors, if they are available online can you provide a link?

And can anyone provide some recommended resistor values to have on hand, assuming a standard 47k phono input? BONUS POINTS for recommending resistor values to try assuming not a 47k phono input, i.e. say the 1Mohm input of an audio interface (so that the added resistor becomes essentially the total load seen.)

I need to do this project as well.

I want the thing at the end of this page made: http://beavishifi.com/articles/Cartidge-Loading/ I can't quite get my head around how to wire it up with a DIP switch---that would enable switching in different values on the fly.

I know of one commercial product, the DB Systems DBP-6MC, about $50 or less for the kit with several resistors as well as a blank so that you can use a custom value. But you can make it, and with better resistors, for less I think.

I want the correct one, I don't want to guess where the sweet spot is.

If it's not already been made clear, that's like asking which is the one and true correct speaker you should buy. Fortunately, after you lash up the Y-cables for testing, arriving at a good resistor value through listening should be easy, not "guesswork."

 

My cartridge history is as follows:

- Pro-Ject Debut III w/ Ortofon OM5E, replaced with Audio-Technica AT440MLa
- Rega P3 w/ AT440MLa, followed by a used Dynavector 10x4, followed by an Ortofon 2M Bronze, followed by Denon DL-160

The transition from the AT440MLa to the Dynavector definitely showed me what I'd been missing from my records: that sweet, luscious midrange where the music really lives. Unfortunately the suspension started to give on it, causing serious tracking issues. I gave in to the convenience of a replaceable/upgradeable stylus and bought an Ortofon 2M Bronze, but I quickly grew tired of what I heard as an overly analytical sound. When I came across an awesome deal on a NOS Denon DL-160, I jumped on it. So far, I'm still thrilled by it.

The biggest differences in sound I've noticed between the MM and high-output MC carts I've used are the transient response and midrange. Say a bassist plucks a note in a particularly staccato fashion, that sort of thing seems to come through more with the Denon than it ever did with the MM's. I heard those things, but I feel them more now. The midrange and overall tonality are also more "right" to me, making more types of music sound better. The Ortofon always told me how poorly recorded some of my favorite albums really were, while the Denon reminds me why I love them in the first place. I find great joy in gleefully re-discovering my entire music collection. Just the other day I listened to the Classic 200g Zeppelin I and it rocked my entire existence. The relentless double kick drum of "Good Times Bad Times" almost gave me whiplash. This may fly in the face of neutrality, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

The only caveat I've experienced with the Denon is ever-so-slightly inferior inner-groove tracking to the AT440MLa and 2M Bronze. But while those two are very tough to beat in that department, their tonality pales in comparison to the Denon. I plan on re-tipping with a superior stylus when the time comes, so I'm not worried.

As always, the phono stage and related equipment are essential when considering the sound qualities of a cartridge. My roommate's old system was a solid state powerhouse with a preference for nothing, so the differences were immediately noticeable. Now that I live with my girlfriend and use a smaller, more vintage setup, the sound is even more warm and silky while still retaining all of that wonderfully rhythmic drive and gusto.

 

phallumontis' description of the way the DL-160 sounds is 100% accurate. I've not had any IGD problems with it though.

 

The DL-160 sounds even better when loaded down to 1k-8k.

 

The first thing you need to look at to get the best sounding cart for your TT is tonearm/cartridge compatibility. If you have a low mass tonearm 10 grams or below the best match will be a high output cartridge. In terms of MC something like the Sumiko Blue Point 2. A Rega RB250 would be considered low mass. If you have a medium to high mass tonearm (11-25gm medium above 25gm high) low output carts are the best match. If you think in terms of a cars suspension the springs in a high output cart are more flexible thus it will work well in a lighter vehicle. Put it in a heavier vehicle or tonearm and the ride bottoms out. With a tighter suspension and low mass arm you'll get a stiffer harder ride. In the case it will result in less detail and possible jumping in the grooves. So I would first check what type of tonearm you have then make your choices from there.

 

Scroll down to the middle of the page to Type RN Series

 

Thanks! Am I right in that even the 1/8W rating would be robust enough for these low level signals, or should we spring for some 1/4W or 1/2W?

 

Why do people keep lumping Grados into the MM camp? They are not moving magnet. They are moving iron. Not the same thing. Anyways, its not a simple thing to say that MM or MC or MI is better, there are pros and cons for each. I've been listening to records for over 30 years and have tried a few cartridges - let me think....

Garrott P77 MM - cheap and cheerful, excellent for the price
Shure V15V MM- analytical but a bit cold
Grado platinum - similar price to Shure - not as accurate as Shure but I prefer the sound of the Grado any old day
Grado Sonato MI - a step up from the Platinum, glorious mid range, lots of soul
AT OC9 MC- cold and hard sounding. A good reputation, but I would avoid.
Sumiko Blue Point Special high out MC - neither fish nor flesh - nice sounding but not the best of both worlds as it pretends to be
Monster Alpha MC - phenomenal cartridge - rare, and one of the best there is
ZYX R100 MC - very competent, not flaws that stand out, but not the best in the ZYX range
Amber Tribute (OEM Grado Signature) MI - excellent cartridge, could live happily with this forever
Sonic Purity Ayame (OEM ZYX Universe) MC - Compares very well to Monster Alpha. Love the nude body.
WIN Strain gauge - the best of the lot. Love it to pieces. I've had this for about 6 months, and can't get enough of it.

So in summary - I've had excellent MCs and mediocre MCs. All the MI cartridges have been excellent (I highly recommend Grado). The best MM I've listened to has been merely very good. So, if I had a limited budget, and didn't want to get an expensive MC head amp or transformer - then go for a Grado. If you have got some spare funds go for a strain gauge (I bough mine cheap, and saved money by building my own step up device). If you are somewhere in the middle - then try a good MC. It's all horses for courses.

And of course - whatever cartridge you get - it will sound better with a valve phono stage.

 

One thing not mentioned with transformers is that since the low output MC is a very low impedance device it can actually drive a long wire to the transformer, meaning that the transformer belongs at the phono stage and not at the turntable. It also means RCA interconnects are a bad way to connect the MC cart (yeah, saves letters, you know what I mean) to the xfmr.

Perhaps someday they'll build preamps with sockets for transformers and a better connector setup.

 

Dissipation is in the microwatts, but, larger resistors are mechanically more stable and may be quieter. Surface mount would actually be best. It's not that hard to work with surface mount, and the parts are very cheap.

 

You could always wire up a pot or use a resistor substitution box. You can still find them cheap at hamfests or on eBay.

 

Absolutely; In fact the RN series 1/8th watt are nearly the size of an average 1/4 watt resistor.

 

If I go this route, the Ortofon sounds like what I want. I do not want the cart to make everything sound good.

 

Maybe 0805 will not be too hard for a home DIY'er to work with but why? I have never met a SMD resistor quieter than a Dale RN or Caddock MK, and those are much easier to work with in an average home DIY setup.

 

sounds like you're trying very hard to convince yourself that MM carts are the only option for you. cos that's some bizarre logic!

if you don't wanna spend some dollars to find out.... then fair enough...but c'mon!